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Old 01-13-2008, 09:34 PM   #1
bob9646
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opinions about newfangled pulstar

has anyone heard of these things? http://www.pulstarplug.com/howtheywork.html
what does anyone think? looks awefully complicated for a spark plug
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:08 PM   #2
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I've seen this subject motioned here before, but I don't think anybody here has tried them yet.

$200.00 for eight plugs is a little steep.
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:13 PM   #3
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jEEzahs thats ridiculous
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:19 PM   #4
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I don't like the odds of that bet for $200; I'd try it if it was about half that much.
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:50 PM   #5
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Junk. Chances are your engine will run worse.
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Old 01-14-2008, 12:00 AM   #6
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Junk. Chances are your engine will run worse.
thats was my theory. unless you got some kind of tune
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Old 01-14-2008, 11:44 AM   #7
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If I was going to spend another $200.00 on my ignition system I would through in 8 autolite plug's and THIS MSD BOX.
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Old 01-14-2008, 02:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pulstarplug
the incoming voltage (which has nowhere to go) heats up ignition components including the spark plug
The last time I checked voltage does not heat up anything.... heat is only generated by resistance to current flow...

And I usually shy away from places that say, "Tests at an independent laboratory"... give me a name or take a walk.

Complete BS (IMHO). It looks like all they did was make COP into CIP (Coil in Plug).
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Old 01-14-2008, 03:48 PM   #9
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exactly....only actual current-flow will heat up components.....just like a car audio amplifier.....disconnect a speaker, and then crank up the source signal....the voltage at the speaker output terminals will increase accordingly, but no power will be generated since no current is flowing...therefore the amp will not heat up anymore than what it normally does when it is idling
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:11 AM   #10
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therefore the amp will not heat up anymore than what it normally does when it is idling
my amp had a wicked cam in it you shoulda heard its idle. it was mean.
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:29 PM   #11
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The plug does heat up a lot...

But only at the point the spark is hitting the electrode. Think TIG welder; the tungsten tips wear out in the same way; plasma erosion of the electrode.

The heat there is the big reason for both platinum and copper core plugs.

The platinum resists the plasma from the 'Ballistic Electrons' being driven across the gap at 100kV+. The copper core makes sure the thin platinum plating doesn't get vaporized. Non plated plugs get replaced a lot in our cars.

Ever notice the two plugs original to our cars?

One has platinum plating on the ground electrode, one on the tip. Is F*rd cheap or what?


These plugs are BS; adding another coil in series is going to stretch the spark out, but adding spark duration to our systems really isn't needed. It shouldn't hurt anything...but that plug also looks like it has pieces that make an additional gap in series, which our systems already have. (our other plug firing on the exhaust stroke.) If you have massive oil fouling, this would probably make it work until it breaks the rest of the way...

The extra gap thing is how tasers work as well...

IMHO our coils are pretty good... I've built some cool things from ones that were partially bad. Amazing what you can blow up with a 555 timer chip, a car battery, and one of these coils... The coils break at about 20W of power; that makes this wild looking purple plasma. (DTTAH!) The chevy ones are cool too, but break easier.

If our coils won't light it, it can't be lit, AFAIK. They go bad, but I wouldn't run my hand down one of the wires to look for a leaky spot! (I bet they don't teach that trick in auto mech anymore...)
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
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IMHO our coils are pretty good... I've built some cool things from ones that were partially bad. Amazing what you can blow up with a 555 timer chip, a car battery, and one of these coils... The coils break at about 20W of power; that makes this wild looking purple plasma. (DTTAH!) The chevy ones are cool too, but break easier. )
wow. i thought i was crazy for screwing around with AA batteries and disposable camera flash coils. lol. im a *****.

OK so my theory on these things seems to be a popular one. thanks for the opinions.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:24 PM   #13
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wow. i thought i was crazy for screwing around with AA batteries and disposable camera flash coils. lol. im a *****.
Those just hurt like heck...

a coil running from a car battery will melt stainless!

Look up a 'Jacobs Ladder' ; the GM coils have towers with exposed electrodes, and you can make a JL just by wrapping wire around the posts, and fanning it out to about 12" at the top...

As you crank the frequency up, the spark will travel up the wires, until it runs out of power, and extinguishes...then it will start over from the bottom.

I used stainless wire from a broken antenna...when I hit the coils sweet spot, it went all the way to the top, turns purple, about half an inch wide, and started melting the wire. (Did not extinguish!) It ran down the side of the wire, as I'm trying to shut it down...

It blew the coil about then, but at least I know how far it will go...

BTW, DTTAH is don't try this at home; I'm used to working with HV...
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Old 02-09-2008, 07:39 PM   #14
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Anyone try these out yet? They seem interesting....Here's some test results I found http://sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.a...Results&mfid=0
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1827136 (read well into the thread)
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Old 02-09-2008, 08:33 PM   #15
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tests are skewed because on blown applications, smaller gaps are beneficial to producing power.....do that on an N/A car, and use proper gaps, and viola, behold the truth
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:42 PM   #16
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i will tell my ricer freind about them and he will probably bye them
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
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i will tell my ricer freind about them and he will probably bye them
yea, he may even "buy" them ....take that
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