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post #1 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Ok MM, I thought I saw an M5R2 sticky unless I was mistaken. Im starting this thread because I dont want to intrude on the other guys auto thread. I'm gathering parts for my 5 speed swap. I have one in the garage now out of a 93. I would've loved to have gotten a 94/5 one but those are a little hard to find. I just ordered a factory clutch set made by Perfection Clutches here at Advance Auto. I have the clutch and the brake pedals from an SC. I have the cover plate for tranny tunnel, clutch master cylinder resevoir and new slave cylinder all from an SC. Already swapped in the 3.27 SC diff. I have on order a 95 F-150 flywheel, starter and clutch fluid line. Im going to the salvage yard to try and find a 5 speed driveshaft. Is there anything else I am missing and is there anything ya'll would upgrade before it goes in besides the synchros. Last I looked (alomst a year ago) there were quite a few sensors on the 5 speed trans. Know what they all are? Thanks for any and all input guys!

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post #2 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 09:25 AM
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I don't think the F150 clutch line will work, I think you need one from an SC, or a custom one. Not completely necessary, but having the transmission wiring harness for the SC makes it a little easier since it becomes simply plug and play, but you can also modify the auto harness to work. Just going through, do you have the separator plate that goes between the trans and the engine? How about the flywheel bolts, as they are longer than the flexplate bolts. B&M ripper shifter? This is a huge upgrade and well worth doing while you do the swap. If you don't have one, I do have an extra I can sell. 5-speed console top? Handbrake setup (not required, but makes it a cleaner install)? Other than that, I think you've got everything.

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post #3 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Gotta get a separator plate from an SC? Gotta get the flywheel bolts. The console top, is that the whole center console or just a peice that covers the shifter? And last but not least, is the B&M shifter a 45070 part number? Thanks

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post #4 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Oh..... how much for your extra shifter MM? And do you have a picture of a factory clutch line? Im looking at some on ebay and im finding some steel braided ones for bout 50 bucks and I hear the steel braided ones give you a better clutch feel. It just doesnt give a clear discription if its for an SC or not.

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post #5 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, having a little trouble running down a seperater plate. What exactly is the function of that plate? If it is just for spacing can I use fitted washers on each bell housing bolt to create the space needed? This car will never see rain or snow so im not really worried of anything flying up in there. May help keep the clutch cooler as well! Thanks!

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post #6 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 10:52 AM
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I would use the automatic separator plate before using washers. Sorry about not getting back to you about the shifter, I just saw this now. I could do $150 shipped for the shifter. I'll have to look in my garage and see if I have a spare clutch line to take a picture of for you. I'm not aware of any aftermarket direct fit ones being available for our cars, but one could be made to work. The biggest issue with a braided stainless line is the disconnect to drop the trans. The master and slave cylinders both have the same style fitting for the line to attach, but the slave also has a quick-disconnect fitting to be able to unhook the line and drop the trans. If you run the braided stainless line, you will need to disconnect the line at the master cylinder in order to be able to drop the trans, or you will have to make a 2-piece line with an AN fitting in the middle to be able to break the line to drop the trans. I think S4gunn did something like that on his Lemons tbird, and he might be able to give you part numbers for what he used.

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post #7 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 12:48 PM
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1) Read my DIY on my 5.0 swap. I go over your different flywheel/starter options. I picked going with the 95 F150 route b/c it was the most cost effective option to get a setup that works with the 5.0's 50oz imbalance. When I had my old 3.8N/A, my the SC flywheel was a better fit.

2) As far as the clutch line is concerned, I had one made at a local hydraulic shop with a compression fitting 1/2 way down the 4' line. This set me back ~$75 locally and was totally worth it as I can now disconnect the transmission without crawling under and trying to disconnect the often-gummed up "quick disconnect" fitting on the hydraulic slave that's INSIDE the bellhousing.

You basically install it with the push pins at each end and trans removal is a snap. While the long may require you to ziptie some excess to the side, the bonus of having a long line is that it can allow the transmission to drop down to the floor without tearing the line (learned that lesson once)

Mine was purchased from Royal Brass in San Jose. (408) 297-6642. I think someone else was able to get these folks to mail order them the line they needed but you'll have to call to check

(2) Hydraulic clutch Lines - transmission to compression fitting and master cyl to compression fitting
Clutch Slave to Compression fitting BQ303HF35HFIM28-24.00
Clutch Master to Compression fitting BQ303HF62HF09-24.00
You will also need (4) sleeves for the SS lines to each connector BQ251SV

- I do seem to recall that there might have been a male/female mishap in the part numbers I had written down at one time (not sure if I fixed it). If you do decide to order a line, ask them to confirm that these two pieces quoted will screw into each other (they will be able to tell by looking at the part numbers).
- If you use the hydraulic line I spec'd out or the SC hydraulic line, you will need to also use the SC and not the F150 Slave Hydraulic Clutch (the donut that goes into the bellhousing). I learned from experience that even if the F150 clutch slave is a little cheaper, the spacing on the fitting is different so a SC clutch line won't work with the F150 clutch slave.

