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post #211 of 289 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 11:46 AM
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Yup that's the short nose version. Post 2000 doesn't guarantee short nosed though, it seemed SN95s and Panthers were the only platforms that used the short nose water pumps, and even then it varies. Trucks/explorers as well as the 05+ mustangs used the long water pumps
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post #212 of 289 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Yup that's the short nose version. Post 2000 doesn't guarantee short nosed though, it seemed SN95s and Panthers were the only platforms that used the short nose water pumps, and even then it varies. Trucks/explorers as well as the 05+ mustangs used the long water pumps
Thanks, I haven't gotten the fan clutch off the Explorer motor to see what it's got yet.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #213 of 289 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 11:51 AM
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It's for sure long if it's got a clutch fan, those have threads at the end
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post #214 of 289 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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It's for sure long if it's got a clutch fan, those have threads at the end
Yeah, that's what I figured. My guess is, with the pulley being midpoint on the unit, the only reason for the "long" one is to hold onto the clutch fan? I should be able to line everything up with a "short" model right?

I'll test fit it with my shorty before I order.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #215 of 289 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 12:09 PM
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The long one was the original design going back to the earliest modular engines, which were originally used with clutch fans (Town Car/Crown Vic/Grand Marquis), the MN12s were next to use the modular and used the same long pump but without the protruding threads, next the Mustang and then trucks started using it and the waters started to muddy as to why the short nose versions came to existence. The only car that really needed the short pump for clearance was the 03-04 Cobra due to the secondary belt drive.

The only thing you need to use one or the other is the corresponding pulley, so if you keep what you had use a short pump, find one from a Cobra which should be closed vane
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post #216 of 289 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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The long one was the original design going back to the earliest modular engines, which were originally used with clutch fans (Town Car/Crown Vic/Grand Marquis), the MN12s were next to use the modular and used the same long pump but without the protruding threads, next the Mustang and then trucks started using it and the waters started to muddy as to why the short nose versions came to existence. The only car that really needed the short pump for clearance was the 03-04 Cobra due to the secondary belt drive.

The only thing you need to use one or the other is the corresponding pulley, so if you keep what you had use a short pump, find one from a Cobra which should be closed vane
This one?
More Information for MOTORCRAFT PW464

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2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #217 of 289 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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And Jordan tells me that the heads are getting the finishing touches now.
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97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #218 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-01-2016, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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My heads are here! My heads are here! My heads are here! My heads are here! My heads are here!

Not that I'm excited or anything.

I'll be building the motor this weekend. Will have all the gaskets, sensors, pump, etc delivered by Saturday

Did I mention I'm excited?


Accufab 75mm Upper intake elbow and Accufab 75mm Throttle body


The StockMod heads, with S2 cams, TFS adjustable gears...

I may *cough cough* be sick tomorrow...
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97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.

Last edited by Woodman; 09-01-2016 at 07:48 PM.
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post #219 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, getting things together. Have the oil pump installed, pre-filled with assembly lube. Cleaning all the gasket surfaces and going to swap my original front cover on because I don't want to rewire it for COP right now.

Headers are going on, and it is pretty obvious I will need to remove the steering shaft. Do I need to drop the wheel from inside the car to do that, or is there an easier way?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #220 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 08:31 PM
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Good job on priming the pump. A lot of people forget to do that.

Just disconnect the shaft at the rag joint and slide it up/collapse it. No need to touch anything inside the car.
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post #221 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Good job on priming the pump. A lot of people forget to do that.

Just disconnect the shaft at the rag joint and slide it up/collapse it. No need to touch anything inside the car.
Thanks, my reading retention is pretty good, I think you guys said it three or four times, it stuck!

Thanks also about the rag joint, didn't realize I could do that.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #222 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, someone please help me out.

My heads came from MHS degreed and ready to bolt on. The dot on the cam sprockets is at 11 for the passenger side (labeled RIGHT, using the driver's perspecive I presume) and at 1 oclock for the driver side head. I have my engine at TDC, pistons 1 and 6 are currently at (or very near) tdc.

It's a stock rotating assembly for a 2003 Explorer, dished pistons. When I go to put the heads on, I see the intake valve for piston 6 are partially open, which sets off klaxon alarms in my head as my brain screams DON'T YOU DARE BEND THOSE VALVES!

I can go get my calipers from my reloading set, and see if the dish is sufficient so that there isn't PTV or am I just freaking out a little too much.

I know the firing order is 1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8, so does that mean 6 is starting intake stroke as 1 is sparking?

Pics...

With engine at TDC, and this head installed on driver side, piston 6 is at TDC (or near it) and intake valve is open on cyl 6.

I see exhaust is open on 5 as well.


Dot is at 6oclock, I did put timing cover on to verify position.

