Procedure For Cooling System Refill....3.8L - TCCoA Forums

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-27-2002, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: West Orange, NJ
Posts: 538
Procedure For Cooling System Refill....3.8L

Ok Here it Goes..Procedure for correct refill

Ok here it is...

1.) first the best time to do this is after the car has been sitting overnight (in the morning) so you can get all the coolant out.

2.)you must drain all the coolant from the system..just open the drain cock and let it all out....If you notice there is still some in the reservoir tank, then remove the little rubber hose that connects to the radiator and let the coolant from the reservoir drain.....Also it may help to remove the lower radiaitor hose and drain any fluid that still may be sitting in there.

3.)After it's all drained, Open the vent plug ( the bolt that almost sits over the T-Stat, It says Vent Plug on it.)

4.)Remove the Reservoir cap

5.)Remove the Radiator pressure cap

6.)with the engine off and cool, add a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water to the radiator until it is full

7.)Next (while the engine is still off and cool) add a 50/50 mixture to the reservoir until the coolant reaches the "Full Hot Level"

8.)Close the vent plug ( make sure it is tightened appropriately) Note: Closing the vent Plug is very important, otherwise you will have coolant everywhere after starting the car.
Also, reinstall the reservoir cap....Then reinstall the radiator pressure cap to the fully installed position, and then turn it back to the first stop.

9.)Start and idle the engine until the upper radiator hose is warm(this indicates that the t-stat is open and coolant is flowing through the entire system).

10.)Immediately shut off engine, and CAREFULLY and CAUTIOUSLY using a thick cloth remove the radiator presure cap and add a 50/50 mixture until the radiator is full. Then reinstall radiator cap fully and securely.

11.)Remove the reservoir cap and add a 50/50 mixture into the reservoir until it reaches the "Full Hot Level". Then reinstall the reservoir cap.

(Steps 10 and 11 are basically done to top off the levels of coolant to the rad and reservoir...Like all the other steps,They are very important)

Recheck the engine coolant after 1 or 2 occasions of using the vehicle.

I did the best i could with this and i hope it helps, if any questions feel free to ask.

The key is: removing the vent plug the reservoir cap and the radiator cap then filling the system, this ensures there is no air in the system.

BeirutsFinest

Last edited by BeirutsFinest; 12-29-2002 at 11:19 PM.
BeirutsFinest is offline  
post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-27-2002, 09:31 AM
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: North Jersey
Age: 32
Posts: 607
Sir William, This would make a good tech artical.


Jim

1993 LX 5.0
JSGAuto is offline  
post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-28-2002, 09:14 PM
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Age: 34
Posts: 72
coolant

Very good article. I think I am going to print it and try it one day. What do you think of premixed coolants?
Later.
Donnie

1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 - 3.8 V-6
1966 Dodge Charger - 361 c.i.
94XR7 is offline  
post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-28-2002, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: West Orange, NJ
Posts: 538
honestly

I would not get premixed coolants...because they are premixed at 50/50. Every place has a different climate...and some people may require more water than coolant, while others may require more coolant than water. While 50/50 is the safest way to go in any climate...I still would not trust a big time company to do the mixing for me...They don't drive my car and who knows how they mix it...I don't even let mechanics put coolant in for me...i mix it myself then put it in....

All they are doing is saving themselves money, cause they don't use as much coolant but they charge the same amount for a container....what happen to the other half? your paying the price of coolant for water. It's no big deal, but you know what i mean.

It's up to you...But I myself don't use it, nor do i use the red coolant.

BeirutsFinest

Last edited by BeirutsFinest; 12-29-2002 at 11:21 PM.
BeirutsFinest is offline  
post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-28-2002, 11:55 PM
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 75
Actually around here they charge a dollar more for the pre-mixed stuff. That crazy. Also the red coolent is called Dex-cool. Stay far away from it, it eats headgaskets and is hard on the waterpump. Stick with the green stuff, it's the best.

1992 3.8 Thunderbird
3.8_Special is offline  
post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-29-2002, 04:17 PM
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: North Jersey
Age: 32
Posts: 607
Email this to Jim (not me the Jim that runs the njtacc web site) He was looking for tech articales.


Jim

1993 LX 5.0
JSGAuto is offline  
post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-30-2002, 09:48 PM
PCD
Confirmed V6 Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Dubuque, Iowa
Age: 60
Posts: 2,261
Question

Anyone ever hear of blue colored coolant? I got some from a chain called Thiessen's. Says it is for aluminum radiators. That is what I replaced the origninal, rotted out piece of junk with.

