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post #241 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 11:16 AM
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Yes you can do it that way, the frustrating part of that method is that the cams will "jump" as you turn them, due to the uneven spring pressures, making the whole process a balancing act until you pull the pins from the tensioners.
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post #242 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Yes you can do it that way, the frustrating part of that method is that the cams will "jump" as you turn them, due to the uneven spring pressures, making the whole process a balancing act until you pull the pins from the tensioners.
Thanks, that's what I thought too. It's going to be a two man operation, going to have me on the chains, my friend on the cams.

Thanks for easing my fears somewhat.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #243 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 01:00 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Two things to Id mention:

The chains/sprockets are Freaking Sharp; even the edge of the links can cut you, with enough force.

If you get cut, you will not notice until you see the blood, lol.

I wear at least latex gloves. Mechanics gloves if you can stand them.

Also, An easy guide to any gear system:

larger==slower
largest==slowest
and smallest==fastest.
Ignore the chains and idlers.




I seem to need that as often as "Righty, tighty...", lol.
Which is a lot these days.
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Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #244 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 01:08 PM
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My tip for your friend holding the cam, don't use a ratchet
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post #245 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Two things to Id mention:

The chains/sprockets are Freaking Sharp; even the edge of the links can cut you, with enough force.

If you get cut, you will not notice until you see the blood, lol.

I wear at least latex gloves. Mechanics gloves if you can stand them.

Also, An easy guide to any gear system:

larger==slower
largest==slowest
and smallest==fastest.
Ignore the chains and idlers.




I seem to need that as often as "Righty, tighty...", lol.
Which is a lot these days.
I raced bicycles for a few years during high school and college, I really, really should have known better than what I said.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #246 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
My tip for your friend holding the cam, don't use a ratchet
I was advised long ago (probably by you) NOT to turn the cams by the crank gears, to use the wrench flats on the middle. One big honkin wrench and stable footing (I'll clean the floor before we do it) and we'll be good.

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2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #247 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 03:11 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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The problem with the ratchet is that as soon as Any cam goes "over center" the ratchet will go "click-click-click-click", which leads to violent cursing.

A breaker bar works much better; a breaker bar with a crow's foot on the flats of the cam = priceless.
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Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #248 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
The problem with the ratchet is that as soon as Any cam goes "over center" the ratchet will go "click-click-click-click", which leads to violent cursing.

A breaker bar works much better; a breaker bar with a crow's foot on the flats of the cam = priceless.
Then that is how it will be done.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #249 of 289 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:54 PM
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I can feel for you man. When I was doing my PI cams upgrade, I was nervous AF. The hardest part for me was the driver side chain kept slipping on me and the cam moved forward as a result. You're lucky here and at least have someone helping you. I did it by myself! LOL
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post #250 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I'm shopping for braided stainless AN-10 lines today and I was wondering...

All the pics I've seen of oil relocation kits have the lines coming through the wheelwell, and tied up out of the way of the tire. Why don't we just route the lines on the inside of the engine compartment, and have them enter into the bumper area ahead of the tire/wheelwell like right here...


There's nothing really in the way, it may make installing the lower hose on the radiator a little harder, but I am not seeing any reason not to use this spot. Am I missing something? For point of reference, I have my filter just above and to the left from the perspective of the picture.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #251 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 04:58 PM
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I think the issue is the bend radius on the tubing coming off the OF adapter plate on the engine.

You can't really use a 90 elbow there, that's bad for flow.

A swept 90 at full diameter might be available in an AN fitting; if you can find two that will fit the radius you need to fit the lines inside, I can't see why you couldn't make it fit that way.

IIRC, the filter is the output side of the pump, so you really don't want to squeeze the lines.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.

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post #252 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
I think the issue is the bend radius on the tubing coming off the OF adapter plate on the engine.

You can't really use a 90 elbow there, that's bad for flow.

A swept 90 at full diameter might be available in an AN fitting; if you can find two that will fit the radius you need to fit the lines inside, I can't see why you couldn't make it fit that way.

IIRC, the filter is the output side of the pump, so you really don't want to squeeze the lines.
I was planning on getting 40" long lines so I could loop them instead of pinch them near where they attach. By my measurements, 36" should be more than enough. The bend off the motor shouldn't be any different, instead of routing the hoses out through the gap between the cradle and the sway bar, I just route it further forward, a more direct route even with the extra loop of hose.

