Crap! What to do about rust spot on cylinder walls - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Crap! What to do about rust spot on cylinder walls

As mentioned in my thread asking about SS valve stems, my heads are now at the machine shop and so this weekend, I decided to prep the block a little more in the anticipation of the reinstallation of the heads (drain all the water I could out of the block, drain oil, clean deck surfaces).

It looks like we made a little mistake I want to run by you guys: in Cyl 7, a little water (if I had to guess, more than a few drops but < 1/8 teaspoon). I first saw it as a few rust spots on the topmost piston ring but when I rotated the engine to lower the piston, I saw this nasty bit of rust and gasped.

I'm kicking myself a bit because I should have gone over it more thoroughly after we pulled the heads but what's done is done..

* I cleaned all of the other cyl walls with a fresh cloth + ATF (I'll use paper towels when I do the final assembly as Dan taught me).
* All of the rust came off with a little wiping using the cloth+ATF. I did rotate the engine further and (good or bad), the ring swept up the rest of it.

What's left now (after cleaning pic) is a surface that you can FEEL with your finger to be different than the rest of the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder.

Q: How bad an issue is this?
Q: Should i do anything about it? Fine sand paper (if so, what grit)? Dingleberry hone (if so, what grit)?

I'm not going to pull the engine here and at this point, I don't mind if I'm a little down on power if I let the pistons "clearance" the walls during initial startup as long as longetivity is not compromised (I don't want to have to tear into this engine after the NEXT race).

Please advise as to what I should do.
Thanks,
-g
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rust_original.jpg (4.71 MB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg rust_aftercleaning.jpg (4.56 MB, 13 views)

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 09:45 AM
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That is totally not an issue. Worst case, that cylinder might be down slightly on compression, but I doubt you would even see that since it is closer to the bottom of the stroke. Once the engine is running, it will clearance that a little more, but it isn't going to damage anything, and you could run it like that for another 100K miles without issue.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 03:35 PM
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Even though some of it will be back in 300 miles, I would clean the sludge off the tops of the pistons and cylinder walls with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner.

Al

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 04:45 PM
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You know it will cause a loss of power, due to friction and blow by. Plus faster ring wear.

But the amount will be so slight, ignore it.

Your not racing a Ford GT.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r429460 View Post
You know it will cause a loss of power, due to friction and blow by. Plus faster ring wear.

But the amount will be so slight, ignore it.

Your not racing a Ford GT.
Good to hear that this was more a cosmetic concernt han anything else.
PS. I'm sure I can find a GT emblem at the JY. Instant "$500" Ford "GT"
At this point, both of those should be in quotes.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 06:36 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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I would, WTF!

Was it your Lemons car with the shopping cart?



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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
I would, WTF!

Was it your Lemons car with the shopping cart?



The trunk of Lazarus has an Umbrella Corporation sticker, and a Radiation symbol.
You might see a shopping cart and and old snowboard. I see a rear wing held at the proper 15 degrees in laminar airflow.
IMO, any discrepancy between these two points of views is merely a case of having a difference in opinions and not, as our president likes to put it, Alternative Facts

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