I don't want to screw the car up. I've got it running fairly well now.
PCD is offline  
post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-30-2002, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: West Orange, NJ
Posts: 538
I Would Not

I never heard of blue coolant, personally i wouldn't mess with it....stick to the stuff you know, your car is running fine with it along with every other car in the world

BeirutsFinest
BeirutsFinest is offline  
post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-01-2002, 12:39 PM
Veteran Poster
 
CamellionCat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Miami
Age: 35
Posts: 801
Send a message via AIM to CamellionCat
beirutsfinest....... Marvin M here, whats up

dude whats up, hey something ive been meaning to ask you, what degree t-stat are you running, b/c im running a 197, is this the right one???? or should i get me a 195????? thanks for the help dude. B/c the higher the t-stat is the longer it will take the fan to come on right??????

Marvin M.

95- Cougar- SOLD (in loving memory)
Mods-17x9 cobra r's,H&R springs,KYB shocks & struts,removed air silencer,9"K&N cone,gutted cats,dual glasspack setup,cooling fan switch, B&M 24,000 tranny cooler.

Back in the game!!!
97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC-opal opalescent with black interior, upgraded with a 98 tranny, 18x9 black saleen speedstars, LMS dual tip mufflers, 5% tints all around.
CamellionCat is offline  
post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-01-2002, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: West Orange, NJ
Posts: 538
What's up Marvin...

I don't know about you....but this temp problem is driving me nuts, I'm going crazy trying to figure out what it is.

I still have to clean the A/C condenser, but i think i can do it without removing the rad, someone on the board told me it's not neccessary...all i have to do is wiggle a hose in there.

The T-stat your running (197) is correct, but this t-stat has nothing to do with the fan....The t-stat opens up when your engine temp reaches 197 degrees in order to let the coolant flow to keep the engine cool.......The fan however is programmed to turn on at a programmed temperature for both high and low speeds. It's function is seperate from the t-stat.........The only thing related to the fan is the temp sending unit, the EEC and the IRCM.........remember i tested my EEC, and got a code of 111(system pass).
Let me know how you make out, and I'll definitely keep you updated....
One of us eventually will figure this thing out,
Just keep in mind, after this problem is fixed, you'll probably become a cooling expert.

BeirutsFinest
BeirutsFinest is offline  
post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-01-2002, 06:44 PM
Veteran Poster
 
CamellionCat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Miami
Age: 35
Posts: 801
Send a message via AIM to CamellionCat
dude yeah i know what your talking bout.

im sick of this also, im ready to get rid or this car, but whats keeping me back from doing it, is the rare paint job from ford. i have the purple/blue camellion paint job and its in perfect condition, so thats why im trying my hardest to fix the problem. Aparently we are not the only ones having this problem, i was reading up in the supercoupe section and theirs this dude with the same problem as us. Tommorrow after work im going to clean out the a/c condensor, ill let you know how this turns out.

Marvin M.

95- Cougar- SOLD (in loving memory)
Mods-17x9 cobra r's,H&R springs,KYB shocks & struts,removed air silencer,9"K&N cone,gutted cats,dual glasspack setup,cooling fan switch, B&M 24,000 tranny cooler.

Back in the game!!!
97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC-opal opalescent with black interior, upgraded with a 98 tranny, 18x9 black saleen speedstars, LMS dual tip mufflers, 5% tints all around.
CamellionCat is offline  
post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 12:49 PM
1st Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Corona Ca.
Age: 43
Posts: 28
I have to do this this weekend, So I am gonna give it a shot.

Confused as to a few steps, let me clarify:

When you fire the car up, you want to put the radiator cap on all the way, but immediately back it off to where it is loose? (step 8) Would that not spray coolant everywhere not being tightened all the way?

Step 10, you left out reopening the vent plug again. Are you supposed to open the vent plug first, then refill?

Thanks. I am getting intermitent temperature fluctuations after changing my water pump which can likely be explaned by air pockets.

Jeremy

1994 3.8 tbird
1986 5.0 Mustang Gt Convertible
1972 302 Ford Maverick
jeremy is offline  
post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: West Orange, NJ
Posts: 538
No....

Jeremy, In step #8, backing off on the rad cap will NOT spray coolant everywhere....Let me explain: Look at steps 9, and 10.... step 9 says "start the engine until the upper rad hose gets warm, that means the coolant is flowing"....then step 10 says "IMMEDIATELY turn off the engine" ( this means once the upper rad hose gets warm, you need to immediately shut off the engine).....this ensures that the car doesn't get too hot and build up pressure and spraying coolant Ok?.......Make sure you read all the steps completely.

