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post #1 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-02-2007, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Post PI Explorer Engine Swap Article

Time for someone to make it a lot easier to get all the info on the 02-05 explorer swap. just want to jot down what parts I re-used, bought new, modified to make this swap work. I’m not entirely finished so this is my work in progress. i know there’s tons of info on the swap but i feel it is spread out too much on here and making this thread would make the swap a lot easier. i will edit this post as i go, or if someone chimes in with additional info.

Q: What engine should I order?

A: Preferably a 02-03 Explorer/Mountaineer 4.6 Block. 04-05's are ok but use an electronic throttle body and egr so you would have to swap over your tb/plenum/and egr. If you have a 94/95 v8 mn12 you should get a 02-03 block so you don’t have to worry about getting extra parts. if you have a 96+ v8 mn12 then it doesn’t matter what block to get seeing how you can just swap over your parts.

Q: Where should i order my engine from?

A: There are tons of great deals on ebay as far as engines go but sadly those dont come with a warranty and we all know ebay has scammers and thieves on there. Not that theres nothing wrong about ebay, i know numerous of people who have got great motors from there. I on the other hand chose greenleafauto.com. Its a great place to find "complete engines", from the oil pan to the intake plenum plus they come as complete as they can minus the obvious like alternators and a/c compressors. Great thing about greenleaf is that they have warranties on parts and labor if you choose to spend the extra dough. I did spend a pretty penny on my motor but i was given a warranty and carfax report i couldnt resist.

Q: What extra parts do i need if i have a 96+ mn12?

A: You will need a 94/95 v8 front timing cover seeing how one of the stud holes on the 96+ cover wont line up correctly or seal. Any SOHC 4.6L v8 front timing cover made in 94/95 will work as long as the casting number on the top left start with "F3AE".

Q: What extra parts do i need if i have a 94/95 mn12?

A: Basically all top end parts such as 96+ Fuel Rails, 96+ Throttle Cable, 96+ EGR System, 96+ intake tube and pcv lines. You will need all the fuel lines after the fuel filter. To use your cruise control cable you will need to fabricate a small bracket to use the cable on the explorer plenum. I know there might be a couple of more parts or some of them listed here are needed so please add.

Q: What parts do i need to swap over onto the explorer block?

A: Oil Pan, Oil Filter Adapter, Oil Dipstick Tube, Tranny Dipstick tube, Flexpate, Cam Sensor, Valve Covers, Exhaust Manifolds, SparkPlug wires, Ignition Coils and brackets, EGR system *96+ mn12's only*, Motor mounts, Crankshaft Pulley, Water Pump/ and pulley, all front accessories such as the power steering bracket/ coil brackets and pulleys.

Q: What gaskets do i need?

A: 90% of the gaskets i replaced are re-useable but did it anyways so it would be a brand new motor to me. here’s a rundown,
  • 1) Timing Cover Gaskets - There are 3 of these and should be replaced seeing how they can rip when swapping over easily.
  • 2) Oil Pan Gasket - This is re-useable, but i replaced mine anyways and remember to torque it down correctly.
  • 3) Timing Cover Crank Seal - This is the rubber seal that’s in the timing cover that sits around the crankshaft sticking out in front of the block. These are re-useable and i re-used the one on the 95 cover i acquired
  • 4) Oil Filter Adapter Gasket - The Oil filter and lower radiator hose are at a different angle on the 02+ explorer blocks so swap over your adapter. The gasket that sits between the adapter and the block is re-useable. I got a new one anyways seeing how my old one was covered in rtv. Can we say motor was worked on before?
  • 5) Valve Cover Gaskets - These are re-useable but i ripped one trying to swap it over so good thing i ordered them.
  • 6) Intake Manifold Gaskets - My block had less then 17k miles on it so i re-used the explorer gaskets. With higher mileage cars these should be replaced.
  • 7) Torque Convertor Retaining nuts - Aren’t gaskets but are made of a soft metal and should be replaced when doing a motor swap.

