94-95 Mustang GT Manual ECM in 91-93 MN12 - Page 4 - TCCoA Forums

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post #91 of 160 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HarryS View Post
I have a EEC wiring diagram from a Mustang website for a 94/95 5.0, there is no further identification and no computer number is called out. This diagram matches your chart for the EEC pinout except it shows pin 38 wired to a Barometric Pressure sensor, you show no connection. Do you know if the Mustang does indeed use a BP sensor and does the T4M0 support this. I think if it does this would help the driveability of the car. Thanks, HarryS
You are correct, pin 38 is Electronic Pressure Control Output. I omitted it because the MN12 5.0's don't have that sensor. In my experience I haven't seen a need to use the BAP since the car has a closed loop MAF system. However, Lonnie is a better reference point on this. The purpose of this swap is to enable you to have a better tuning base. If having access to control a BAP adds to that then definitely give it a shot.

Good luck.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
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post #92 of 160 (permalink) Old 04-27-2007, 11:54 PM
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Pin 38 is for the epc solenoid on an aod-e. EPC is an abbreviation for Electronic Pressure Control.
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post #93 of 160 (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 10:12 AM
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The diagram I have doesn't have the label EPC for pin 38, it has the wording "Barometric Pressure Sensor"? I have ordered the Ford wiring manual for the 95 Mustang to try to work this out.
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post #94 of 160 (permalink) Old 04-29-2007, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HarryS View Post
The diagram I have doesn't have the label EPC for pin 38, it has the wording "Barometric Pressure Sensor"? I have ordered the Ford wiring manual for the 95 Mustang to try to work this out.
You know, I wasn't thinking when I posted. Pin 38 is listed as the EPC according to the EVTM. You can go to www.fordcds.com and get the manual on CD for free.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
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post #95 of 160 (permalink) Old 08-29-2007, 07:31 PM
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My maf sensor went out on my '95 3.8 Mustang today. I was checking if the 5.0 was the same and it is. I found a buyers guide at motorcraft.com that lists all the cars this maf fits. Hope this clears up what junkyard maf will work.

Part No: AFLS104RM Desc: Reman Air Mass Snsr - Fuel Injection Manufacturer: MOTORCRAFT Years: 93 - 95 Applications: 10

App Years Make Model Engine Qty Per Vehicle
2 94-95 FORD MUSTANG V6-232 3.8L 1

2 94-95 FORD All Models V8-302 5.0L 1

1 93-93 FORD All Models V8-281 4.6L SOHC 1

1 94-94 FORD CROWN VICTORIA V8-281 4.6L SOHC 1

2 93-94 LINCOLN All Models V8-281 4.6L SOHC 1

1 93-93 MERCURY All Models V8-281 4.6L SOHC 1

1 94-94 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS V8-281 4.6L SOHC 1
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post #96 of 160 (permalink) Old 08-30-2007, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
You know, I wasn't thinking when I posted. Pin 38 is listed as the EPC according to the EVTM. You can go to www.fordcds.com and get the manual on CD for free.
And you don't need the BPS since their isn't one installed or used on our Tbirds. Only real reason to install one is if you were going to SC it with some heavy boost.

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post #97 of 160 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 08:47 PM
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I finally broke down and reordered a tweecer and had it for about a week now and have learned so much. one of the first things I did was the usually turn of the egr made sure the trans strategy's were set correctly then moved on and put in the J4J1 spark table as it is known to be a better stock spark table. Now when I get a different maf I'm going to start and work on the hanging revs and change my injector timing as I have read that to be the major cause and it park of some of the fine tuning. Also some mustang guys are having problems with the hanging revs between shifts, I feel that if this EEC was put in a car with a aod one would not see this to be such a big problem. As far a j4j1 fuel tables I've heard them to be too rich for comfort with some people. like I said I have learned alto and I'm still learning and this stuff make me get a head ache

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post #98 of 160 (permalink) Old 10-21-2007, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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One final note on this; you need to move the ACT sensor from the lower intake manifold to the intake tube like the SN95. This is critical since you will always be fighting the car when you tune it since the SN95 ECM thinks that the sensor is in a cooler location.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
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-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
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post #99 of 160 (permalink) Old 10-21-2007, 12:36 PM
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The spark tables are totally different along with how they are calculated is the major reason for moving it.

