HELP, missing throttle cable part - TCCoA Forums

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Question HELP, missing throttle cable part

I was wondering why my 1993 didn't seem to kick down when I was in OD, it just did nothing... Pulled over and noticed the upper throttle cable was not held in to the throttle body. Can anyone tell me what part I'm missing, a link or a part number??? I can't find it on Fordparts.com

Is it this?
http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pres...751/?year=1988

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 03:02 PM
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Where's Rayo?! He should be able to figure it out.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to call it the throttle cable kickdown bushing. I've found 2 types, the one I mentioned, and another for a Mustang but more robust then OEM.

here's the 2nd, I'll use this one!



Any thoughts or guidance welcome!

Last edited by Natesriv; 01-22-2017 at 04:15 PM.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 11:05 PM
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The actual part number is F3SZ-7H303-B for the Ford bushing set; but I find that's now around $30 to $50 (!!)

Check the dealer first; see if they have it more reasonably.

If not, then as long as that one's metal (PREFERABLY brass or bronze or even better Oilite(tm)) then use that one.

And SOON.

RwP

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 08:25 PM
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I thought they were called cable grommets? Mine broke and I bought some from Rockauto and they didn't fit. I was driving around with rebar tie wire holding it in place. Eventually a mechanic came up with a proper sized grommet and E-clip.

Rock auto has shift linkage bushings. That's what I bought and it didn't fit anyway.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Grommets! That's the word! I couldn't think of it.
The metal part if off a Mustang site, their setup is a little different, but it's the same cable and lever... so excited to get that installed!
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 10:50 AM
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*dry* That's why I listed the Ford part number; it helps when looking for the part.

But BUSHING is what that is; a "grommet" is a bit different.

(Doesn't keep folks from calling it a "grommet". Witness the folks selling "struts" for our SLA coil-over front suspensions ... )

RwP

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
*dry* That's why I listed the Ford part number; it helps when looking for the part.

But BUSHING is what that is; a "grommet" is a bit different.

(Doesn't keep folks from calling it a "grommet". Witness the folks selling "struts" for our SLA coil-over front suspensions ... )

RwP
Thanks for that, it's added to my reservoir of stuff to keep track of.
trnsmission and throttle linkage bushing fits multiple ford vehicales | eBay

I see versions of flat washers, ones with cotter pins, etc...

And you're right, they can be expensive!
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Kind of nervous now.. I discovered the problem after a 5'ish mile drive. Then drove straight home. I hear you can damage the tranny with that cable disconnected. Drove fine home and I didn't push her after I discovered the problem. Part arrives tomorrow, sure hope it's okay or it's tranny work for me

No oil leakage, didn't smell anything, seemed to just stay in OD the whole time......
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, just went for a short ride after I jury rigged up a connection it downshifted just fine when I punch the gas and it stayed in OD no problem, there wasn't any hesitation or jerkiness I hope it's okay
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 07:48 AM
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Not sure how the AOD is, but on some trannies, they recommend turning off OD with the switch before going WOT in 3rd. Something about an extra band being engaged if you just kick it down out of OD.

I am talking about much higher than stock HP though.......

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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No switch, I have OD and D (which is kinda odd, I've not had an automatic in years. My old Riviera had D then 3,2,1 I think...)
The drive last night was short, but I didn't get any indications of hunting for a gear. The part comes in today, so the SECOND I get home, I'm putting it on and going for a 30+ minute drive of highway and side streets...
I'm glad the people that owned it before me took care of it, there's regular maintenance shown on the Carfax and with interior showing no signs of even being worn I don't think the car was hustled much at all.
When I first found the issue I drove normally home and didn't try to punch it.. And I think the total time it was like that was <20 miles of driving.

It's just spooky when you read "immediate damage"... that's grounds for a recall I'd say!.. but again it's a 93.

If she needs tranny work, I'll do it, too good a car to not keep up!
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Part in, test drive a success!

Holds OD, downshifts smooth, no jerkiness or slipping. Thank goodness I caught it in time!
Tbird Bob likes this.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Little tip, if anyone buys this metal part with the clip, get some pliers and clamp the clip closed to tighten it up. I had to do that as the clip was just a hair too large and I was able to wiggle it free of its position. Pliers solved that!
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 12:41 PM
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There's threads around here that talk about adjusting the kickdown cable. It's supposed to be done with gauges by experts but there are jury rigging type threads around. If you are happy with the shifting its probably ok.

Threads here talk about not going wide open throttle and allowing the car to shift into overdrive. The overdrive band is weak. So to preserve your tranny go wot in Drive not overdrive.

For me, I'd want the tranny to kick down for good highway passing. That'd be my driveability test.

1992 Tbird LX 5.0, 3.73 gears, 1995 Cobra intake, deleted air silencer, 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust, SCP shorty headers. Updated four-hole fuel injectors. SK shift kit in AOD. Vogtland 0.9" springs, Tokico and Bilstein shocks.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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ahhh good advice!
I watched a video on the adjustment they did on the line. Just pull the the cable forward until the arm on the end is even with the hole. Put it in, which pushes the "clip" down and it's aligned with the neutral position of the throttle assembly.
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