PI Explorer Engine Swap Article - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

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post #31 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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thanx...i do btw
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post #32 of 132 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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If the 02-05 explorer motor and the 99-04 mustang motor were both out the vehicle they would put out the SAME power. People think the explorer motor is slower than the mustang motor seeing how from the factory the explorer had 235ish horsepower and the mustang had 260. The ONLY reasons why the mustang had more is because of more aggressive ecu tuning and true dual exhaust. The explorers are underpowered ecu wise AND have single restrictive exhaust which has lots of bends. The only reason why its smarter to go with the explorer motor is cuz is about 90lbs+ lighter than an iron 4.6 ie: the mustang motor. The cranks on the explorers are designed after if not related to the lower end cobra blocks. Cobras and explorers are the ONLY 4.6 blocks with 6-bolt main crank caps to handle more abuse. The iron blocks have 4-bolt mains.

So STOP saying the explorer swap isnt a feasable swap!! lol
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post #33 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-09-2007, 05:23 PM
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so i take it i should look into the 4.6 not the 4.0 SOHC? Do the engines from greenleafauto come damn near complete or what are the unlisted items that i would need to get?

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post #34 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-09-2007, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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greenleafauto engines come as complete as it can be minus alternator and starter.
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post #35 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-09-2007, 05:33 PM
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alright thats who ill go with then for the 4.6 lifes good i thought theyd be a little more but hey i like saving money

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post #36 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-09-2007, 06:32 PM
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man, sounds complicated.
i did mine waaay back when. i used a 99 mustang engine (note this was done in 2001 prior to the explorer getting the al block 4.6) so thats why i used what i used.
things to swap over, oil pan, pickup tube, oil filter adapter, oil dipstick tube, coil packs, plugwires, upper intake, tb, exhaust manifolds. youll swap over the motor mounts, but youll need to grind them some to clear the casting on the block.
new things youll need, 6 bolt flexplate, and bolts.

i know im missing somthing, ill update this again.

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post #37 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-09-2007, 07:19 PM
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very good writeup thanks.
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post #38 of 132 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop View Post
If the 02-05 explorer motor and the 99-04 mustang motor were both out the vehicle they would put out the SAME power. People think the explorer motor is slower than the mustang motor seeing how from the factory the explorer had 235ish horsepower and the mustang had 260. The ONLY reasons why the mustang had more is because of more aggressive ecu tuning and true dual exhaust. The explorers are underpowered ecu wise AND have single restrictive exhaust which has lots of bends. The only reason why its smarter to go with the explorer motor is cuz is about 90lbs+ lighter than an iron 4.6 ie: the mustang motor. The cranks on the explorers are designed after if not related to the lower end cobra blocks. Cobras and explorers are the ONLY 4.6 blocks with 6-bolt main crank caps to handle more abuse. The iron blocks have 4-bolt mains.

So STOP saying the explorer swap isnt a feasable swap!! lol
Actually the 4.6 I got out of a Crown Vic Police Interceptor has the 6 bolt mains aswell but it is iron... and you can use the timing cover that is on it.

I just did my second swap with this engine this weekend.
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post #39 of 132 (permalink) Old 03-21-2008, 05:10 PM
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Can it be added that all PI heads are the same. Whether it's from a Mustang, Explorer, Crown Victoria, Mountaineer, or Grand Marquis, they're the same heads? At least, that's what I have been told.

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post #40 of 132 (permalink) Old 03-21-2008, 05:13 PM
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Yes, that can be added. And not only that, but ALL PI heads are the same.. as in there is no right or left. The castings are identical. They don't become "right or left" until the cam, the tensioner, and other bolt on items are added. So they can be swapped right to left easily.


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post #41 of 132 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
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Yes, that can be added. And not only that, but ALL PI heads are the same.. as in there is no right or left. The castings are identical. They don't become "right or left" until the cam, the tensioner, and other bolt on items are added. So they can be swapped right to left easily.
Wow, I would have never guess that at all.