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post #100 of 160 (permalink) Old 10-21-2007, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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The spark tables are totally different along with how they are calculated is the major reason for moving it.
Yep. I found that out the hard way.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #101 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-13-2008, 03:17 PM
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Would anyone be able to post the pinout of the auto pcm? I have installed a 5.0 into a 94 SC and am using a u4po pcm and a 93 mn 12 5.0 engine harness. I upgraded to a 2000 4r70w trans using the old style wire harness and noids, but i need to get it hooked up properly. I am using the original 4r harness on the trans that came with the car. I already have an evtm for a 93 and a 94 bird but didn't think to get one of a 95 stang. If anyone can could post the info it would be greatly appreciated as it will take a couple of weeks for me to get an evtm as i am in Canada. Thanks, Mark.
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post #102 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-13-2008, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Would anyone be able to post the pinout of the auto pcm? I have installed a 5.0 into a 94 SC and am using a u4po pcm and a 93 mn 12 5.0 engine harness. I upgraded to a 2000 4r70w trans using the old style wire harness and noids, but i need to get it hooked up properly. I am using the original 4r harness on the trans that came with the car. I already have an evtm for a 93 and a 94 bird but didn't think to get one of a 95 stang. If anyone can could post the info it would be greatly appreciated as it will take a couple of weeks for me to get an evtm as i am in Canada. Thanks, Mark.

Look here: http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde....0;attach=4312

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
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post #103 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-19-2008, 09:59 AM
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post #104 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 09:15 AM
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my 91 super coupe has a 5.0 swapped in with the m5r2. it has a 95 cobra intake and a e-cam. it still uses the sc 60mm throttle body. if i throw in 24# injectors and the 94/95 maf meter with the 94/95 computer it should run factory smooth correct?

it just seems like it would be cheaper and easier to swap these things, than for me to go get a dyno tune just to get my car to run better. does this make sense?
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post #105 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 11:18 AM
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Don't know how I missed this thread from 05... There is some good info in here.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #106 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by svtfiend@yahoo.com View Post
my 91 super coupe has a 5.0 swapped in with the m5r2. it has a 95 cobra intake and a e-cam. it still uses the sc 60mm throttle body. if i throw in 24# injectors and the 94/95 maf meter with the 94/95 computer it should run factory smooth correct?

it just seems like it would be cheaper and easier to swap these things, than for me to go get a dyno tune just to get my car to run better. does this make sense?
Well, it's not exactly that simple. The combination you have isn't quite the same as the stock 94-95 Mustang and the sensor locations aren't all exactly the same. You would be pretty close with what you are listing but you will need to relocate the ACT to the intake tube to start since that is how the Mustang was configured in 94-95. Beyond that, it may run fine but it's just something you'll have to see when you have it running.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
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post #107 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 08:39 PM
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the act thing is no big deal. so, with the arc, will my "firm" setting still work? i take it the auto setting will not be able to read data from the ecm, but the stock stuff will still work right? i was planning on switching to non arc stuff anyways, but not till later on down the road.
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post #108 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 08:43 PM
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also, would a maf from a dohc 4.6 (w/24# inj) work?

just to be clear, i presently have no interest in tuning my car myself, i just want it to run better than it currently does. i think the cobra map would be way closer to my cars configuration than anything else.
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post #109 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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If ARC relies on the ECM to operate then it won't work. I know there is a lead in place for it from the ECM so I would guess that it won't work.

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Originally Posted by svtfiend@yahoo.com View Post
the act thing is no big deal. so, with the arc, will my "firm" setting still work? i take it the auto setting will not be able to read data from the ecm, but the stock stuff will still work right? i was planning on switching to non arc stuff anyways, but not till later on down the road.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
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post #110 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Nope. That MAF has a curve specific to it's application so it won't work for your application. Match the MAF to the ECM and engine if you want it to work. Of course this is all without tuning. If you had the car tuned (i.e. chipped) then you could use any combination you like.


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Originally Posted by svtfiend@yahoo.com View Post
also, would a maf from a dohc 4.6 (w/24# inj) work?

just to be clear, i presently have no interest in tuning my car myself, i just want it to run better than it currently does. i think the cobra map would be way closer to my cars configuration than anything else.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #111 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 08:31 AM
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i checked ebay and only saw auto ecms. any other sure sources? seems like you guys got yours pretty cheap. otherwise i'll just keep an eye out on there.
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post #112 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Just search for T4M0 on ebay. If you don't find one right away you'll have to keep a lookout for one.

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i checked ebay and only saw auto ecms. any other sure sources? seems like you guys got yours pretty cheap. otherwise i'll just keep an eye out on there.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #113 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 09:11 PM
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i found one on corral and talked the guy down to 75 shipped. its a t4mo, so i wouldn't have to change the injectors right away. theres also 2 maf meters from 94 95 gt/cobras for under 50 bucks shipped on ebay.

for just a little over a hundred bucks i could do the swap. should i expect the car to run better just with the stock gt tune?
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post #114 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 09:37 PM
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I've been watching this thread for quite some time now....and I finally have some questions.

1. Is switching to the Mustang ECM truly needed?

2. Would it be more effective to simply switch to something like a Megasquirt/Megasquirt II?

3. Considering I'm a bit of an idiot when it comes to screwing around with ECM tuning (I've never done it), is there a noticeable degree of tunability with this ECM? Or are there just a few select tunes available to choose from? I have some crazy ideas for what to replace my stock 5.0 with, and one of them involve an EFI 351C....

I have a different reason for wanting to replace my Bird ECM; It's easier to replace a Mustang ECM should it go bad, as has happened with my Bird once already (I just happened to get lucky the last time it died, a local guy had a reman ECM for the bird out of a wrecked 1991 5.0 car)....and if there isn't anyone remotely close to the Pacific Northwest that can work with the stock T-bird ECM, considering I'm going to have to do some tuning work eventually, unless there is someone close by who can work with the Bird unit, I would like to have something a bit more 'plug and play' that I can access locally.

Any suggestions would be welcomed....

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post #115 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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The only reason to switch would be so that you can easily use an add on tuner like the Tweecer RT or any other tuner that uses the J3 port. If you switch to this ECM without those tuners you also need to get a MAF from the same model year of Mustang and you need to relocate your ACT to the intake tube (which you should do anyway in this switch). You can use Megasquirt or almost any other tuning system as well. It's all really about personal preference.

Honestly, at this point the model years in question (91-93) are between 16 and 18 years old and if you are still using the car as a daily driver you would be better served to just leave it alone. If you are wanting to make it into more of a race car then I would recommend rethinking just about everything you are considering since this platform isn't very friendly to goals like racing. Just get a Mustang and your life will be easier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilMooseofDoom View Post
I've been watching this thread for quite some time now....and I finally have some questions.

1. Is switching to the Mustang ECM truly needed?

2. Would it be more effective to simply switch to something like a Megasquirt/Megasquirt II?

3. Considering I'm a bit of an idiot when it comes to screwing around with ECM tuning (I've never done it), is there a noticeable degree of tunability with this ECM? Or are there just a few select tunes available to choose from? I have some crazy ideas for what to replace my stock 5.0 with, and one of them involve an EFI 351C....

I have a different reason for wanting to replace my Bird ECM; It's easier to replace a Mustang ECM should it go bad, as has happened with my Bird once already (I just happened to get lucky the last time it died, a local guy had a reman ECM for the bird out of a wrecked 1991 5.0 car)....and if there isn't anyone remotely close to the Pacific Northwest that can work with the stock T-bird ECM, considering I'm going to have to do some tuning work eventually, unless there is someone close by who can work with the Bird unit, I would like to have something a bit more 'plug and play' that I can access locally.

Any suggestions would be welcomed....

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1993 Ford Thunderbird LX
Coast High Peformance 342 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.73 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Built Darrin/dirtyd0g AOD with wide ratio gearset
dirtyd0g 9.5" Custom Torque Converter
Quarterhorse ECM from Moates
Zeitronix ZT-2 WB O2
No times under new system.......yet.
OMGHI2U

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post #116 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
The only reason to switch would be so that you can easily use an add on tuner like the Tweecer RT or any other tuner that uses the J3 port. If you switch to this ECM without those tuners you also need to get a MAF from the same model year of Mustang and you need to relocate your ACT to the intake tube (which you should do anyway in this switch). You can use Megasquirt or almost any other tuning system as well. It's all really about personal preference.

Honestly, at this point the model years in question (91-93) are between 16 and 18 years old and if you are still using the car as a daily driver you would be better served to just leave it alone. If you are wanting to make it into more of a race car then I would recommend rethinking just about everything you are considering since this platform isn't very friendly to goals like racing. Just get a Mustang and your life will be easier.
1. The car has been permanently retired as a daily driver as of March 4th, 2008....the day my mother passed away, and it became mine. In addition, the car isn't going anywhere, so in a good way, I'm stuck with the car. In addition, all I ask is that I not be associated with 'Twin-Turbo 281' types of builds, as I'm probably one of the most detail-obsessed auto mechanics out there. Hack-job cars set my teeth on edge....

2. It's not going to become a race car, it's simply going to be a nice street driver that's going to be more aggressive than stock....and whatever will be done with the car has to be reversible, or doesn't butcher the car to the point where it can't be driven, or changes the car to where it's unrecognizable or undrivable. I actually started on this car some years ago, back when my Mom still drove it ( I bought it for her in 1999), and most of what I'm doing was something her and I discussed doing already. However, as new or improved parts become available....

3. I'm rather familiar with what can and can't be done with this platform; I've already done an extensive amount of work to this car (with more to follow), and have performed repair, restoration, and modification work to countless other vehicles, no small number of them being my own. This particular bit of research is an attempt to fill a small hole in my knowledge curve about the Mustang ECM suggested as an easier-to-procure replacement for the rather-difficult-to-find OEM T-bird ECM. Initially, the first problem I'd like to eliminate is the issue of the stock, almost irreplaceable stock ECM. Second, If there is a better solution (Megasquirt, or similar), while I don't profess being an expert about EFI in general, and don't tune EFI cars, I do have a pretty good grasp about how the stuff works; I'm simply out of the loop concerning the computer-tuning end of the spectrum....and I want to know if there is something out there that is better for what I'm trying to do.

4. While I might give the appearance of darting all over the map concerning what I'm going to do with this vehicle, I actually have a solid build plan for this car as to what is going to be done with it. The engine I'm building (long-rod 302 with some interesting modifications) is almost completed, and about 50-60% of the new/rebuilt/modified parts have been procured. This engine combo will require tuning to maximize what I'm trying to do with it, and if the T-bird ECM is a weak link....then it's going to be tossed. And if the Mustang ECM only has a few possible tuning maps to choose from....I'm not even sure I want to go down that path, either, as the only 'touchy' part of this combo is going to be ensuring that I have a conservative timing curve. That's why I'm asking questions about how 'tunable' the Mustang ECM is now, instead of after bolting everything into the car, and then asking why the Mustang ECM won't adapt to what I'm trying to do....

5. I already have an Exploder intake, and due to the lack of an ACT hold drilled in the lower intake, it's already in the works to relocate it. In addition....I already have a couple of Mustang MAF units in the pile of parts (94 and 95).

6. If this becomes too big of a pain in the rear to settle....I can always go carbed. As I stated, this car has been permanently retired from daily-driver status....and to be honest with you, something has been lost with EFI, in how sluggish most EFI cars I've either owned, worked on, or driven are, in comparison to a snappy, properly-tuned carbed vehicle. One of my favorite carbed cars that I owned was a 1985 Mustang GT (5-speed)....after spending a few weeks tuning a turd Edelbrock carb (not as easy to tune as advertised)....I loved driving it. My only complaint was the road noise was a bit unbearable on long drives....and Edelbrocks aren't as good of a carb as some of the better offerings out there. This is 'plan B' of course....but it's workable.

7. Do a Mustang? I've already owned seven....a big-block '79 Cobra, 82', 83', 84', 85', and 1989 GT's....a 1984 Coupe, and...I'm forgetting the last one....With the exception of the ECM problem, I have a definite plan for this Bird....and I like the way it feels on road trips. This car is incredibly stable up to 100+, whereas the Mustangs and other cars that I've owned....weren't. With the exception of the seating problem that I'm working on....I like driving it long distances....where I couldn't get out of any of my Mustangs fast enough (or other cars that I've owned).

Does anyone here have any Megasquirt experience?

So yeah, I bought two Lincolns in a week.

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post #117 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 02:47 AM
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For megasquirt info look up DIYautotune.com they have alot of info and carry all the parts. Personally alot are going with the Moates Quarterhorse but it is on back order so order one now. I'll be ordering one soon. The QH can tune any EEC IV or EEC V ecu as long as you can find the stock binary files for your given ecu. The tuning is in real time (engine running). The hardware is plugged into the J3 port and is USB'd to a laptop/desktop and you can make changes with the car running. Teh hardware is 250$ plus the cost to download the software editors? May want to look into it. Oh and evil moose i have another install that will look a little cleaner coming very soon. May not be perfect enough for a napa guy thou

Megasquirt will be more involved as you have to do some splicing and its a batch fired speed density ecu that runs off of basic inputs liek a 36-1 tooth crank triger/map/ and so on.

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post #118 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 03:40 AM
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Oh and evil moose i have another install that will look a little cleaner coming very soon. May not be perfect enough for a napa guy thou
No, that's okay, I'll wait for advice from someone else who isn't showing the rest of us 'How Not To Weld' and '149 reasons why you should drown your children if they start talking about quad-turbo engine setups'.

So yeah, I bought two Lincolns in a week.

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post #119 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 03:43 AM
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I need some parts for my car wana hook me up? Sorry last thread hijack back on topic.....

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post #120 of 160 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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OK, so you are not in this to just play around. That's a good thing. Ultimately I ended up going with the Mustang ECM because I wanted more tuning options than SCT and I had heard good things about the Tweecer RT. I ended up going that route but ultimately switched the AEM EMS. My setup was just too difficult to get everything working with the Tweecer RT and I'm not smart enough to make it work. I did have some success since I did get the car to run 13.1 in the 1/4 but I wanted more and I got a deal on the AEM.

I'm not really sure what advice to give. I think the Mustang ECM setup can work for you but if you want to get a bit more radical than a NA 302 I think something else might be easier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilMooseofDoom View Post
1. The car has been permanently retired as a daily driver as of March 4th, 2008....the day my mother passed away, and it became mine. In addition, the car isn't going anywhere, so in a good way, I'm stuck with the car. In addition, all I ask is that I not be associated with 'Twin-Turbo 281' types of builds, as I'm probably one of the most detail-obsessed auto mechanics out there. Hack-job cars set my teeth on edge....

2. It's not going to become a race car, it's simply going to be a nice street driver that's going to be more aggressive than stock....and whatever will be done with the car has to be reversible, or doesn't butcher the car to the point where it can't be driven, or changes the car to where it's unrecognizable or undrivable. I actually started on this car some years ago, back when my Mom still drove it ( I bought it for her in 1999), and most of what I'm doing was something her and I discussed doing already. However, as new or improved parts become available....

3. I'm rather familiar with what can and can't be done with this platform; I've already done an extensive amount of work to this car (with more to follow), and have performed repair, restoration, and modification work to countless other vehicles, no small number of them being my own. This particular bit of research is an attempt to fill a small hole in my knowledge curve about the Mustang ECM suggested as an easier-to-procure replacement for the rather-difficult-to-find OEM T-bird ECM. Initially, the first problem I'd like to eliminate is the issue of the stock, almost irreplaceable stock ECM. Second, If there is a better solution (Megasquirt, or similar), while I don't profess being an expert about EFI in general, and don't tune EFI cars, I do have a pretty good grasp about how the stuff works; I'm simply out of the loop concerning the computer-tuning end of the spectrum....and I want to know if there is something out there that is better for what I'm trying to do.

4. While I might give the appearance of darting all over the map concerning what I'm going to do with this vehicle, I actually have a solid build plan for this car as to what is going to be done with it. The engine I'm building (long-rod 302 with some interesting modifications) is almost completed, and about 50-60% of the new/rebuilt/modified parts have been procured. This engine combo will require tuning to maximize what I'm trying to do with it, and if the T-bird ECM is a weak link....then it's going to be tossed. And if the Mustang ECM only has a few possible tuning maps to choose from....I'm not even sure I want to go down that path, either, as the only 'touchy' part of this combo is going to be ensuring that I have a conservative timing curve. That's why I'm asking questions about how 'tunable' the Mustang ECM is now, instead of after bolting everything into the car, and then asking why the Mustang ECM won't adapt to what I'm trying to do....

5. I already have an Exploder intake, and due to the lack of an ACT hold drilled in the lower intake, it's already in the works to relocate it. In addition....I already have a couple of Mustang MAF units in the pile of parts (94 and 95).

6. If this becomes too big of a pain in the rear to settle....I can always go carbed. As I stated, this car has been permanently retired from daily-driver status....and to be honest with you, something has been lost with EFI, in how sluggish most EFI cars I've either owned, worked on, or driven are, in comparison to a snappy, properly-tuned carbed vehicle. One of my favorite carbed cars that I owned was a 1985 Mustang GT (5-speed)....after spending a few weeks tuning a turd Edelbrock carb (not as easy to tune as advertised)....I loved driving it. My only complaint was the road noise was a bit unbearable on long drives....and Edelbrocks aren't as good of a carb as some of the better offerings out there. This is 'plan B' of course....but it's workable.

7. Do a Mustang? I've already owned seven....a big-block '79 Cobra, 82', 83', 84', 85', and 1989 GT's....a 1984 Coupe, and...I'm forgetting the last one....With the exception of the ECM problem, I have a definite plan for this Bird....and I like the way it feels on road trips. This car is incredibly stable up to 100+, whereas the Mustangs and other cars that I've owned....weren't. With the exception of the seating problem that I'm working on....I like driving it long distances....where I couldn't get out of any of my Mustangs fast enough (or other cars that I've owned).

Does anyone here have any Megasquirt experience?

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"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
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