90mm lmaf plumbing - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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90mm lmaf plumbing

I am in the process of datalogging with don lasota, and he thinks it's possible that the step down to 3.5" right behind my maf is causing some problems with readings. I am considering swapping to a 80mm maf, but I just bought a new lmaf so I kinda want to keep and utilize it. He suggested getting a powerpipe, which appears to be a 4" intake tube. It I don't think there are thunderbird applications.

So, what do all of you do? My old set up of stock airbox to lmaf adapter with 4" plumbing coupler, after the maf I have a 4" to 3.5" plumbing reducer clamped to 3.5" tubing, clamped to the stock 02 explorer intake tube. This setup worked great with my old inject tech chips purchased used, but may be causing me problems with a custom tune.

So, should I suck it up and go with the 80mm, try another tube that y'all suggest, or maybe try to remove the 3.5" tubing and go to 4", stretching the explorer intake tube? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:23 AM
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What intake manifold are you using? And are you running a round throttle body or an oval? If its an oval- than all you need is an 03-04 cobra intake tube. This is what I ran for a brief period before deciding to make my own tube.

If you are using a round throttle body with a 3 1/2 inlet, you could still make your own tube and put the 4" to 3 1/2" reducer right at the throttle body. This would allow the air to flow straight through the MAF for 8-ish inches before being necked down at the motor.
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1995 T-Bird. PI 4.6. Bullitt intake. Big MHS cams. 4,200 Dirty Dogg converter. Kooks headers. Full exhaust. 4" Drive Shaft. 4:10s.
Waiting on a tune.

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII FX2 Sand Dune Machine.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 08:33 AM
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make sure you are using the mesh screen before the maf. Anything that helps straighten airflow for the maf is a good thing. Hell, even one after the maf would be a good thing.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 09:46 AM
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I didn't know that screens were standard with that generation of MAF. I didn't see any provision for it with mine.

1995 T-Bird. PI 4.6. Bullitt intake. Big MHS cams. 4,200 Dirty Dogg converter. Kooks headers. Full exhaust. 4" Drive Shaft. 4:10s.
Waiting on a tune.

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII FX2 Sand Dune Machine.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:37 AM
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The stock airboxes are what have the provision for the screens, the aftermarket cone adapters don't.


Hey Oscar, what are your thoughts on the honeycomb style inserts as an alternative when there's no provision for a screen in this case?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Honestly, I can't remember. My intake tube setup is kinda ridgid so to look into it, I have to remove it from the tb and flip it over. I dont believe I have a screen in there, but I could be wrong.

I think this weekend I'm going to try to stretch the explorer tube to go over 4" tubing, maybe that will help straighten the flow. I have seen mandrel bent 4" kits but I suppose I would need a few couplers. I would also expect lots of interference with things like ac lines.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 11:04 AM
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I've done hours of research on MAFs and air tubes for my Vortech project. Since it will be using a LMAF with a home made "PowerPipe", I will have 4 inch tubing all the way to the SC inlet, which is 4 inch as well. The cone filter will be an AIRAID 4 inch as well. In my research I found that any step up, or step down, hard bend within 6-9 inches of the MAF is going to screw your readings over.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Well, we seem to have came to a solution. I took out the 3.5 tubing that I had right after the maf and flared it by pressing it onto a wheel balance adapter cone in my press lol. The transition after the maf was very smooth. After datalogging with my base tune, the next tune made the car run so nice
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