I'll test fit it with my old hoses, see what happens.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #253 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 06:49 PM
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when I did my mustang engine I kind of wish I found this site. only after my dad gave me his xr7 is when I found the forum because when I spun one of the mains on the mustang still don't know how. re doing the timing was a pia because no one wanted to chime in on a mustang forum and took a while to get it right. it was missing like a champ. till I seen some things here to help on that engine and now is a beast. yes it is a 2v like the xr7. there is a few things I like to do to the engine like the p.i. heads. the updated 96 intake helps the engine run like a scalded cat though. I did replace the chain guides when it hit 380k because I noticed a slap sound fixed it do to this post. I catched it in time. I heard the slap on start up and shut it off. the biggest pia was taking off the harmonic ballencer. because the bolt head broke but I was still able to take the rest of the stud out. thank you for putting posts up like this because it is a big help on doing the chain guide. on what to expect on a old high mile engine. what I mean there are so many ways to tackle things. thanks
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post #254 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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That wasn't as bad as I thought it would be...


Chains are on, timing is lined up, one step closer! If time permits tomorrow, I'll button it all back up and get the engine cover on. Any tips on the front cover main crank seal and the rear main seal?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #255 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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More progress today...

Have the intake manifold, the throttle body, upper intake, the spark plugs (with antiseize and torqued to 13lb/ft) the fuel injectors (24lb) and fuel rail on. Was going to put the headers on, but I want to do the motor mounts first, and while I have brand new mounts, the driver side one is broken (very floppy) and I can't get it apart. So I need to get an 18mm impact socket to get it apart, and of course I can't find the one I have.

So, this coming week I'll have the motor mounts installed, the headers on, and once I do the front crank seal I'll put the front cover on. the cam covers, and we'll be so much closer.


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97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #256 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I ordered the last of my parts. Other than coolant, oil, a thermostat, and a few pieces of exhaust I have it all on the way. I even ordered a tune from Don Lasota, which brings my question.

I know my car has a Blue Oval Chip on the ECU. What do I have to do to remove that chip? The battery has been out of the car since July, so it's discharged as much as possible by now. Do I just unhook it, pull it on out and figure out where the chip is and pull it off?

Pics would be helpful.



Nevermind, two bolts, one 10mm, one 7mm to get it out, right?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.

Last edited by Woodman; 03-09-2017 at 07:35 PM.
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post #257 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 08:13 PM
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Undo the connector (10mm, right there in your photo). If the EEC is actually up in the bracket and the bracket is bolted in, you'll have to remove the screw in the bottom corner. That said, it looks like it's sitting too low to be bolted in from that photo.

The chip will be installed in the port on the opposite end of the EEC. Remove it and cover the port up.
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post #258 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Undo the connector (10mm, right there in your photo). If the EEC is actually up in the bracket and the bracket is bolted in, you'll have to remove the screw in the bottom corner. That said, it looks like it's sitting too low to be bolted in from that photo.

The chip will be installed in the port on the opposite end of the EEC. Remove it and cover the port up.
Electrical tape? Di-Electric grease?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #259 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 08:40 PM
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A piece of duct tape works.
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post #260 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 11:43 AM
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I know this is going back to May 2016 but when the OP Woodman was getting the explorer engine out of the JY car, would it have been easier if he had a sawzall to cut the rad support/nose off the donor? I seem to recall doing this once when we were breaking down a tbird donor and that made yanking the engine quite a bit easier but my only experience with an explorer was pulling GT40 heads off the top (not the whole block).

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post #261 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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The yard that pulled mine (a 4.6 mind you) left the harness, the AC Compressor, the fan, everything attached. I didn't see any signs that it was in any way difficult to get it out that way, but I did see a load leveler, which seems to make all the difference with these cars.

When I pulled mine out, I did take the fan off, pulled the fan (electric), took off the water pump, etc just to give me more room, but it wasn't strictly necessary as I too have a load leveler.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #262 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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So here's my experience thus far with tune files...

Back in 2011, I bought a tune for my previous Thunderbird from Blue Oval Chips. Basically, I told him what I had, he sent me a file, end of story. Same when I got a tune from him for my 99 Mustang GT in 2012.

So last night, I ordered a tune from Don Lasota. I had an email at 8am this morning with questions about my MAF, that I answered with the help of Traveler since he purchased and installed it. Within two hours, I had a tune file and extensive instructions about how to do the datalogging, the various steps, etc.

So, I am thus far MUCH more impressed with the level of detail behind Lasota's work/tune file than I was with B.O.C. I never had any issues with the B.O.C. tune mind you, but I have a feeling that my file from Lasota will be much more fine tuned at the end of the day.
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97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #263 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 12:43 PM
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Do you feel it will be a dyno like tune?
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'97 Bird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake & PI Cams | Suspension Rebuild

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness

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post #264 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Do you feel it will be a dyno like tune?
I doubt it'll be as spot on as making changes in realtime and being able to monitor them instantly, but I think it'll be worlds better than what I've had before.