Thanks for all the info, guys. I'll be using this article A LOT throughout the next few weeks

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post #42 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-21-2008, 05:26 PM
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Guys I have a PI intake 24# FIs 75MM BBK, C&L PL that I am going to be putting on in a few weeks I am not upgradeing to a bigger fuel pump at this time, Should I swap fuels rails & Injectors ? Please Dont flame me to bad if I was lame on the search button



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post #43 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-21-2008, 05:32 PM
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if you dont have a tune for the #24's use your stock ones.

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post #44 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-21-2008, 05:33 PM
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Thank you Matt Another small step in getting there !.
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post #45 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-21-2008, 10:17 PM
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Hello ThunderChecken, may i ask what vehicle and what year that intake came from?...reason i ask is because it looks as though it has 2 coolant sensor bosses already drilled on the coolant crossover...i was under the impression that ALL PI intakes only had 1 coolant sensor boss drilled from the factory....just trying to learn all i can before i tear into my PI engine swap!
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post #46 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-21-2008, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzman View Post
Hello ThunderChecken, may i ask what vehicle and what year that intake came from?...reason i ask is because it looks as though it has 2 coolant sensor bosses already drilled on the coolant crossover...i was under the impression that ALL PI intakes only had 1 coolant sensor boss drilled from the factory....just trying to learn all i can before i tear into my PI engine swap!
the explorer had 2 holes from the factory, however the rear heater outlet is plugged, most people drill and tap the crossover or swap it from an npi one.

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post #47 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 09:15 AM
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however the rear heater outlet is plugged

Matt were is this that you are talking about? Looking at my old one in the car there is one hose on the passgers side and my PI on the tpside has a place for it to go like the old one



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post #48 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 09:07 PM
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Guys getting there going to clean up the chrome fuel rails best I can , The injectors are a pit dirty if you ask me . think I should Clean / replace ? I am also putting in new bottom and top radiator hones new waterpump while I am there and my new valve covers





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post #49 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 09:33 PM
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Regarding the thermostat, if your car doesn't have an upgrade chip, stay with the stock thermostat (195º). If the engine computer doesn't know there's a 180º 'stat installed, the fan will continue to turn on at 195º (I think stock was 195º).


And should I not put in my 180 Stat ?
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post #50 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 10:09 PM
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As long as the area where the nozzles spray fuel at the bottom is clean, you'll be fine. The outside doesn't matter.

And regarding the thermostat, I'm confused. Were you quoting something there? In any case, you should not put in a colder thermostat than the car is programmed for.

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post #51 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 10:16 PM
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Thank you chris about the injectors . I found the Tstat part in a tread somewere, Just wondering if that is good or bad i have ever heard that before about a 180
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post #52 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 10:21 PM
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It's not optimal with the factory fan settings and could interfere with closed loop operation. You get maximum benefit from the colder rated t-stat with a tune in conjunction with using colder range spark plugs. You can be a little more aggressive with timing with the engine running cooler.

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post #53 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 10:28 PM
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LoL well crap just orderred one from Jon LOL I will just told on to the 180 for down the road and just get a what 190-195 or so ?
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post #54 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 10:36 PM
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Yup, just run 195* and stock range plugs until you program it for the other stuff. The programming in the computer is done around the engine running at a certain temperature, and using a different thermostat will just interfere with the computer's attempts to control it. Fuel injection is sensitive to these kinds of things unlike older cars.

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post #55 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-22-2008, 10:39 PM
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Thanks again Bud
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post #56 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-23-2008, 04:23 PM
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Hmm Check the pics below just have the new ones laying over the old ones drivers side front X marks the spot ???



I guess the Pass Side looks good



There is a notable difference in the 2


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post #57 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-23-2008, 04:33 PM
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swap the gaskets between heads, the X needs to be sealed

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post #58 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-23-2008, 06:06 PM
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Yep brain was not on
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post #59 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 10:04 PM
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Guys do you agree that I Should replace the water pump being that i have it down this far. I have a new one still in the box with 0-ring. New FRP Blue Hoses on order as well






Last edited by Boston-Bull; 09-24-2008 at 10:15 PM.
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post #60 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 12:56 AM
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Well the water pump really isnt in the way when your doing the intake swap. But the water pump is really easy to change. Does your current pump have alot of miles? If so, I'd do it. The pump isnt expensive, and not hard to change. Easy work.

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