What fixes these codes? P1443 and P1131

[Jealous?]

As it says, I scanned the car and these came up along with a closed loop fuel control issue. Could they be the same problem? or do I have a big issue to deal with?

[Darrin]

Straight from the service cd (mostly, I added a descriptor after the code)
P1443=A problem with the EVAP purge flow system
Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1443 indicates an incorrect evaporative system purge control valve flow.

Possible causes:
-- Obstructed, open or cracked hoses between EVAP canister purge valve and intake manifold.
-- Damaged EVAP canister purge valve.
-- Damaged PF sensor.


P1131=Bank 1 upstream (front) O2 not switching properly showing that it thinks Bank 1 is going lean. Bank 1 may be going lean from what you say about a closed loop fuel issue.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1131 bank (1) (Cylinder #1) and P1151 bank (2) indicate the fuel/air ratio is correcting rich for an overly lean condition. The HO2S voltage is less than 0.45 volt. DTCs P1132 bank (1) (Cylinder #1) and P1152 bank (2) indicate the fuel/air ratio is correcting lean for an overly rich condition. The HO2S voltage is greater than 0.45 volt.

DTCs P1130 and P1150 indicate the fuel control system has reached maximum compensation for a lean or rich condition and the HO2S is not switching.

DTC/HO2S Reference List

-- HO2S-11 = DTCs P1131, P1132 and P1130

-- HO2S-21 = DTCs P1151, P1152 and P1150

Possible causes:

Fuel system

-- Excessive fuel pressure.

-- Leaking fuel injector(s).

-- Leaking fuel pressure regulator.

-- Low fuel pressure.

-- Contaminated injector(s)

Induction system

-- Air leaks after the MAF.

-- Vacuum leaks.

-- Restricted air inlet.

-- PCV system.

-- Fuel purge system.

-- Improperly seated dip stick.

EGR

-- Leaking gasket.

-- Stuck open EGR valve.

-- Leaking diaphragm.

Base engine

-- Oil overfill.

-- Cam timing.

-- Cylinder compression.

-- Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2Ss.

l Check air intake for leaks, obstructions and damage.

l Check air filter, air filter housing for blockage.

l Verify integrity of the PCV system.

l Check for vacuum leaks.

[Jealous?]

HOLY CRAP. Thanks! Sounds like I have a rich condition that the computer is trying to compensate for.
I'll do a little tweaking and scan again to tell ya the results....

[Jealous?]

now all i have is the p1443. I'm beginning to think its the egr system.

[Darrin]

I don't think EGR problems would cause a code for the EVAP system.
I bet you either have a bad vacuum line or the purge flow sensor is DOA. I am betting on the vacuum line though.
Good luck

[GumbyHendu]

i am havin the same problems only my check engine light is comin on Someone told me it sounded like the mass air flow sensor and to test it by unplugging it while the car is off and to see if it is running any better I unplugged it and still no light came on. I'm curious to see what fixes urs so I can try it on mine. Also where would the most common place to look for a vaccumm leak? thanks Pat

[Jealous?]

anyone have a clue how to get to the evap can and hoses?

[Jealous?]

Well, I pulled the MAF plug and there is no change in idle at all. It basically runs the same too. Something is up.

any ideas???

[Red96Bird]

i replaced two parts (little cans just underneath the headlights.,.

easiest way to get to them, jack up car, remove front passenger tire, and unscrew/pull back the lining, and you will se it right infront of where the air silencer used to be..

these two part numbers fixed my cel with P1443

E6ZZ-9C915-A and
F57Z-14A606-BA


one of them is like a little valve with an electrical connection, and the other is a little canister looking thing, u will also want to purchase like a foot or two of vacuum hose because the one in there will be all dry rotted and old.

hopefully this helps

btw-these two parts cost $72.82


like i said, that is what fixed my P1443 Cel code




Patrick

[JoeyICU]

the lean code is proabably from the maf, if your willing to spend 100 bucks take it to ford tell them your CEL theyll do a baro test on all your sensors the the NGS and find out whats wrong

it could also be the canisters under the headlights, maybe one of the vacum lines to them is bad

when you unplug your maf if your car is in closed loop mode you will not notice a diff in idle as the computer already has everything set in stone, in open loop the car would be pooing a brick, so it could be when you have the maf unpluged your cars eec is still in closed loop, i wouldnt trust just unpluging it and thats how you tell if its bad

[JoeyICU]

-- Obstructed, open or cracked hoses between EVAP canister purge valve and intake manifold.

id look for that 1st, then if the lines seem old but not to bad off, go with replacing the two canisters

[Jealous?]

