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post #61 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 02:42 AM
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It's only easy to change if it hasn't been "welded" to the block with corrosion. It took a BFH to seperate the water pump from the block on my 4.6L, and the pump cracked in 3 different places during this removal "procedure".

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post #62 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by master486 View Post
It's only easy to change if it hasn't been "welded" to the block with corrosion. It took a BFH to seperate the water pump from the block on my 4.6L, and the pump cracked in 3 different places during this removal "procedure".

i totally second that.....when i was trying to replace mine, i was like W..T...F!!!! this sucker wont budge...broke several of the mounting tabs off...and then i was like F-it....smashed a flat-head between the pump and the block....i knew i wasnt gonna do anything to the block, it being iron and all...and finally it broke loose......but it was worth the piece of mind to have a pretty much new pump in there

if you can find a '02 or newer pump AND pulley out of a parted-out 2V 4.6, then grab it....the longer-shaft pumps from mid-01 and older are, obviously, getting older and older and harder to find in like-new condition...but people are always parting out mustangs, crown vics, grand marquis, towncars, etc, etc
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post #63 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 02:17 PM
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Yep the old pump has 120k on it so i am going to give it a go . Pics Below of Pump have know clue as to make or good or bad .




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post #64 of 132 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 11:38 PM
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Hey guys,
My buddy and I are looking into doing the headswap on my 96 bird. I'm looking at some heads from an 01 GT. Are there any differences in bolt patterns between the two or do I need to check part numbers?

Btw, how much are the 94/95 timing covers going for?
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post #65 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 08:12 PM
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Just a quick question guys ....is it imperative that the intake bolts be torqued to Ford specifications?

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post #66 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 09:13 PM
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it is, i believe its 18ft lbs

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post #67 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 09:15 PM
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Thank you sir !

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post #68 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 09:36 PM
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It's so imperative that I didn't do it with a torque wrench. I used my calibrated torque wrench built into my body. Almost 10k miles, not even the slightest hiccup.

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post #69 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 09:40 PM
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Chris How did you reroute the hose under the Pi intake ? Took me awhile but i think i have it right

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post #70 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-02-2008, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by master486 View Post
It's only easy to change if it hasn't been "welded" to the block with corrosion. It took a BFH to seperate the water pump from the block on my 4.6L, and the pump cracked in 3 different places during this removal "procedure".
When I did my first 4.6 water pump my car had really rusty coolant. It had ruined the heater core and it had corroded half of all the pump impellers away from corrosion. I did have to use a hammer to get it loose. But I just kept tapping it all the way around the pump until it came loose. Its a little bit of a challenge, but I've definitely done worse jobs than that.

1995 Cougar XR7 4.6
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6
1977 Country Squire 460
1985 Capri RS 5.0, 5spd
1997 Thunderbird 4.6
1984 Capri RS 5.0,5spd
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post #71 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-02-2008, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sik97bird View Post
it is, i believe its 18ft lbs
I used an in/lb torque wrench and did them at 20 ft/lbs (well the in/lb equivalent of 20 ft/lbs.) My ft/lb torque wrench barely even clicked set at 20 ft/lbs.


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post #72 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-02-2008, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
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Chris How did you reroute the hose under the Pi intake ? Took me awhile but i think i have it right
I used the actual PI coolant tube. It exits on the opposite side of the intake as the original setup but you can use couplers, or you can just run rubber hose underneath.

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post #73 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-03-2008, 03:41 PM
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She is getting there "Little by Little


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post #74 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-03-2008, 03:49 PM
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You can be done in less than 30 minutes!

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post #75 of 132 (permalink) Old 10-03-2008, 04:05 PM
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The way i am feeling lately I take my sweet time Fell down the stairs in my house last night and cracked my tailbone Owch !!

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post #76 of 132 (permalink) Old 11-02-2008, 08:11 AM
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Well??? Does it live??? WTF do I do with the 3rd coolant sensor I just found on the coolant tube??


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post #77 of 132 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 02:31 PM
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Yep she lives nice She will haul the mail one or 2 or 3 steps closer now Thank you much guys for all the info and help and kind words


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post #78 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 09:26 PM
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getting pi swap done on my 96 thunderbird,i didnt get the 94/95 timing cover,i was told to get longer bolts didnt know bout the timing cover is it true i can use longer bolts or do i need to order that timing cover now

1996 ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L 2V 14.611@98.29
PI Swap(heads/intake)
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post #79 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 03:49 PM
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or is the swap need for the explorer swap components only???

