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post #91 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 06:20 PM
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Correct.

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post #92 of 108 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 06:25 PM
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Good deal!

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post #93 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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yes lucky for us surviving mn12s, the shells are the same

I think I may have a pedal. Guy in jersey is parting an SC car. We shall see, I am in line.
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post #94 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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More Information for SACHS SH6043

that is the slave for a 95 S10 4cylinder. This is all you need from the S10 parts end? Or do I need other things?

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L AWD - Cooling work, a big sound system, an exhaust, 3.5" IRO lift on 31s
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post #95 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 10:42 AM
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Yep that's it. Everything else you need to use with it can be sourced from your local hardware store - threaded rod, nuts, plate steel for the bracket, etc.

-Matt
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post #96 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 02:54 PM
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Manual Supercoupe at LKQ Huntsville,AL

Was there yesterday. Shifter still in car minus knob. Assume transmission and pedals still in it. Didn't really check. Did check axle code and it is "M". A picture of it can be pulled up online.
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post #97 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 04:00 PM
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Guaranteed you could make a couple hundred bucks pulling the pedals, I'd have just grabbed them on the spot if I were you. The yards don't charge much for pedals, maybe $40 for both clutch and brake.
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post #98 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 01:45 AM
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Engine was in it minus supercharger.
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post #99 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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madmikey has my pedals.

I finally have a garage spot to mess with again to. So this is going to happen.

The IDI is first, head gaskets are pushing coolant externally. So cam, head studs, maybe a turbo upgrade and IC for her first, with some needed front suspension trickery also.

That may take a while. I hope not, I have a lot of parts to go on that.
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1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX
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2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L AWD - Cooling work, a big sound system, an exhaust, 3.5" IRO lift on 31s
1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDIT
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post #100 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 01:58 AM
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Manual 1990 Supercoupe at LKQ Huntsville, AL

Blue supercoupe with supercharger, engine, transmission, shifter, pedals minus rubber pads all still there. Missing wheels, tires, driver seat, instrument cluster, radio.
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post #101 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 06:42 PM
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Blue supercoupe with supercharger, engine, transmission, shifter, pedals minus rubber pads all still there. Missing wheels, tires, driver seat, instrument cluster, radio.
Will you pull the pedals out and ship?

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post #102 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 12:59 AM
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I'm 45 minutes from there. I couldn't get a good read on what's involved in getting the pedals out. It's been there since 2/15, so there must not be too many people looking for those parts in this area. Does the supercharger have much value? It spins freely. I may try to get the rearend for my car. I have a 97 4.6 LX auto. What are the pedals worth if I can get them out? Like I said earlier it is just bare pedals without the rubber pads. Airbox is missing. Rest of supercharger, throttle body and plumbing from airbox through supercharger and into throttle body still there as of this past Saturday.
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post #103 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 10:23 AM
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Could probably sell the clutch pedal for $200 alone, brake pedal $50ish. Pads don't matter, they can be modified to accept Mustang pads pretty easily. Supercharger is worthless unless it's a 94/5, rear end probably has 2.73s in it so the only desirable part from it would be the Trac lok
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post #104 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstnmcgl View Post
I couldn't get a good read on what's involved in getting the pedals out.
See this post: sc clutch peddle
Quote:
Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
As an update:

I didn't have to pull the dash at all. If you pull the cluster, there is a black hose that leads to the driver side vent. Just behind that hose is the top 13mm bolt for the clutch pedal. If you're in the junkyard, just rip that hose out and use a 13mm ratchet wrench. Then pop off the arm for the master and remove it from the firewall side (1/4 turn counter-clockwise). Unplug the clutch sensor under the dash. Remove 3x 10mm (iirc) nuts on firewall side. This is where it gets tricky - use something to push the pedal bracket back into the dash until the 3 studs are clear of the firewall. It takes some finesse for sure, but do-able. I used a 3' crow-bar and a 4lb sledge. That sounds extreme, but it takes some effort to clear the top stud.

I got 2 pedals out un-harmed using that method.
If that wasn't at the opposite end of the state, I'd have already known about it and probably gutted it.
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post #105 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 01:19 PM
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It is "m", so I guess you're right. I guess that would be the thing to do is just add the trac lock to my 3.27 gears.
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post #106 of 108 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 01:31 PM
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I'm 45 minutes from there. I couldn't get a good read on what's involved in getting the pedals out. It's been there since 2/15, so there must not be too many people looking for those parts in this area. Does the supercharger have much value? It spins freely. I may try to get the rearend for my car. I have a 97 4.6 LX auto. What are the pedals worth if I can get them out? Like I said earlier it is just bare pedals without the rubber pads. Airbox is missing. Rest of supercharger, throttle body and plumbing from airbox through supercharger and into throttle body still there as of this past Saturday.
Could probably sell the clutch pedal for $200 alone, brake pedal $50ish. Pads don't matter, they can be modified to accept Mustang pads pretty easily. Supercharger is worthless unless it's a 94/5, rear end probably has 2.73s in it so the only desirable part from it would be the Trac lok
I'd pay you at least the $250+ shipping for both the clutch and brake pedal combo. What other hardware is involved with an MT swap? I know there's a plate of some sort on the firewall or something that goes with it all as well?

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'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness

'00 2dr v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Greddy SP2 CAT-Back | Eibach ProKit springs | Eibach F/R Sway Bars | KYB-GR2 struts
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post #107 of 108 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CDsDontBurn View Post
I'd pay you at least the $250+ shipping for both the clutch and brake pedal combo. What other hardware is involved with an MT swap? I know there's a plate of some sort on the firewall or something that goes with it all as well?
I believe you two should take this to PM, I don't want to get out of focus from my original discusion about stick swaps into 4.6L cars.

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L AWD - Cooling work, a big sound system, an exhaust, 3.5" IRO lift on 31s
1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDIT
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post #108 of 108 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Got this started a few weekends ago. My wife got a puppy, so I have not been able to get out there and fully pull the heads off the dowels and check the bottom end.

Cam and head studs to come as long as the bottom end is ok.

Tbird is next. I am going to do a fender, run power doors (got some local ones cheap), and my 40 gallon tanks and fuel lines.
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1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L AWD - Cooling work, a big sound system, an exhaust, 3.5" IRO lift on 31s
1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDIT
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