Original crank gear

The new TFS adjustable crank gears, marked for installation


So the dot is lableled 110*, while the other cog is labeled 0, I am supposed to use the dot for timing, right? Cams are 110* intake centerline, one was correct, the other is 112* according to the cam card.

What does A2 mean?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #223 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I dug through my MN12 bible, and I see I need the keyway at 9:00, so I'll do that tomorrow.

I'm assuming I line the cams up on the red dots, and the red bracket on the gears goes on the keyway, right?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #224 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 11:06 PM
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9 o Clock(and 3)is the "neutral" position, where no piston is at TDC and no PTV can accidentally occur, even if a valve is fully open. When I do my timing I do it at TDC with all of the followers out and line up the dots, at TDC the(stock) crank sprocket dot is pointing directly down, at 12, then once it's all lined up I'll rotate it to 3 or 9 and pop in the lash adjusters with a screwdriver on whatever valve is on base circle. That's me though, I know some dislike that method. Key is to bench bleed the lash adjusters first!

If I were to guess A2 = Advance 2*

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post #225 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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9 o Clock(and 3)is the "neutral" position, where no piston is at TDC and no PTV can accidentally occur, even if a valve is fully open. When I do my timing I do it at TDC with all of the followers out and line up the dots, at TDC the(stock) crank sprocket dot is pointing directly down, at 12, then once it's all lined up I'll rotate it to 3 or 9 and pop in the lash adjusters with a screwdriver on whatever valve is on base circle. That's me though, I know some dislike that method. Key is to bench bleed the lash adjusters first!

If I were to guess A2 = Advance 2*
Isn't dot down 6 oclock?

I don't want to take the heads apart, lash adjusters out, etc, as it's a little more out of my comfort zone, but I did read up on it in the MN12 bible, I put heads on with chains off with the keyway at 9 oclock, then rotate it so that it's TDC, shouldn't get any PTV due to the dish, attach chains, tensioners, guides (not in that order), and it's set, right?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #226 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 11:59 PM
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Smartass

Don't rotate the crank to TDC with the heads on there and assembled, a valve still can hit a piston, dish makes no difference for PTV clearance since the lip is still directly under the valves.

My method I do since I do my timing on an an assembled long lock usually, In your case I'd install 1 head, time it, and move onto the next. Start with the driver side, which convienently enough looks like the sprocket dot is about at the TDC point with the crank dot at 6, take a glance at the valves and piston positions to be safe, so install that head first then install the chain aligning the dots and release the tensioner. The passenger side head looks like it's a few degrees before the TDC point so I'd install that head with the crank at the 9 o clock position, which may very well be where it's at, and line the chain up to the dots there, if the chain doesn't line up rotate the CAM until it is - at 9 o clock you could rotate it 360* without a valve kissing a piston.

What the hell is the MN12 bible? Lol

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post #227 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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The MN12 "bible" is the factory manual and EVTM in pdf format. It's nice to have, but unfortunately isn't searchable, it's just a graphic PDF file. So the details are in there, but you gotta DIG.

So I'll try to set it up one at a time. The driver side head is the one that's concerning me though, as it's the one with the valves open on cyl #6, and number 6 is at TDC with the dot at 6oclock.

I'll back it off to the keyway at 9 olock, which should be around 20* before TDC, and see how it works. I'll wait till my friend can come help me so we can get two sets of eyes on it. I don't want to make an expensive mistake.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #228 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 12:58 AM
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Ah I was thinking it was like the notorious MN12 hotline LOL

The factory service procedure is different than what either of us are talking about though, the manual specifies installation at TDC using a couple OTC tools to hold the crank as well as the cams solid in place. THEN specifies installation of the cam sprockets at the same time with the chains, which is totally unnecessary on a 2V. There's more than one way to skin a cat, and Ford's same shitty engineers who greenlighted our oil filter location came up with these stupid procedures as well. I first learned of the 9 o Clock trick with these motors from Nick several years ago, I learned mine from a Ford training class I took. I use the service manual for reference diagrams, torque specs and sequence, as well as occasional diagnosis mostly.

Cylinder 6 would be on on the cusp of it's intake stroke when 1 is on power, the intake valve would have started opening while the exhaust was closing and the piston was still traveling upward to TDC, so at TDC it should be noticeably open like that but not all the way open, it's just a matter of careful degreeing that ensures PTV clearance (hence why you can't advance past a certain point without notching the Pistons).
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post #229 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Ah I was thinking it was like the notorious MN12 hotline LOL

The factory service procedure is different than what either of us are talking about though, the manual specifies installation at TDC using a couple OTC tools to hold the crank as well as the cams solid in place. THEN specifies installation of the cam sprockets at the same time with the chains, which is totally unnecessary on a 2V. There's more than one way to skin a cat, and Ford's same shitty engineers who greenlighted our oil filter location came up with these stupid procedures as well. I first learned of the 9 o Clock trick with these motors from Nick several years ago, I learned mine from a Ford training class I took. I use the service manual for reference diagrams, torque specs and sequence, as well as occasional diagnosis mostly.