My experience with tunes is the two tunes I bought from Blue Oval Chips. Very little interaction with Lon, I'd give a list of my parts, he'd send a file, I'd apply it and I thought that was it. Never said a word about datalogging, sending things in, etc. As I've heard from others, he often took the "easy way" and skipped things.

So, this is a whole new world to me. I'll do the datalogging, follow the instructions Don Lasota gave me, and by the time all is said and done, should have a good all around tune for a "mail order" tune.

There is a dyno day in Minnapolis/St Paul on April 29th, so hopefully I'm ready to go by then. I'd love to see what it makes.
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97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #265 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 04:04 PM
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I'd love to see what yours makes as well! Your engine build is more or less what I'd like mine to be when my time comes for an engine build .

As for the tune itself, there is one thing you can do, but I'm sure you wouldn't because of the added cost, is to get a tune from B.O.C. and another from Don Lasota. Then compare the two on both the butt dyno and on dyno day and see which one nets you the better performance. LOL

'97 Bird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake & PI Cams | Suspension Rebuild

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness

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post #266 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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I'd love to see what yours makes as well! Your engine build is more or less what I'd like mine to be when my time comes for an engine build .

As for the tune itself, there is one thing you can do, but I'm sure you wouldn't because of the added cost, is to get a tune from B.O.C. and another from Don Lasota. Then compare the two on both the butt dyno and on dyno day and see which one nets you the better performance. LOL
I still have the tune file from BOC in my email from 6 or 7 years ago (I'm a digital pack rat), but it's for a completely different engine.

It's not worth it to me to spend the money to do that. My car was running a BOC chip that the previous owner (Traveler) installed and I had no complaints. Had 226rwhp, which equates to approximately 270 at the crank. That was on a PI swapped NPI, 80mm Maf, stock PI heads with a valve job, UD Pulleys, a full 2.5" exhaust with no catalysts and a dual in/out magnaflow, along with mufflers at the ends of the pipes as well. I think I'll cut those off, see how she sounds.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #267 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 05:23 PM
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Us IT guys are pack rats!

And yea, I figured you wouldn't want to go through the trouble of buying a new B.O.C. tune file because of the added cost. I'm just curious how the two different tunes would compare with each other.
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'97 Bird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake & PI Cams | Suspension Rebuild

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness

'00 2dr v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Greddy SP2 CAT-Back | Eibach ProKit springs | Eibach F/R Sway Bars | KYB-GR2 struts
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post #268 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Like I said, I can't complain about either of my BOC tunes, the chip on the GTBird has worked thus far, and the one I applied to my Mustang GT also worked very well.

I just have a feeling this one, being more specifically tuned to the readouts of my engine, will be better.
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97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #269 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 04:30 PM
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I have Don's book, and he uses the process he describes in it to set up your car.

He wants feedback from your datalogs to see if the 'base' program was close, then goes from there.

The big diff between that and a dyno tune is the wideband data.

A tuner will use a wideband to see exactly what your car is doing when, and will tune with that input.

A datalog only sees what the car sees; a wideband sets that relative to the real world.

To tune by mail, as it were, he has to assume your car doesn't have other issues that will affect the response of the car's systems; with a wideband looking at the results, you know there are issues that can't be tuned around.

I wouldn't try to use my prp without having a wideband; a bad sensor could cause errors that would cause a tune to eat an engine in a heartbeat.

Pretty much as soon as you hit wot, lol.

The Best Thing would be to catch Don at one of the tune sessions he does in different places, and pay him to dyno tune your car.

Jerry W. is the man, but hard to find...
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Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #270 of 289 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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I have Don's book, and he uses the process he describes in it to set up your car.

He wants feedback from your datalogs to see if the 'base' program was close, then goes from there.

The big diff between that and a dyno tune is the wideband data.

A tuner will use a wideband to see exactly what your car is doing when, and will tune with that input.

A datalog only sees what the car sees; a wideband sets that relative to the real world.

To tune by mail, as it were, he has to assume your car doesn't have other issues that will affect the response of the car's systems; with a wideband looking at the results, you know there are issues that can't be tuned around.

I wouldn't try to use my prp without having a wideband; a bad sensor could cause errors that would cause a tune to eat an engine in a heartbeat.

Pretty much as soon as you hit wot, lol.

The Best Thing would be to catch Don at one of the tune sessions he does in different places, and pay him to dyno tune your car.

Jerry W. is the man, but hard to find...
Well, I was very thorough in that every sensor on the engine is being replaced. I should go ahead and get O2 sensors I guess, then ALL of them will be new, but that'll wait for later as I'm plum out of cash.

I'll get a wideband at some point, not sure if my Torque pro has it or not, I'll have to look into that.
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97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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