Now to your question in step 10....No you do not need to remove the vent plug....Cause your only topping off the coolant level.....Once you reinstall the vent plug the first time, you do not need to take it off again when you top off the coolant.

Hope this helps clarify things....Feel free to ask anymore questions.
BeirutsFinest
BeirutsFinest is offline  
post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 09:19 PM
ice_nyne
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
would these same directions apply to V8s? n/m

ice_nyne
post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-17-2002, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: West Orange, NJ
Posts: 538
I Believe

I believe it's the same.....However, I would double check that.

BeirutsFinest
BeirutsFinest is offline  
post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2002, 05:13 AM
Veteran Poster
 
CamellionCat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Miami
Age: 35
Posts: 801
Send a message via AIM to CamellionCat
ohhh mannnnn i never topped off the coolant.

i just put the vent plug on, rad cap on, resouviur tank cap on, and started the engine and left. i never did those last steps. Im going to do this, this weekend.

Marvin M.

95- Cougar- SOLD (in loving memory)
Mods-17x9 cobra r's,H&R springs,KYB shocks & struts,removed air silencer,9"K&N cone,gutted cats,dual glasspack setup,cooling fan switch, B&M 24,000 tranny cooler.

Back in the game!!!
97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC-opal opalescent with black interior, upgraded with a 98 tranny, 18x9 black saleen speedstars, LMS dual tip mufflers, 5% tints all around.
CamellionCat is offline  
post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-13-2002, 04:14 PM
4th Gear Poster
 
projectmayhem021's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Lynn,MA
Age: 36
Posts: 237
Send a message via AIM to projectmayhem021
where is the drain cock, on the 4.6?
arent you supposed to drain the engine block as well?

-Brendan

"So far, this is the oldest I've been"-George Carlin

1994 Black Thunderbird SC

Last edited by projectmayhem021; 11-13-2002 at 04:37 PM.
projectmayhem021 is offline  
post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-13-2002, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
6th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: West Orange, NJ
Posts: 538
Yes

the drain cock on the 4.6L is in the sam place (On the lower passenger side of the radiator)...On the 4.6L I am not sure...but I believe that you are supposed to drain from the engine block as well....but not sure where the bolt is located.

BeirutsFinest
BeirutsFinest is offline  
post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-27-2002, 11:45 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Rolling-Thunder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Albany, NY
Age: 55
Posts: 3,247
Dr. FrankenCougie has done an excellent write-up on how to properly re-fill the 4.6L engine. There is no vent plug on the 4.6's, so you have to remove the heater hose at pass. side rear of intake, and also remove the T-stat housing, to allow the air to escape while re-filling.

I am not aware of having to open any 'drain plugs' on the engine block.

I have drained my system using the radiator drain only.

Steve - TCCoA member
2003 Crown Vic LX Sport
1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
Thanks for the ride !
Rolling-Thunder is offline  
post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 03:23 PM
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Texas
Age: 37
Posts: 82
I always followed the common method of filling it using the drain and radiator cap only, then starting the car with the radiator cap off completely - when it starts to flow, you can watch the coolant level dip (not with your head over it, but from standing a comfortable distance away) then top it off and keep topping it off until it starts to come out the top, then slap that radiator plug on it, and turn the engine off.

Joshua Cooper

1997 Black T-Bird LX 3.8, custom painted interior, hand stitched vinyl backseat, oversized K&N cone filter, air silencer removed, painted some engine components, door solenoids for shaved door handles, Black Widow security system, wired to open Driver's door when disarmed, Dynomax 2.5" exhaust, battery box moved to trunk, custom grill inserts
Richter12x2 is offline  
post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-17-2003, 01:42 PM
PostWhore
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Bucks County, PA
Age: 36
Posts: 1,293
Quote:
Originally posted by PCD
Anyone ever hear of blue colored coolant? ....
BMW uses Blue coolant.

'97 T-bird LX - 4.6L
The weekend car I never drive

'06 Mustang GT
The Daily
Jack K is offline  
post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-04-2003, 05:01 PM
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Columbus, IN USA
Age: 37
Posts: 115
Having done this a couple times recently, I appreciate the procedure, just recently noticed it's also in the owners manual

I'd have only done it once, but I'll be danged if my radiator didn't crap out earlier this week, so I replaced it.