Part Numbers from Ford:
  • Front Cover Gasket F1AZ-6020-A
  • Front Cover Gasket F1AZ-6020-B
  • Front Cover Gasket F1AZ-6020-C
  • Front Seal for in the Front Cover F5AZ-6700-A
  • Oil Pan Gasket F4AZ-6710-A
  • Oil Filter Adapter Gasket F6AZ-6840-BA
  • Torque Convertor Nuts *Pack of 4* 378941-S441 or MM-169-H
Tools/Equipment/etc needed or recommended for swap:
  • Impact Gun w/ at least 250ft/lbs of reverse torque
  • Air Compressor strong enough to support air tools
  • Torque Wrench
  • Pulley Removal Tool
  • Ratcheting Wrenches *Makes life 50 times easier*
  • Metric sockets ranging from 8mm-18mm in both impact and regular styles
  • Ratchets/extensions/universals/gasket scraper/pry bars/etc
  • Engine Hoist and chain
  • Engine stand
  • 4 Quarts of Tranny Fluid to fill up torque convertor
  • 5 Quarts Engine Oil
  • Oil Filter
  • 2 Gallons of Coolant and Distilled Water. Distilled water is like 2.39 for 2 gallons at Albertsons
  • Some Power Steering Fluid
Some parts to think about replacing/upgrading while motor is out:
  • Motor Mounts
  • o2 Sensors
  • Torque Covertor
  • Sway Bar
  • Exhaust Manifolds/Long Tube headers
  • U/d Pulleys

Taking care of the temp sensor and rear nipple problem.
On the intake manifold off the 02+ explorer block there are a couple different issues to look at. If you notice the nipple on the back of the intake it is not the same as our mn12’s setup. Also, there are no coolant temp sensors on the aluminum crossover. There is only one temp sensor located on the drivers side cylinder head on the explorer block. The issues are, what do we do to the crossover? What do we do to the manifold? The answers are simple.

For the crossover just remove the nipple on the drivers side and replace it with a temp sensor off your old crossover. It should be the sensor with the centered key slot to allow your stock wiring harness to match up with it. As for the second temp sensor, just use the temp sensor that’s on the drivers side head. Re-use the 02+ wiring harness’ connector to that sensor and solder or splice the wires coming out of that old connector to your second temp sensors wiring on your stock wiring harness.

For the nipple on the back you can either have it drilled and tapped to allow you to attach the hose to the back of the manifold, or you can simply extend the heater hose going to the extra nipple on the passenger side of the aluminum crossover. This is what I did and i will update if there are any issues. here are some pics






If the 02-05 explorer motor and the 99-04 mustang motor were both out the vehicle they would put out the SAME power. People think the explorer motor is slower than the mustang motor seeing how from the factory the explorer had 235ish horsepower and the mustang had 260. The ONLY reasons why the mustang had more is because of more aggressive ecu tuning and true dual exhaust. The explorers are underpowered ecu wise AND have single restrictive exhaust which has lots of bends. The only reason why its smarter to go with the explorer motor is cuz is about 90lbs+ lighter than an iron 4.6 ie: the mustang motor. The cranks on the explorers are designed after if not related to the lower end cobra blocks. Cobras and explorers are the ONLY 4.6 blocks with 6-bolt main crank caps to handle more abuse. The iron blocks have 4-bolt mains.

So STOP saying the explorer swap isnt a feasable swap!! lol

More info to come. Please add/edit any info you can.

~*~*~*~Thanks to 95xBird and timb for answering all my annoying emails and helping me~*~*~*~

-Mike

Last edited by Litning; 07-06-2007 at 11:23 AM.
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post #2 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 12:49 AM
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Good write-up Mike.....its about time someone took the time to write all this down.


BTW: It looks great!!

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post #3 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 12:57 AM
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i just wanna say thank you for takeing your time to write this. 1 day this thred will come to use for me.
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post #4 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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well just think, its not finished

thanx for the remarks guys.
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post #5 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 06:41 PM
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Just curious- why do you have to swap the timing cover?

