Chasing that pinging/rattling - Page 3 - TCCoA Forums

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post #61 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:47 PM
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I'll post a pic of the gauge face... it has a green zone denoting "normal"



Just like that above
Yah. We're looking for the 19 inches or so; that 50 tosses a wibbly for most 'Murikans, since that's not Imperial measures.

Hence any confusion there was (and there WAS a bit on my side, since atmospheric is not that often over 30 inches; 50 inches of vacuum would be, well, about 20 inches past a perfect vacuum ... *grins* And only obtained between the ears of some politicians and certain party faithful of either main party.)

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post #62 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:51 PM
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Run it without the timing spout in?
Yeah, that's what he's suggesting. The ECU will NOT advance timing.
I actually received my tbird with the Spark-out disconnected and ran it for two lemons races on the track (that 16+ hours x 2 of constant use at 3K+ RPM. This engine had 130K mi, had been rebuilt once, and it wouldn't rev beyond 4250RPM and I couldn't figure out out.

After doing a splitport swap (140HP->215HP), I found the Sparkout plug and when I put it back in voila! car would rev to 5K+ RPM... and then promptly blew up 19 laps into race 3. That was less than an hour into the day. In the postmortem, I found that one piston head had shattered and the rings had wrapped themselves around the crank. It was ugly, the block needed work, and that aluminum head was a goner. We scrapped it all.

Bottom line: If you have knocking issues, pull the sparkout and it'll be safe enough to drive wherever you need to go to get it repaired. Revving it to hear it bang is NOT a good idea.

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post #63 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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They call it the spout connector...goodness knows why.
No need to now, it's not pinging. Vacuum is 50 mm/Hg. At higher RPM's it holds that same vacuum.

I'm not touching anything until the knock returns, so far so good.
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post #64 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:16 PM
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It's an abbreviation for "spark output"

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post #65 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:15 PM
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Vacuum is 50 mm/Hg.
So roughly 20 in-Hg (the commonly used unit here in the United States). That's reasonable, but I wouldn't say that it rules out a small unmetered air leak. I'd expect a slightly stronger vacuum signal from a stock 5.0L.

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post #66 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 02:54 PM
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Your spark plugs can burn up real fast if you are driving with pinging.

1992 Tbird LX 5.0, 3.73 gears, 1995 Cobra intake, deleted air silencer, 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust, SCP shorty headers. Updated four-hole fuel injectors. SK shift kit in AOD. Vogtland 0.9" springs, Tokico and Bilstein shocks.
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post #67 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it's pinging again. It's doing it enough at 5° BTDC that I don't see any point in moving it to 0°. I still need to put on the balancer, but I'm just tired of laying under the car for hours trying to get a bolt out. I'm going to get a pro do it. Take it to a shop, let them put it on and figure out the issue. Once the balancer's on that's the last part of the puzzle I had left to nail down the issue. It could still be carbon build up on the cylinder heads, very well could be a bad balancer (I get a vibration at 65 - 70 mph that no tire balancing's taken care of)

I'll pay the extra $$ to have someone with more tools than me get it sorted out. My work buddy has a shop that's skilled and doesn't charge an arm & a leg.

After that, it's the tranny issue with the torque converter. Then she's ready for the show!
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post #68 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gordonm1 View Post
Your spark plugs can burn up real fast if you are driving with pinging.
Agreed, they and the wires are brand new. I didn't replace the rotor or the cap. I just sanded off the contacts as they had some carbon on them.

Next place she's driving is a shop!
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post #69 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 05:53 PM
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Agreed, they and the wires are brand new. I didn't replace the rotor or the cap. I just sanded off the contacts as they had some carbon on them.

Next place she's driving is a shop!
I forget about those parts; they wear as bad as wires do; I'd replace them before taking it to the shop.

That's the first thing they will do, anyway.

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post #70 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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I just did. Put new Accel cap & rotor on. Car runs great! It does LIGHTLY ping when I'm on it harder than I should... Solution... drive it easy. Whole reason I bought it was to cruise an enjoy the comfort & power.

So for now, she's in a holding pattern. The tranny is next, trying to figure out why my TC engages and disengages when coasting...

Thanks to all you guys, been a real help!!!!
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post #71 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 10:27 AM
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It may have been a new Accel cap that gave me a miss. It didn't work with the Motorcraft rotor at any rate.

1992 Tbird LX 5.0, 3.73 gears, 1995 Cobra intake, deleted air silencer, 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust, SCP shorty headers. Updated four-hole fuel injectors. SK shift kit in AOD. Vogtland 0.9" springs, Tokico and Bilstein shocks.
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post #72 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natesriv View Post
I just did. Put new Accel cap & rotor on. Car runs great! It does LIGHTLY ping when I'm on it harder than I should... Solution... drive it easy. Whole reason I bought it was to cruise an enjoy the comfort & power.

So for now, she's in a holding pattern. The tranny is next, trying to figure out why my TC engages and disengages when coasting...

Thanks to all you guys, been a real help!!!!
Did you recheck your timing after installing the new harmonic balancer?

Also, before you put any more money in the transmission, have you checked your compression yet? Cars shouldn't "lightly ping" when you get on it; something is not right and I would try and diagnose this before throwing more money into a car that's not getting more valuable with every benjamin (or hamilton even) you throw into it.

It's your money but i wouldn't dump ANY more cash into it until after I got a baseline about how healthy this engine is.

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post #73 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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It's not on yet. I've not gone ahead with it since I'm not able to put it on myself, I'll save some pennies till I can get it installed.
I'm not sure how cylinder compression would have anything to do with the transmission though....
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post #74 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 01:46 PM
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Well like I posted before, for nothing more than an hour or 2 of your time, you can verify the ignition timing without having to spend a dime or change the balancer, and at least determine if that is the cause of your pinging or not.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
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-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
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post #75 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 03:11 PM
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It's not on yet. I've not gone ahead with it since I'm not able to put it on myself, I'll save some pennies till I can get it installed.
I'm not sure how cylinder compression would have anything to do with the transmission though....
Cyl compression has nothing to do with the transmission itself.
It has everything to do with whether or not throwing any more money into a car with transmissions issues AND a worn out engine makes any sense (which you would learn from seeing low compression numbers and/or a significant delta between cyl).

Example: since there does seem to be a limit to what work you want to do on the car yourself (so we are talking about parts+labor costs and not just parts costs), you may be just throwing more money into a pit. That helps our economy in general (so thanks for that) but not necessarily your own bottom line.
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post #76 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the compression results I just did... I can DIY. I just have enough money (at times) to NOT have my hands all f"cking cut up.


Spot on...cold engine.
#8 is 150...sorta looks like 1500
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post #77 of 81 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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2nd time... cylinder #5 was barely tight in the block and that was the one plug I set the gap wrong at... thought I'd missed one.
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post #78 of 81 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE 5-26-27

I took the car to a mechanic my buddy recommended to me. They had the car a week (I think they just worked on it when they could). He looked at the EGR and checked inside the cylinders to see if there was excessive carbon buildup. Seeing nothing out of the ordinary he changed the MAF sensor...BOOM solved.

I'd seen threads about the MAF being an issue more than once, but considering I had no codes and the car ran fine (besides the pinging) I didn't change it.

Picked it up, drove home (about 18 miles...engine warmed up)...no pinging.

SO.......... bad MAF seemed to be the problem. I did buy a new harmonic balancer, and I'm keeping it just in case that's the next issue.

So, it seems I'm back to having a sweet ride again!

Gotta admit, I love this car!
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post #79 of 81 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 06:41 PM
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Bingo. Now you can advance the timing back to where it should be.

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post #80 of 81 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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it's at 10° BTDC now. I should double check it's STILL there though
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post #81 of 81 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 06:52 PM
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It wants 12-14 base timing.

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