1996 ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L 2V 14.611@98.29
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post #80 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 08:06 PM
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Um. In english, please?
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post #81 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 08:26 PM
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As far as I know, you only need the different front cover for the explorer swap. I did a complete heads/intake PI swap on my car and used the original 97 front cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 96tbirdboi View Post
getting pi swap done on my 96 thunderbird,i didnt get the 94/95 timing cover,i was told to get longer bolts didnt know bout the timing cover is it true i can use longer bolts or do i need to order that timing cover now


1997 Thunderbird Sport
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destined to remain stock

1997 T-Bird GT 4.6
80 MM Mustang GT MAF - P&P'd Mustang GT TB and Intake Plenum - PI Intake manifold - PI Heads
Mark VIII Torque Converter - J-Modded 4R70W transmission - Mark VIII Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 gears
PBR Brake Calipers - Eibach Springs - KYB Shocks
'89 SuperCoupe front and rear sway bars
SCT Chip programmed by Lonnie Doll
255/50/16 Falken Ziex ZE-512's
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post #82 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 11:06 PM
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i've got some questions

so today i just bought a set of pi windsor heads with valve covers spark plugs in them and the pi manifold.

now i've searched and read the pi swap articles.

1.) i want to know if there are any holes different from the romeo heads ie oil holes or coolant holes. im not worried about the valve covers as i got them in the package.

2.) also i read this in the swap tech article but no one mentions it but i have a 97 sport 4.6 will i need the newer "style" dipstick tube? it sasy you do but no one is mentioning it.

3.) can i swap over the aluminum cross over from my old manifold to avoid having to drill and tap a 3/4 hole for the second coolant sensor? i read something about swapping over the coolant crossovers to avoid having to do that but i could have misunderstood it.

4.) will i have to have a tune? i know this increases compression quite a bit to something like 10.5/1. so i assume there will be some detonation but if i run premium can i avoid having to tune it for the heads?

5.) what is the recomended gap for the sparkplugs with the new pi heads?.

6.) is there any special things im missing?

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post #83 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 03:54 PM
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1) No
2) Don't know about windsor heads but definitely not with Romeo
3) Yes
4) Yes. Running premium is a band-aid for the swap and will leave a lot of power on the table.
5) Same as stock
6) No comment

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Last edited by master486; 09-02-2010 at 12:36 AM.
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post #84 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 04:25 PM
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I used my old dipstick with Windsor heads its fine . I agree with everything master486 said .

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60'...... 2.06
1/8th .. 9.194
mph .... 77.13

mods*
PI heads *PI intake*Mark VIII torque converter*Cobra T-loc w\4.10's * Jmod*tranny fluid cooler*P&P stock T/B & plenum*UD pulleys* Dynotech 4in ds*80mm Lightning maf*Xcal2*02 GT intake tube.
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post #85 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 07:27 PM
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sweeeet


i went shopping for head gaskets but i don't know which ones to get summit seems to have really good prices anyone have some suggestions for me.

my other ride is an ambulance!
1997 V8 sport - first car - sold 6/7/10
2006 silver mustang gt premiumcustom made grill, frpp shorty headers, pypes cat back exhaust, hurst billet pro shifter,
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post #86 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 07:42 PM
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Buy the ford head changing kit it includes new gaskets and bolts and dipstick tube all for an affordable price

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #87 of 132 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
Buy the ford head changing kit it includes new gaskets and bolts and dipstick tube all for an affordable price
thanks just looked it up thats not a bad price at all. im going to redo all the gaskets.

my other ride is an ambulance!
1997 V8 sport - first car - sold 6/7/10
2006 silver mustang gt premiumcustom made grill, frpp shorty headers, pypes cat back exhaust, hurst billet pro shifter,
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post #88 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 03:08 PM
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I'm about to undertake the intake swap myself in a couple months, everything I think I have straightened out except the issue regarding the coolant temp. lockout sensor for the SATC. I've been combing through articles I found through Google and here on the forums and all I seem to find is people saying it needs to be addressed - no details or (my favorite) pics. I don't quite understand how or why it needs to be relocated; I can't really see where it screws into on the car with everything in the way. What extra parts do I need to get it "relocated" properly? I suppose I could just find out when I get there, but I prefer to know what I'm getting into before I get into it.

-Brandon
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post #89 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 03:18 PM
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I'm not even using that sensor, but heres the issue if you want to keep it...

Its attached to the old valley heater tube via a fitting, the PI tubes dont have this fitting. So what you do is cut the stock tube 1-1/2" to 2" after the fitting (on the valley side, not the heater core side) flare the end, and run a rubber hose from the PI tube to the flared stock tube.

This will also allow the heater core hose to fit like its supposed to

-Matt
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post #90 of 132 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 03:21 PM
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Hm, I see... basically like replacing the end of the PI tube (which doesn't have the fitting) with the end of the NPI tube - which has the fitting.

-Brandon
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