Cylinder 6 would be on on the cusp of it's intake stroke when 1 is on power, the intake valve would have started opening while the exhaust was closing and the piston was still traveling upward to TDC, so at TDC it should be noticeably open like that but not all the way open, it's just a matter of careful degreeing that ensures PTV clearance (hence why you can't advance past a certain point without notching the Pistons).
MN12 hotline? I don't know that story.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #230 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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So let's talk about metal in the oil pan for a bit...

I can't use the pan off the explorer, it's way too deep, so I need to reuse my pan or buy a new one. I spun a bearing, and chewed up at least two more, so there was quite a bit of metal in the pan.

I've sprayed the crap out of it with brake cleaner, rubbed it with a oiled up rag, ran 5 qts of cheap 30w oil through it, and have 3qt of 5w30 sitting in it right now and there's STILL shiny little flakes of metal in it.

They're VERY small, but I'm nervous. Should i flush it out a couple more times, or will the itty bitty pieces of metal get caught in the filter?

Or should I just pony up for a new pan?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #231 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 12:35 PM
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I don't think the pan is available new from Ford any longer.

Part number here if it helps - F4SZ6675C

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post #232 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 01:34 PM
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Fill it with soapy water and hose it out, THEN do what you did previously.
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post #233 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think the pan is available new from Ford any longer.

Part number here if it helps - F4SZ6675C

Joe
Dorman makes one, but I'd rather use the original.

Thanks XR7, I'll do that.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #234 of 289 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 05:00 PM
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Dawn dishwashing detergent, let soak, rinse with pressure washer.

Bolting it to something helps, lol.

When you're done, add ~cup of thin oil, and look for flakes after shaking it up a bunch.

If you still see flakes, you have to do it again.

Clean the oil out with brake parts cleaner, let it completely dry, and blow it out with an air hose first if you have to repeat the pressure washer rinse.

That's my process with engine parts after a barfing incident.

Never had a problem using that process, the only recycled metal incident I've ever had was a piece of ring I didn't shake out of the exhaust; had some extra on the second teardown.
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Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.

I'm not Human enough to be human; but I'm trying to fit in, and I'm learning to fake it.

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post #235 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Making progress, the heads are on!
Now I just have to time it, should be as easy as connecting the dots.
Yes, my garage is a mess, deal with it.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #236 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 04:21 AM
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Yes, my garage is a mess, deal with it.
As long as you can!

Looking good! the engine that is!

Joe
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It's not a 97 Sport, it just looks like one!

Mass. TCCoAers, Send me your info!

I buy all my Ford parts from 93 lx.

Member of the TCCoA Damage Control Team.

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post #237 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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As long as you can!

Looking good! the engine that is!

Joe
Yeah, storage space in my garage is at a premium. I have two motors in various stages of disassembly, the old seats from my LX that I don't want to put up in the storage attic because I am not sure I've gotten rid of the chipmunk(s) in the garage yet. Add in the collection of boxes I got all the stuff in that most of the stuff is still sitting in, and it takes up a lot of room.

But hey, the heads aren't taking up room anymore!

Once I get the car running and I can pull it out of the garage, I can go through and have it clean again.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #238 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so we're getting to the point I'm dreading most, the timing chains.

I have the keyway at 9:00 on the crankshaft, which should have me at or near 20* before top dead center.

Is it really as simple as connecting the marked links on the chains with the dots on the gears? I know the "inner" one is driver side on the crankshaft, and the "outer" gear is passenger side. I know I can use a wrench on the middle of the camshaft to turn the cam should I need to, and I know in my head the cam turns at 2x the speed of the crank, but piston 6 being on the upstroke while the valves are not quite all the way open has me concerned.

I've got my mechanic friend helping on this stage, everything else is simply mounting everything up, checking torque specs by the book, etc. I just want my "I've never done this before" fears somewhat eased. Should I need to, are there any issues in turning the cams counter-clockwise to align the dots with the chains?

I figure better to ask BEFORE I go that far than after.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #239 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:56 AM
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Cams rotate at HALF the speed of the crank.

Personally, I like installing the followers last so I can freewheel the cams during timing. I line up the dots at TDC and then install the followers at 9 o clock(or 3) under the lobes that are close to the center of base circle
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post #240 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Cams rotate at HALF the speed of the crank.

Personally, I like installing the followers last so I can freewheel the cams during timing. I line up the dots at TDC and then install the followers at 9 o clock(or 3) when the lobes are close to the center of base circle
Yeah, half speed. Ooops.

My heads are pre-assembled. I don't have the tools or the experience to take them apart, but is my plan workable, install with keyway at 9, and connect the dots, moving the cams as needed to achieve this? I can check the timing by rotating the flywheel after the chains are on, right?
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97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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