3) Other people have reported that a clutch line from a Viper works as well. Centric #15163001 (mislabeled at Rockauto as a brake line). While it's SS and a little longer than the SC one (plus), it's also ~$130. Since it has the same crappy not-so-quick detach fitting, you are left with the same PITA to remove problem that my custom hydraulic line fixed -- for less money, too.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...ch-lines/page5

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post #8 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 12:53 PM
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I agree with Mad Mikey and if by seperator plate you mean the scatter shield, you will want it.
This shield will also prevent road scuzz oil/etc from contaminating your flywheel/clutch surface.

If you mean the scatter shields, I have 3 or 4 of them. I can take a pic and you can have one (or all of them) for a few bucks + shipping if you want. I just want to clear out my garage now.

One more thing I learned: if you do decide to go the F150 route, test fit the starter before putting it on the car as you may need to enlarge the hole in the scattershield for the raised lip of the starter. The starter will still be aligned in the right position because of its' mounting bolts but I found that the scattershield I used was ever so slightly off in position and the start wouldn't mount without either a) grinding the shield or b) grinding the lip. If the engine is already on the car, you really only have one choice (grind the starter) as you don't want all sorts of grit inside the bellhousing contaminating the flywheel/clutch.

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post #9 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-14-2015, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLINTHUNDER View Post
Oh..... how much for your extra shifter MM? And do you have a picture of a factory clutch line? Im looking at some on ebay and im finding some steel braided ones for bout 50 bucks and I hear the steel braided ones give you a better clutch feel. It just doesnt give a clear discription if its for an SC or not.
This is a factory hydraulic clutch line from a super coupe.





This is the end at the master that connects with a roll pin.


This is the 'quick release' at the slave. The aftermarket slaves have two different connections. You want to buy the OEM style one, or just swap over the old connector.



Rockauto shows THIS clutch line available. They don't show a picture, and I know nothing about it.

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post #10 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-14-2015, 11:58 AM
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If you go the custom route, the factory quick release fitting at the clutch slave is replaced with something that looks similar to the end that goes into the master but it goes in straight vs at 90 degrees. It attaches to the clutch slave in a similar fashion -- you push it in and a pin slots through behind the first disc shape protrusion of the male fitting. the pin prevents the fitting from falling back out.

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post #11 of 98 (permalink) Old 08-17-2015, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply guys. Alot of good info! I will continue to look for the seperator plate then. That's a good idea on the quick release fittings for the middle of the clutch line. I will look into doing that.

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post #12 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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So S4gunn is sending me a scattershield gratefully. Now, as far as the little things for the trans. I notice it has a few little sensors or plugs on it im not familiar with. I know the speedo sensor but not the rest. Anyone have a list of names of the sensors on this thing and do i use the speed sensor from the auto or from the M5R2? Thanks!

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post #13 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 06:51 AM
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post #14 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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What does the 5th gear switch do and is that the proper name for it? I want to replace all the sensors before i put it in. Im also thinking of buying a rebuild kit with synchros and rebuilding it myself as long as there is no special like tolerances and what not. Does anyone have experience in rebuilding one of these and if so how difficult was it? Thanks!! Awesome pic Rayo btw!

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post #15 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 05:13 PM
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What does the 5th gear switch do and is that the proper name for it? I want to replace all the sensors before i put it in.Thanks!! Awesome pic Rayo btw!
You're Welcome..


On the SuperCoupes..The 5th Gear Switch turns on the upshift light at 3900rpm in 5th gear..Some M5R2 transmissions have the 5th Gear Switch, some do not..

IMO..If it's on the donor transmission just leave the switch in place to keep that hole plugged..You won't have a harness to plug into it anyways..

On the early SuperCoupes that came equipped with the 5th Gear Switch..
Actually getting the upshift light to come on in 5th gear at 3900rpm was your last warning you were driving too fuking fast!

If my math is right that would be around 150mph!