I'm going to do that tomorrow. Thanks guys.

ps. Any idea what size the hose is?

[Red96Bird]

maybe pull it apart first, take a sample piece with you and match it up at the auto parts store?

i cant remember off the top of my head

[JoeyICU]

ditto,take a piece in to match the size, i believe its the size of fuel line, maybe 5/8ths?

[Jealous?]

well, isn't that impossible to do with no second car? I can't drive my car with open vacuum lines.

[Red96Bird]

oh sorry about that.

[Jealous?]

no biggie. I didn't know there were 2 EVAP canisters. Do they both have lines running to the intake?

[MN12-Blackbird]

Replace all your vacumn hoses if you are getting a EGR code. If you have a 94-95, look for the green and red hard llines. they hook up the the EGR pump behind the intake, and the littlt saucer thingie. Replace all and I mean all you vacimn tubing and the EGR code will go away.

[Jealous?]

well, it must be the purge flow solenoid...the flow sensor (aka thermistor) did not fix the problem.

For future searches...the Motorcraft part number for the Canister Purge Flow Solenoid is CX1324 for the black top/black fittings and CX1158 for the natural-colored top/fittings. Its supposed to be the replacement for Ford part E6ZZ-9C915-A I'll update when I replace mine soon. Thanks for everyone's help!

[Jealous?]

PS. Its not a dealer-only part. RockAuto.com carries them for $30.79 plus shipping.

ok, I'm done for the night.

[chromecoupe]

while were on the topic...anyone have any info on code p0113 i know its listed as "high flow current from iat sensor"(from autozone atleast) and its because i put one of those magical "add 20+hp with a 5cent resistor" off ebay into the pigtail part of the iat...i replaced the pigtail (rewired it) and still get the same error, anyone have anything to offer on this? (sorry, didnt wanna start a new thread)

[azreael344]

Even before I got my chip my car would throw the p1433 code when we switched to the winter oxygenated gasoline on 87 octane. When I would run 93 octane it wouldn't come on. I guess it just didn't like the winter gas mixture.

[JoeyICU]

Originally posted by chromecoupe
while were on the topic...anyone have any info on code p0113 i know its listed as "high flow current from iat sensor"(from autozone atleast) and its because i put one of those magical "add 20+hp with a 5cent resistor" off ebay into the pigtail part of the iat...i replaced the pigtail (rewired it) and still get the same error, anyone have anything to offer on this? (sorry, didnt wanna start a new thread)

you probably need a new sensor you may have killed it

[JoeyICU]

Originally posted by azreael344
Even before I got my chip my car would throw the p1433 code when we switched to the winter oxygenated gasoline on 87 octane. When I would run 93 octane it wouldn't come on. I guess it just didn't like the winter gas mixture.

i dont think thats his problem in his case

ps ive never had that problem

[jordansypek]

Search..

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...ghlight=p+1443

[Jealous?]

Why are you telling me to search? This problem has been resolved.

[jordansypek]

I know buddy, but you were asking earlier in the post, I had the same problem, it was a piece of cake... Glad to hear you ironed it out... Also the next time someone else searched for the same code, they will see the reference to my thread also.. since this will more than likely be the latest thread, mo info, mo info, mo info!

[outboardtech]

maybe im a glutten for punishment but i have to ask . i am wondering if there is any ohms or voltage specs to test if the purge valve or purge sensor to insure the right part is being replaced ? i always like to teast something before i condem it being ive seen sensors that seem bad via a troubble code yet if i pull the offending sensor put it on a diffrent motor wham its working perfectly so id rather test and replace the offending sensor or valve then just shoot in the dark and pray i hit the right one

[Rodeo Joe]

Wow, another thread revival!

When I fixed mine, I said to hell with it and just replace everything. It was easier for me to take everything out together.

Joe

[outboardtech]

i had this suzuki DF 115 that i was working on that saied the map sensor was bad on my laptop, but when i went and took the map off a brand new 115 i had in the back of the shop just to test and make sure the sensor was the problem the new sensor still threw the code. so out of curiosity i took the "bad sensor" put it on the new motor took the new motor and stand to the front of the shop started it and it ran fine no codes, so after that day ive learned test things to be 100% sure sadly the motor with the map sensor problem was never repaired the owner was disgusted with the motor and had me install a new motor and sold the old one with the problem to a idiot who refused to even pay me to put my laptop on it to diagnose the problem so he made me alot of $ buying sensor after sensor trying to fix it lol