AOD Cruise Control ? - TCCoA Forums

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Question AOD Cruise Control ?

Search didn't seem to show this, so I'll ask in here...

When I'm using cruise control and the car is going downhill or an incline when it reaches the set speed after a few seconds I'll feel a slight jolt, then a few seconds later it'll get back to normal.
It seems when the car is coasting, eventually the tranny will "kick out"...

The RPM's don't change so it's not shifting down, it feels like maybe the torque converter is disengaging? I don't know enough about this AOD to say for sure.

Besides that, it seems to shift fine in other driving. The TV cable appears to be set correctly...

I do wonder if the TV cable needs to be moved forward a LITTLE bit?

Thoughts welcome!

Thanks,
N
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Neutral Safety Switch?
cruise cable on TB maybe not set correctly?
Vacuum loss? I do notice the power brakes are JUST a little heavy...

This car is a learning experience.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Still doing it...doesn't have to be in cruise either. If I am going down an incline and I let off the gas, after a few seconds of coasting I'll feel it shudder and the car feels like it's pushing against something, it's not a lower gear, the RPM's don't rise. The moment I give it gas, it'll "pop" back and act normal.

I'm going to have a flush done on it, does anyone know the part number for the pressure regulator valve and the bypass clutch control valve (Does mine even have those?)...

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 12:08 PM
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That doesn't sound like a transmission issue to me. The AOD has a mechanically engaged torque converter clutch in 3rd and 4th, so it can't unlock and re-lock the converter. If the trans was slipping, the rpms would change. It sounds to me like something is loose in the driveline somewhere. I would say first check your U-joints, diff mounts, and trans mount.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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nothing loose as far as I can tell... but can't hurt to get under it and look.

I do need to flush it though, as I have no idea when it would have been done if at all...
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 03:04 PM
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The AOD should have a drain plug on the converter, so rather than flushing it, drop the pan to change the filter, and drain the TC separately.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90SC 5-speed, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, soon to be transplanted into...
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 04:01 PM
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Looking at the magnet in the pan will tell you a lot about your transmission.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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if I drop the pan, can I turn the converter manually to expose the drain plug?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 06:47 PM
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Yes. Just put a ratchet on the crank pulley and turn the engine over until it shows.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90SC 5-speed, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, soon to be transplanted into...
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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might have Goodyear do it when they do my 4 wheel alignment and double check the tire balances as I still get a 70mph'ish vibration.

Did it again today too.. Moved the TV cable forwards 2 clicks to see if that would help...nada... I do want to get it fixed cause if I can feel in in the car the forces involved should be rather HIGH
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-02-2017, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE 6-2-17

It seems my throttle position sensor was the culprit. I swapped it out for a new one, and the coasting/cruise control shudder is gone. I went for a good long drive to ensure proper engine temp and it had no shudder I could feel. I began to suspect it wasn't the transmission at all. I just had the transmission rebuilt and it was still doing it. Glad I had it rebuilt, it's now future proofed and smooth as silk. Worth it since I had the TV cable grommet fall off and I drove for too long with it off.

So, as I drove it more, it seemed it wasn't the tranny torque converter locking/unlocking (I'm told they don't do that in an AOD??), but the reverse, for some reason the engine was becoming the load and with the SLIGHTEST application of throttle it'd shudder and go back to being normal. Plan 1 was to adjust the throttle cable to see if removing slack would help, but I'd seen an online video on YouTube where a gentleman was having throttle response problems and modified his TPS after discovering that the voltage was too low it its idle position. So I figured, buy a new one, pop it in and see what happens... BOOM... problem gone. Tranny runs smoothly, when coasting down long inclines I feel no shudder or jolts.

I had to remove the IAC to get to the TPS, and it didn't want go back on without some fight, but it's on there tight too.

I suspect my TPS was heatsoaked from years of use and just worn out. 24 year old parts don't last forever.

Anyway, if this helps you in your search for shudder resolution, I'm happy to help!

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-02-2017, 06:28 PM
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Didn't know you had the tranny rebuilt, what kind of shape was it in?

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