No plastic tanks for me anymore
johnwartjr is offline  
post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 12:25 AM
1st Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Nova Scotia
Age: 42
Posts: 25
Send a message via AIM to Canadianthunder
I have another tip that might help you in getting all the air out of your cooling systems. Raise the front end of the car on ramps or jack stands. Getting the rad higher then the engine helps the air to flow upward in the system and help eliminate air pockets in the system. I know on some of the older models of BMW with a low slope to the hood it is a part of the factory flush and fill procedure.
Canadianthunder is offline  
post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 05-29-2004, 01:01 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Champlin, Mn.
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Lightbulb

Hi, just to add to this...I'm located in Mn., the blue coolant has been avalable for years up here, it's just a color thing...the yellow/blue or whatever is only a die added the help identify the type of liquid...otherwise for example..transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant, powersteering fluid would all look the same and would be hard to tell what was leaking...or spaying all over you or whatever!
IdoXLr8 is offline  
post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-30-2005, 01:57 PM
2nd Gear Poster
 
MeanGene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: California
Age: 61
Posts: 84
Many of us have not followed this procedure, how can we tell if there is something that we still need to do?

I usually just filled up the radiator and then added coolant to the overflow container as needed assuming that the system would bleed itself of any air.

The reason I ask is the water temp gauge will suddenly swing to the hot side for no apperant reason. All else being cool.

Last edited by MeanGene; 01-30-2005 at 05:50 PM.
MeanGene is offline  
post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 11:39 AM
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
white lincoln's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 945
Send a message via MSN to white lincoln
Here is how I do my cars:
1) Drain the fluid when its cold, close up the petcock
2) Hook a garden hose up to a heater hose
3) Hook a another hose up to the other end of the heater oultet
4) Remove the t-stat (buy another one, they should be replaced when you flush your radiator anyway) put the t-stat fittings back together
5) Turn the heater on to high,
6) Turn on the water, not high, just turn it on
7) Start the engine and let it run for about 15 minutes until the engine is warm
8) Turn off the engine, and the water
9) Open the petcock again and drain the system
10) Open the vent plug
11) Install the new radiator t-stat
12) Re-connect the heater hose and tighten the petcock
13) Fill the radiator with new anti-freeze and water
14) Fill the resevoir
15) Start the car with the heater on and let it run for a while or drive it to the store and back
16) Fill the resevoir as needed.
17) Now wait a week or so to add more fluid because it is loosing fluid somewhere, it's a 3.8l
18) A month later, fill with more radiator fluid because it is still loosing fluid... damn 3.8l's!!!

Last edited by white lincoln; 08-17-2005 at 12:38 AM.
white lincoln is offline  
post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-25-2005, 11:35 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Detroit Lakes, Mn
Age: 40
Posts: 12
There is a filling adapter that can be purchased for filling a radiator. It has a large cup and adapters that fasten to whare the rad. cap goes. I just put enough coolant mix to keep air out. After the thermostat opens and the level goes up in the cup, I have coolant ready to add as soon as the level drops to top off the system. Then remove the tool and install the rad. cap.
G-Man is offline  
post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 06:52 PM
6th Gear Poster
 
Lithsanatrex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Evansville, IN
Age: 32
Posts: 608
Send a message via MSN to Lithsanatrex
is it gonna caus ea lot of problems if i use 100% antifreeze? i did that on my last cougar and ii havent yet changed coolant on the one i have now (thinking th waterpumpis goin out so ill have it changed when i replace that). will it casue any premature corrosion or anything of the like?
Lithsanatrex is offline  
post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 05:05 PM
3rd Gear Poster
 
foobarbigtime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Neustadt
Age: 38
Posts: 180
Send a message via MSN to foobarbigtime Send a message via Yahoo to foobarbigtime
How often should the cooling system fluid be replaced?

No Mods as of yet.... Just trying to keep her on the road
foobarbigtime is offline  
post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 07:30 PM
2nd Gear Poster
 
MeanGene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: California
Age: 61
Posts: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lithsanatrex
is it gonna caus ea lot of problems if i use 100% antifreeze? i did that on my last cougar and ii havent yet changed coolant on the one i have now (thinking th waterpumpis goin out so ill have it changed when i replace that). will it casue any premature corrosion or anything of the like?
The coolant is meant to be mixed at around a 50/50 ratio. You will not get the best performance or better by adding it straight. I don't think that it will cause any corrosion problems, but your car may run a little hotter. Replace the water pump, belts and refill with the proper water/coolant mixture.

Last edited by MeanGene; 07-12-2006 at 07:37 PM.
MeanGene is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome