Tune up today and noticed some odd things - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Tune up today and noticed some odd things

So I have just gotten around to tuning up this 5.0 it seems to always be running rich lacking power some delayed hesitation on starting especially after the 2nd a 3rd starts I assumed the mass air needed... Cleaning and IAC to be looked at etc...
Took off the big tube from throttle body to mass air and there's a fair amount of oil in there which can't be good for the mass air and I'm assuming a big reason why it isn't performing well the crank case breather tube that leads off of the oil inlet spout into the intake tube has got to be where it is coming from .
Anyone know if this is blow by ? Or what the situation could be and should I not have any type of residuals in there ?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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And after digging deeper just to see what's what since the cars been kept stock for 27 yrs and according to service logs original owner has never neglected the car figured I'd see how far repairs went and how clean things are .. not sure if this is normal or what it implies or tells anyone that's experienced who knows what they're looking at and what I can do about it or if it tells a bigger problem
Notice oil in spots under plugs that you would not think belong where air flow takes place
Someone

Someone can point some things here as I'm...learning about this as I go tell me this could make a huge impact on gas rich or lean efficiency idle issues power restrictions starting hesitation ( that part is not terribly bad but not how it should be for EFI motor )

Should I seafoam this intake or clean it with TbCleaner part by part
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Last edited by 1991 5.0; 06-18-2017 at 12:53 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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I also notice to inner cable housings cracked on the throttle linkage and TV cable the cable still seem to move in and out of the housing even though the plastic surrounding is cracked is this an issue
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 02:34 PM
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That is blow by.

I'd change the PCV valve AND the PCV filter that's under the PCV valve; some people just leave that filter off.

(Valve is at the back of the lower intake; follow that big hose off the driver's side of the upper intake to the back, where it tee's, then follow the short leg of the tee to the intake).

Try a Fram PCV filter; they suck a LOT more oil than the Motorcraft one does, so it helps dump that blowby back into the intake instead of into the air tube.

Also, start saving up; the rings are worn in that motor (the oil ring in any case!), so it'll be smoking and sucking oil from now on.

(I'm in the same boat, but not as bad; with the Motorcraft PCV valve, I get about 1500 miles per quart, but a couple of WOTs and the dipstick is shoved out enough to vent, and it blows a touch of oil out there! With the Fram PCV valve, I get about 750 miles per quart, but no dipstick excursions. Make what you will of that. All with, currently, Valvoline MaxLife motor oil, 'cuz it's a lot easier to find than the Motorcraft oil I'd rather run.)

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
That is blow by.

I'd change the PCV valve AND the PCV filter that's under the PCV valve; some people just leave that filter off.

(Valve is at the back of the lower intake; follow that big hose off the driver's side of the upper intake to the back, where it tee's, then follow the short leg of the tee to the intake).

Try a Fram PCV filter; they suck a LOT more oil than the Motorcraft one does, so it helps dump that blowby back into the intake instead of into the air tube.

Also, start saving up; the rings are worn in that motor (the oil ring in any case!), so it'll be smoking and sucking oil from now on.

(I'm in the same boat, but not as bad; with the Motorcraft PCV valve, I get about 1500 miles per quart, but a couple of WOTs and the dipstick is shoved out enough to vent, and it blows a touch of oil out there! With the Fram PCV valve, I get about 750 miles per quart, but no dipstick excursions. Make what you will of that. All with, currently, Valvoline MaxLife motor oil, 'cuz it's a lot easier to find than the Motorcraft oil I'd rather run.)

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I followed up on your advise and looked at all the components the PCv valve is clean and functional. I cleaned it anyhow the crank case breather I took out it was clean as whistle I cleaned it as well .
When you mention dip stick excursion do you mean the dipstick tube down at the oil pan coming out of the garment or the dipstick itself coming out of the tube ?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 09:48 PM
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I'm seeing a few issues from the pics you posted..

It's common to see oil in the rubber air tube..
That oil gets pushed into the air tube through a rubber hose connected to the oil fill neck on the passenger side valve cover..
If the PCV system has been neglected for awhile, then you get more oil collecting in there..
Most of the time it's just oil vapors inside the air tube that build up to an oil film in there over time..

The oil laying on the bottom of the MAF sensor housing isn't going to hurt anything...Maybe if you had your MAF installed upside down..
Gravity just let that oil slowly works it's way down there..
Nevertheless it would be wise to carefully remove the MAF sensor and clean it..
They make an aerosol spray specifically for cleaning the MAF sensor..You can buy it at the auto parts store..

The inside of that Throttle Body is filthy..I'm sure the inside of your Upper and Lower intake is coated with the same shit..

You can clean all of that out of the inside of the Throttle Body, and your Upper/Lower intake..
The way the PCV and EGR systems are set up, they will eventually go back to looking like that again though..

The only way around that is to install an oil separator, so the oil doesn't get sucked back into the intake..Instead it goes into a catch can..
Then the EGR pumps all that black carbon back into the Intake..Only way to fix that is to remove all the EGR related shit..

I would suggest replacing the Upper and Lower Intake Gaskets, as well as the Throttle Body Gasket, EGR Gasket,IAC Valve Gasket..
You might as well replace the pintle caps and O-Rings on your Fuel Injectors too..
Then change the Fuel Pressure Regulator as well, since you will have easy access to it with everything apart..

It would also be a good time to change all the hoses coolant runs through..
Like the heater core hoses, then both of the small hoses coming off the Water Pump..
As well as your Radiator hoses, besides now would be a good time to flush all that old coolant out and check the condition of it..

Moving on to the next set of pics..

You have a broken TV Cable, well the plastic is split from the cable..Even though it might still be functioning..
When the sheathing split on the cable you don't know if it threw the adjustment out of whack, it might be too loose now..
It would be wise to adjust the TV Cable to its optimal setting..You'll probably have to tighten it up some..

The TV Cable is tricky, but basically it's better to have it pulled tight rather than too loose..Too loose will fry your transmission in short order..

There's a write-up in the Archives on how to do that-->> TV Cable Adjustment








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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 11:31 PM
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I meant the dip stick out of the tube; tube stays attached, I can just push the dip stick 1/2" back down and it SNICKS into place.

But it's a way to let me know if the wife has been rough-riding and embarrasing Mustang owners again *grins*

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 08:55 AM
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Just because the PCV valve itself looks good doesn't mean the system is functioning properly. Beneath the PCV valve in the intake manifold you will see a wire mesh looking thing. That piece gets clogged up with carbon buildup all the time, and even if the valve itself is working, the system can't work with that piece blocking the flow. On literally every 5.0 car I have ever owned, the first thing I do is change the oil, and remove that screen, and I have never seen one that wasn't clogged up solid. To remove it, first remove the PCV valve and grommet, then use a long wood screw to screw into it, then grab that with a pair of pliers and pull it up and out.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 09:24 AM
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Oil catch cans are easy to make from hardware store bits if the oil bothers you that much.

The true test of whether or not your rings are worn is to do a compression test of each cylinder.
On any cyl with low compression, you squirt a little oil into the spark plug hole and retest. If compression climbs, it's the rings.

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