Procedure For Cooling System Refill....3.8L - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums

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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-22-2006, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by foobarbigtime
How often should the cooling system fluid be replaced?
They say ever two years. I do it when it starts looking a little less than fresh...
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-28-2007, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sinhumane View Post
excellent. my upper rad hose collapsed on me last night, and i need to replace both tonight. so i'll definitely use this method.
Don't forget to remove this plug when you refill the fluids.

I had to use a 1/2" braker bar (24") and an extension pipe to get this SOB off!
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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-23-2007, 10:48 PM
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what plug is that your pic is gone, what i did was pulled the lower rad hose drained completly, filled with straight water drove around for about 15 minutes with heater on, repeated that step 4 times to get all old coolant out of everything, then drained again. (also replaced upper and lower hose and all belts) Then filled with a whole bottle of pure antifreeze, and bottle of the rad additive from prestone that aides in helping the wp, and filled the rest with water. Drove around for a day then topped it off with some 50/50
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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-23-2007, 11:56 PM
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The said plug is on a tee in the intake manifold. Looking at the front of the engine it is the removeable plug on the top of the tee to the right. Unless it broke off it should have a label on it.


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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-10-2009, 11:13 PM
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I wanted to add a couple things here that will help some people with trapped air or pockets of air.As previously mentioned,raising the front of the vehicle helps.Setting the heat/AC controls to heat.Doing this opens a valve in one of the heater hoses, which allows coolant to circulate, pushing out any trapped air.Do this while the car is still jacked up.Some newer cars have a valve on both heater hoses to stop all warmth from passing into the interior.This helps the A/C work better.There is no issue with idling a car with the rad cap off while topping the system off.Just do not remove it while the engine is running or hot.Another issue that I have to explain to customers is coolant to water ratio.50/50 is standard all climate mix and this is what the factory puts in.I live in SC where we rarely get snow or ice.ALL of my vehicles have 25% coolant and 75% water.Coolant has high surface tension which keeps the water from transferring heat to the radiator as easily.To break this tension people use additives to help the coolant/water mix transfer heat.There is a down side of running to little coolant.1)Lubrication of moving parts.2)Loss of protection of gaskets,plastic,and rubber parts.So far I have had no issues with running 25/75 mix.All of my cars are pushing 200,000 miles but I do have strict maintence practices.Another issue is colors of coolants.Each of the different colors of coolants are for a specific manufacture's engine.All of my vehicles except one runs the traditional green stuff that animals love to drink.One of my cars runs the orange extended life coolant.The reason for different types/colors of coolants is usually based on the materials that make up seals and gaskets.Some manufactures use silicone seals and these can not handle glycol based coolants.The seals and gaskets will break down, and essentially rot away in not many miles.I hope this helps someone.
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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-25-2010, 03:50 PM
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Im having issues. all of my other fords the coolant temp stays dead on the center of the gauge but this sc is kickin my butt. i had the radiator roded and cleaned. put new coolant. new thermostat new heat sensors. and my car still gets a lil on the hot side sitting at a stop. now moving its stays normal. but at a red light my needle hits the m in norm which worries me. bc i know sc 3.8 are infamous bout crackin heads and blowin head gaskets. i have noticed a lil bit i think too much pressure at operation temp on the top rad. hose. feels a lil stiff to me. the only thing that has not been replace is the water pump. and the fan works. it kicks on when it hits the m and cools it down in my garage but in the road i dont cool down till i get up to speed. any sugestions.
email me bc i will probally forget to check back here for a bit
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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-25-2010, 04:15 PM
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note: i left out during the winter it ran on the cool side would get up to mormal at stops and moving ran below the n in norm
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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 02:36 PM
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well crap... i just got done with the water pump and it still over heats slightly.. im stumped ive replaced everything.. i mean every thing someone please enlighten me
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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 01:23 AM
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air pockets

If air pockets are still present, how would one know? What symptoms would arise?
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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 06:29 AM
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when the engine is cold take off the rad cap. start it with the heat on full. and watch for air bubbles. rev the engine a little bit to get the coolant flowing.

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