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post #16 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
You're Welcome..


On the SuperCoupes..The 5th Gear Switch turns on the upshift light at 3900rpm in 5th gear..Some M5R2 transmissions have the 5th Gear Switch, some do not..

IMO..If it's on the donor transmission just leave the switch in place to keep that hole plugged..You won't have a harness to plug into it anyways..

On the early SuperCoupes that came equipped with the 5th Gear Switch..
Actually getting the upshift light to come on in 5th gear at 3900rpm was your last warning you were driving too fuking fast!

If my math is right that would be around 150mph!




Rayo..
Actually you have that backwards. The 5th gear switch disables the upshift light from coming on when you are in 5th. And yes, when I topped out my 89XR7 years ago, it was like 4100rpms or something, which calculated out to 157mph.

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post #17 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 07:01 AM
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Actually you have that backwards. The 5th gear switch disables the upshift light from coming on when you are in 5th.
Not according to Dave Dalke..
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7 Dave
5spd's have a 5th gear switch. This switch will turn on your upshift light at 3900rpm in 5th only.
My understanding is if you've reached 3900rpm in 5th gear..
The upshift light comes on more or less as a warning to let you know bad things are going to happen soon if you don't let off the "go pedal"..
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68COUGAR
My '89 5-spd XR-7 has the upshift light & it works.
With the 2.73 gears I NEVER saw the upshift light come on, even running flat out in Germany.
Now that I have 3.27 gears, I get the upshift light in 5th. gear @ approx 4K rpm.
Maybe you're just not driving fast enough Mikey..






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post #18 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-14-2015, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Whats your opinion on Royal Purple gear oil vs Synchromesh? I also noticed that Synchromesh doesnt show a weight so if Royal Purple is the way to go what weight should I use? 75w90?

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post #19 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Having no luck with the dash. I have everything I can think of taken off of it. The passenger side seems ready to come off but the drivers side is still firmly secured. I got both the nuts and the bolts removed from behind the weather stripping and kick panel on the drivers side. I have all the top bolts removed and the two bottom center nuts. The steering column is down. Bulkhead plug pushed through. It looks like there is two pieces to the dash. A thin skeleton and then a main heavy duty piece behind it that runs across the center. I read where there is supposedly two 13mm bolts on each side of the dash but I havnt ran across any 13mm anything other than the steering column. Where am i missing these things at??

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post #20 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 01:37 PM
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It may look like there is 2 pieces to the dash, but trust me don't remove any extra nuts/bolts on the dash or the dash could crack while you're trying to remove it..

The first time I pulled the dash I did the same thing, and pulled a bunch of extra nuts/bolts..
Only to find out later there is only a few fasteners that you need to remove to remove the dash..

You only have to remove the fasteners I have circled in these pics:






You can find a little more information on pulling the dash here: Dash Swap Questions






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post #21 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rayo. I found that very same pic right after i wrote that lol. Im getting ready to mount the clutch pedal now. Question, I know the one nub on the clutch pedal is for the rod that geos to the master cylinder. There is another rod on there that I dont remember what it goes to. Do you know what that one is and do I absolutly have to have that one? Thanks Ray!

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post #22 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 03:10 PM
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The dowel on the left side is for the master cyl pushrod. The one on the right is for the switch.

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post #23 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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The switch is there just to keep you from starting it while its in gear correct? So I really dont need that one. Got both the brake pedal and the clutch pedal mounted now. The brake pedal was a little different than the original so I hope it works ok.

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post #24 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 07:47 PM
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It prevents you from starting it without the clutch depressed (which I always bypass anyway) and also if wired in right, it will disengage cruise control when you press the clutch in. Either way, both things you don't really need.

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post #25 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Anything else I should do in there while I have the dash out?
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post #26 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 10:33 AM
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How old is your heater core?

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post #27 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 12:14 PM
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Thoroughly check the firewall to make sure there are no cracks starting, and if they are, weld them up now.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90SC 5-speed, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, soon to be transplanted into...
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-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
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post #28 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 04:54 PM
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How old is your heater core?
Yeah; these cars are old now.

OP, you should think hard about swapping it while you have it out.

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post #29 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have to have the dash out when time comes to get the shifter in do I? Just the middle console?
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post #30 of 98 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 10:22 PM
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No, you don't need the dash out for the shifter.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90SC 5-speed, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, soon to be transplanted into...
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-70 Torino GT Fastback project car. Needs EFI and a manual trans, but I'm not sure what motor to go with yet.
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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