I ran into a motor swap with a 4.6 where it looked like the cover wouldn't work. Using the tensioner and idler off the new motor with a new belt made it work.
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post #6 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icantdrive55
Just curious- why do you have to swap the timing cover?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop
You will need a 94/95 v8 front timing cover seeing how one of the stud holes on the 96+ cover wont line up correctly or seal.
that is why
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post #7 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 05:22 AM
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nice work Porkchop, been looking for alot of that info myself... My only suggestion thus far is change the name of the thread so when we do a search for it down the road we'll be able to tell find it quickly.

math > pasta
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post #8 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 09:44 AM
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Nothing about HID's ??? wow!
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post #9 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 10:38 AM
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Very good writeup. Informative, if not in need of a little grammatical editing (Sorry, I can't help myself, just one of those things)

The part about the intake manifold and the rear water nipple. If a person has already done the PI Intake swap, couldn't they just transfer that PI intake to the newer Explorer motor?


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post #10 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 11:19 AM
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Nice write up Porkchop.You welcome.I didn't mind your annoying emails at all.I am just happy to help.
And yes you can extend the hose from the back to the front.That is what I did.
Congrats

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post #11 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95xbird
And yes you can extend the hose from the back to the front.That is what I did.
Ditto. It's not the optimal setup because the back cylinders aren't getting the right circulation, but if you aren't pushing the tune too much it works fine.

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post #12 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler
Very good writeup. Informative, if not in need of a little grammatical editing (Sorry, I can't help myself, just one of those things)
where did i mess up? lol as soon as i got the new version of internet explorer when i type every 6th letter/key doesnt get typed in. kinda weird but thanks for the heads up.

alex, i already wrote that article

thanx for all the comments guys, and im glad to hear you CAN extend that hose from the back to the front and be alright, i knew it would be ok
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post #13 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowDragon
Ditto. It's not the optimal setup because the back cylinders aren't getting the right circulation, but if you aren't pushing the tune too much it works fine.
can i get some pics of this setup? just want an idea on where to route the hose if you got any pics.

or anyone else that has that extended hose would like to send me pics it would b appreciated.

-mike
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post #14 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 08:04 PM
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I just ran a hose under the throttle body and to the coolant port.I used a barbed hose connector with worm clamps to make it work.

This is a better shot and you can see the whole hose


Sorry for the bad pics but it is all I had

04 PI swap,SVO Supercharger 8-9 psi,Alcohol injection,39lbs Cobra injectors,XCal2-Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump,4.10 T-Lok,2003 4R70W built to withstand by RobertP,450hp JMOD,3800 circleD stall,trucool 4739 Trans Cooler,Dynotech 3.5 Driveshaft,70mm T/B,SCP Cold Air Intake,90mm LMAF,JBA headers,Magnaflow Midmount,No cats with 3inch piping,Vogtland 1.6inch drop,Cobra R's and xenon body kit.

Its slow, Really.
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post #15 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 10:12 PM
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Well, shoot, there you go! right on. And well written piece of work. Is that all we did Porky?? Shoot didn't feel like that much, I am so happy you had that airgun though! That helps alot!

Ya, its funny, Funny like a Clown.
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post #16 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 11:20 PM
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I picked up a hard plastic 90* turn for heater hose that you clamp over the hose and it allows it to make that sharp of a turn without kinking or ovaling etc.


And here's my hack job of coolant, and two temp sensors...
Hose comes in to a T that is horizontal, straight across (the path water is going to take) is a temp sensor, the water then meets the restriction and heads back towards the engine where it meets a veritcal T, straight across is the other temp sensor and the water then goes down into the crossover. This keeps the sensors in the path of the water instead of possibly just reading heated air. This is better than the setup in the first picture which was just enough to get me home to get both sensors hooked up. Like 95x the hose connection is a threaded barb, and the section connecting the two T's is just a small threaded adapter.

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post #17 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 11:49 PM
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this will come in handy in a few weeks for me...the coolant hose in the front what are you guys using, just a brass t fitting?

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post #18 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 01:30 AM
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Which coolant hose is this you guys are talking about ???

I'll be updating my 95 with the PI heads and Intake manifold soon, with the 96+ parts .. is it possible to re-use the aluminum crossover with 2 sensors from the 96 Intake on the PI intake ? Or better to tap it out, or use a T - Fitting ?
.. also, what if I have no Heater core .. on my current setup, I bypassed the coolant lines at the back of the manifold, I dont really know how the 96+ setup is different.

- Dan
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post #19 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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yea i think im gonna grab 2 90 degree coolant adapters for the crossover and the heater core and run a heater hose all the way. thanx for the pics guys.

sctbird - on the normal 96+ intakes there is a port in the back of the manifold to allow coolant to run to the heater core. if you upgrade to a pi intake there wont be that port on the back so people normally tap into thier pi crossover and run it that way. im not sure how the 95 coolant lines are hooked up and what would need to be done, but since you dont have a heatercore i dont see why you need to tap into it lol.

95xbird should be able to help you on that sct seeing how he had a 95 as well.
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post #20 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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ok which hose to i connect to the crossover? theres 2 hoses coming from the heatercore. one goeson the back heater hose and the other goes t the front. which should i attach them to? they are right be eachother.

or does it matter?
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post #21 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-07-2007, 09:40 AM
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If I remember correctly the Mustang PI manifold does have the coolant port in the back of the manifold.So no need to run extra hose if you go that route.

04 PI swap,SVO Supercharger 8-9 psi,Alcohol injection,39lbs Cobra injectors,XCal2-Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump,4.10 T-Lok,2003 4R70W built to withstand by RobertP,450hp JMOD,3800 circleD stall,trucool 4739 Trans Cooler,Dynotech 3.5 Driveshaft,70mm T/B,SCP Cold Air Intake,90mm LMAF,JBA headers,Magnaflow Midmount,No cats with 3inch piping,Vogtland 1.6inch drop,Cobra R's and xenon body kit.

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post #22 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-07-2007, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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yes the mustang does have that port so no need to worry. i believe the crossover needs to be tapped for the sensor tho.

Last edited by Porkchop; 01-07-2007 at 01:20 PM.
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post #23 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-07-2007, 01:18 PM
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Yep, just had a Mustang Intake put in my car, had to have the crossover tapped but thats cheap and easy.


1997 Thunderbird Sport
Low Miles
Wifes Car
destined to remain stock

1997 T-Bird GT 4.6
80 MM Mustang GT MAF - P&P'd Mustang GT TB and Intake Plenum - PI Intake manifold - PI Heads
Mark VIII Torque Converter - J-Modded 4R70W transmission - Mark VIII Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 gears
PBR Brake Calipers - Eibach Springs - KYB Shocks
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SCT Chip programmed by Lonnie Doll
255/50/16 Falken Ziex ZE-512's
True Dual exhaust with Magnaflow DI/DO muffler
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post #24 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-07-2007, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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so does it matter what line i hook up the hose to? or do they both run the same?
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post #25 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Well the motor swap is finished and everything is great!!

The car's front end actually lifts up in the air now. Maybe cuz its 90+lbs lighterwith a lot more horsies

One thing i did learn.....dont re-use the factory hose clamps
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post #26 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 03:19 PM
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Race time !!

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60'...... 2.06
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mph .... 77.13

mods*
PI heads *PI intake*Mark VIII torque converter*Cobra T-loc w\4.10's * Jmod*tranny fluid cooler*P&P stock T/B & plenum*UD pulleys* Dynotech 4in ds*80mm Lightning maf*Xcal2*02 GT intake tube.
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post #27 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 05:33 PM
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Right on Porky. I am very happy to hear that, after a little doubt and alot of reassurance. See, I knew you could do it!

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post #28 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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trust me i had my doubts.....but who doesnt when doing an engine swap?
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post #29 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Mod please sticky this....getting tired of seeing the same questions over and over
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post #30 of 132 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 07:59 PM
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I moved it here to 4.6 in addition to sticky. Not that anyone reads the stickies...

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R.I.P. Johnny Langton 1975-2011

1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 AED 349.27RWHP/391.29RWTQ Engine Build Exterior shots
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