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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: MN
Car: 97 Cougar
Engine: 4 dot six
Posts: 13
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Experience with nitrous...
What plugs should I be running with a 75 shot? I have a tune on the car and Im running 1 step colder plugs...should I drop it down to 2 step colder?
So far I have not detonated or run into any issues. But I want to be sure that Im not setting myself up for a failure. (I know it could happen) Just want to compare with others....opinions welcome. What are you guys running? |
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#2 |
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PostSlut
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Spring Texas
Car: 9573 T-bird T-bird
Engine: 5.8L 7.5L
Age: 29
Posts: 10,154
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Run some NGK TR6's.
they are 1 step cooler than stock, and should be fine for a 75 shot.
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Talk is cheap! Take your car to the track and PROVE your point!
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#3 |
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5th Gear Poster
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i run the zex power racer plugs in my cougar with the 125 shot
mike
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1990 ford f150 5.0 1990 cougar xr-7 5spd 5.0 1989 mustang gt 10.68@126.97 1984 tbird 5.0 auto |
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#4 | |
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Needs more Boost
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: West Seneca NY
Car: 1995 Thunderbird PI SVO
Engine: 04 PI SVO
Age: 26
Posts: 3,869
95xbird's Arcade Awards
Chopper Challenge
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04 PI swap,SVO Supercharger 8-9 psi,Alcohol injection,Cobra injectors,XCal2-Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump,3.73 gears,Built 4R70W,3500 dirtydog stall,Hayden Trans Cooler,superior shift,70mm T/B,SCP Cold Air Intake,90mm LMAF,JBA headers,Magnaflow Midmount,No cats with 3inch piping,Cobra R's and xenon body kit. 13.113@106.40mph on a dying tranny & Bad MAF New times next summer with T45 swap! |
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#5 | |
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West Virginia Chapter Director /
MA Drag Race Team Coordinator Lifetime Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Hedgesville, WV
Car: 1996 Mercury Cougar XR7
Engine: Bullitt 4.6L
Posts: 1,604
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Quote:
With a range colder plug on a 75 shot you should be fine. The main thing is to make sure the fuel system is up to par with a good aftermarket pump and regulator. Going lean is your biggest concern and make sure you are running the right jets and pressure. Also insure your tune pulls some timing out on top. That will help make it safer as well. As long as the engine is in good condition and you take care in how you handle it, it should run well and not be a problem. Beat on it continuously and it will break. I have had much success with mine over the past 10 years. Good luck and have fun!
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Steve (1MTNCAT) 96 Cougar XR7 Special Edition Best 11.89@113.12 1.57 60', Bottle Best 13.2 @ 104.67 1.81 60', Motor NA MM #7030 Under construction 2009!!! "IN MEMORY OF MY FRIEND JOEL BENDER 1979-2006" |
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#6 |
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PostSlut
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Spring Texas
Car: 9573 T-bird T-bird
Engine: 5.8L 7.5L
Age: 29
Posts: 10,154
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this is true.....however, I wished I would have done a little more research like this guy first...
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Talk is cheap! Take your car to the track and PROVE your point!
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#7 |
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1st Gear Poster
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: ar
Car: 1995 thunderbird
Engine: 4.6 v8
Posts: 43
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easiest thing to remember about running nitrous as I have done it on various vehicles from a V6 tbird (89 model) to a 2000 crown vic police interceptor to an 02 windstar and a 90 lincoln town car.... if it starts to do unusual stuff, shut it off IMMEDIATELY.... if you are on a run down the track and you hear or feel a slight stumble, its not everything saying "get off the gas and jump right back into it again!!" something caused that stumble so finish out your run on a coast out. Better to lose a race and still have an engine than to keep in it and have a collection of scrap metal. The 2000 crown vic had a 100 shot on it with everything bone stock and untouched except newer coil on plug units from an 02 gt mustang. It ran a 9.90 1/8th mile black tracking the tires all the way to the 400 ft area.
Pull your plugs and check them out under a magnifying glass. if you see mild pitting then you are going a bit lean and need to change the pump strainer in the tank and the fuel filter, but since you are already in there, go ahead and get you a 255lph pump and install it. they are less than 100 on ebay motors. now, dont think cause you got a new pump you have a new engine... proceed very cautiously and what I always recommend you do is get a collection of different jets for nitrous. Bad part is that to get every sice they make and have 2 of them on hand would cost you almost 1900 bucks. Granted you may never run the same sized pills on both nitrous and fuel, but hey, you never know what can or will happen in the world of racing... One last thing, GET A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE INSTALLED on your fuel rail SCHRADER valve location, as soon as possible. The reason I say this is simple... you can RUN TEST your fuel system by taking your nitrous fogger and removing it from your intake tract, and (leaving the bottle off of course) run your engine at about 3000 rpms and hit the nitrous button and see where your fuel pressure sits at... have the fogger held by a buddy pointing into a milk jug or a gas can. it should stay above 34 psi. also, the reason for having the nitrous fogger pointing in the jug is that the jet in the fogger provides resistance that the line itself does not, so you will get a more accurate pressure gauge reading while doing it. Something else, I ran a 220 shot on a 90 lincoln town car with 160K miles on it and only went one stage colder plugs, but I also bought double platinum autolites... never had a tune and never ran anything but the stock fuel pump. it was still in the car when it went to the crusher. I may have been blessed by the racing gods, but that 4400 pound car went into the 8 second zone (1/8th mile) with my 330 pound big butt driving it. Point is this, be careful and check everything over. if it is all within parameters, check it all again to make sure... then go race and beat on some ricers.. last thing is this, nitrous is addicting, VERY ADDICTING... so be very careful and never have the bottle hooked up when driving around, plus dont ever bypass the safety valve in the bottle. have fun and enjoy the laughing gas |
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#8 | |
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Veteran Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: London, Ontario
Car: 1996 Cougar XR-7
Engine: 4.6L V8
Posts: 702
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