Fuel rail line replacement? - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel rail line replacement?

I noticed one of the lines on my fuel rail has a heat spot in it, how hard is it to replace those lines? Just cut them, pull them off and replace them with high pressure rated fuel line?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:55 AM
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You can actually buy fuel rail hose; I did that away back when I did the injectors on Ruby Jean.

Here's one possible supply for it: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-07.../dp/B000E323IA

RwP
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
You can actually buy fuel rail hose; I did that away back when I did the injectors on Ruby Jean.

Here's one possible supply for it: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-07.../dp/B000E323IA

RwP
Thanks!

Does the hose just pull off like a radiator hose would, may need a little work with a pick or something?

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 11:12 AM
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It's on a hose barb, so you need to carefully cut the old line off with a razor blade, there's no pulling it straight off. I found hose made by good year at the local auto parts store with my old grand Marquis rails. Main thing is you don't want a solid hose, the factory hose and the Goodyear hose I used have a harder inner tube inside that the actual fuel flows through - for this reason your stock rails with a heat spot is probably no biggie.

(Not my pic, stolen from google)

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
It's on a hose barb, so you need to carefully cut the old line off with a razor blade, there's no pulling it straight off. I found hose made by good year at the local auto parts store with my old grand Marquis rails. Main thing is you don't want a solid hose, the factory hose and the Goodyear hose I used have a harder inner tube inside that the actual fuel flows through - for this reason your stock rails with a heat spot is probably no biggie.

(Not my pic, stolen from google)

Gotcha, thank you!

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:57 PM
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Just to be safe, I'd recommend using two stainless steel (not cheapie HF) worm gears to hold EACH connection of hose on the barb. Also pressurize the fuel rail (key on ignition off) and inspect very closely for leaks before starting the car up the first time.

The last thing you want is for fuel to be sprayed at 40PSI on top of a hot engine.

There's also two ratings for fuel hose
J30R7 and the more expensive J30R9.
You want the R9 stuff even if it's more expensive because it's designed for the higher pressure of fuel injected systems (not the low pressure of carbed setups).
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Just to be safe, I'd recommend using two stainless steel (not cheapie HF) worm gears to hold EACH connection of hose on the barb. Also pressurize the fuel rail (key on ignition off) and inspect very closely for leaks before starting the car up the first time.

The last thing you want is for fuel to be sprayed at 40PSI on top of a hot engine.

There's also two ratings for fuel hose
J30R7 and the more expensive J30R9.
You want the R9 stuff even if it's more expensive because it's designed for the higher pressure of fuel injected systems (not the low pressure of carbed setups).
Thank you! I bought fuel injection rated hose, and fuel injection rated stainless gears. I will pressurize the system and check for leaks, have to anyway since I put a new fuel filter in today.

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:59 PM
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I used the Gates 180psi rated fuel line on my replacement stuff; I bought it on RA.

It's ~$3 a foot, in 10' lengths, lol.

That's the cheapest place I saw it.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 10:14 AM
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I bought a spool of this on Amazon because I replaced the line from the rail down to the hard line from the filter as well. 225psi rated R14 and I used double fuel injection clamps at each connection.

I have a good bit left if someone needs a couple pieces.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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I already bought the length I need, but thank you!

97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.
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