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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2007, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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pulling engine....

....and trans. together, in a 90 SC.... Has anyone done it?. My trans is blown, and I thought with 150K, I should do the head gaskets, and timing cover. I have done the heads on these once before, but since I need to do the trans also, I might as well pull the motor. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2007, 03:23 PM
 
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do plugs!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2007, 04:16 PM
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It can be done if you have a load leveler or a couple friends to help. I usually find it easier to pull them seperately though. My reccomendation would be to pull the trans the normal way, then just remove the intercooler, unplug the engine harness, some vacuum lines, and some coolant lines and unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine out with everything still attached to it. Once the trans is out, it shouldn't take more than another hour to have the engine out of the car too, and then you can work on everything easily.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 01:01 AM
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It sucks both ways. if you want to so both at once you'd better have some tall jack stands. I had to have the car way up in the air to get both out at once and a trans is not fun to take out with out a trans lift and you would still need tall jack stands to get it out from under the car.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 10:02 AM
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Well Dependent on your ability, removing the engine CAN be hard either way.. but removing the engine and tranny together isn't all that hard, specially if you have a load leveler.. And one doesn't have to remove the driveshaft either.. you just gotta free every damn thing that may want to stop it from dropping enough (two `safety' loops, the cross brace just before the tank, and if you want you can loosen off the forward two gas tank strap bolts (i've never done it)




The Supercharger wasn't on in the removal, but was was on in the reinstall (so if it can go in with it on, it can come out with it on)



How it went back in..

the whole job was pretty much done all by myself.. 'cept for a hand on removal, since a hoist wheel came off the plywood i had down, and sunk right into the dirt Mid pull

OH OH most importantly.. DRAIN!!! the transmission

But yes, it can be done with the tranny still attached and really it's not that hard to do.. and the above is not the first time for me, i've helped others do it this way..
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Leer5000 View Post
do plugs!
Oh'yah.. to add to this.. since you'll have the engine out.. that's a good thing to do and dependent on milage, doing the rod bearings aswhile...

The replacement engine on my car, i never rebuilt (i was being `cheap' ) But i did do headgaskets, sparkplugs, and Rod bearings on it since it had 120,000 miles, YES a full rebuild would of been the ideal thing.. but i was trying to get the car running with least amount of money that and the rod bearing went on the orginal motor and on this replacement motor the bearings where showing copper so..
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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That's what I'm taking about !

Nice pics., 91XR7 ! Since I plan on dropping the tank,(to do the fuel pump, anyway), doing the trans/engine together should'nt be too bad. Doesn't look like you have the car any higher than I would have for a normal engine, or trans pull, if doing them separately. My SC was running fine before I blew the trans, but the mounts are broken, hasn't had plugs since I bought it in 95, and I don't trust the head gaskets. I wasn't going to remove the pan, but it would be crazy not too. I already have a low mileage trans. from a 89 crown vic., that I was planning on using along with a shift kit. Thanks for the input.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 11:34 AM
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While you have it out, may as well do several things to improve the running of it. No better time, and that way you only have to do it once.

I would do the following (but this is just me):
check the block for cracks (can get this done for about $75 at a good machine shop)
Have cylinder bore checked
new rings
new bearings
have valves checked and if necessary have a valve job done

Doing these things will increase the life of the engine, and save you from having to pull it again (too soon).

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 11:35 AM
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Well since you are dropping the gas tank, it'll make life even easier.. Still the `safety loops' need to be removed, ect, ect.. But RE & RE of the engine and trans just got alittle easier..

And yah.. as you can tell those are unfinished `4x4's (so Around 5x5) with a finished 2x4 on top of them.. for nearly 11-12" of height in the front, the rear i just used some good ol' jackstands, all you need is room to get yourself under and be able to RE&RE the exhuast, hardware, ect.. the gastank may be alittle on the fun side thou at this height.. but not impossible (did it with my '91 when i did the 5spd swap) but i also never completely removed it either (just enough to RE&RE the driveshaft)

Well i only did the Rod bearings on my replacement engine since it had the same basic milage as the engine that was in it when one of the rod bearings went.. and it was like `Well it's out anyways.....' kinda thought.. also i went for the more `expensive' rod bearings too.. (thinking of the forces that are put onto the rod bearings, ect.. Cheap doesn't sound like a good idea)

the rod bearings are optional.. but like i said, if you car has like 90,000miles or more.. i would surgest it thou..

When Rod Bearings go bad
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshbea6 View Post
Doing these things will increase the life of the engine, and save you from having to pull it again (too soon).
Heh of coarse it'll increase the life of the engine, since basiclly doing all that is REBUILDING the engine

is rebuilding the engine a smart thing at this time, HELL YAH!
and depending on z1rider Finicial Situation at this time, may or may not be affordable..

HECK i amit with my project 89 (Parts car turned driver), rebuilding the replacment engine would of been a good idea.. but with me, that would of cost over $3000.. and to spend that kinda $$$ on a car i have no idea how the rest is like (tranny, Diff., suspension) would of been just stupid, but i wanted to make shure if things where `okay' elsewhere, that the engine would have a hoping chance of surving for awhile, untill i figure out what step 2, and so on was (step 1 being getting it to MOVE under it's own power )
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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My SC has had mostly freeway miles, and regular oil changes, most of it's life. Never been overheated, either. It runs nice and smooth and quiet. I was just going to do the trans, but being a 3.8, I feel it should be at least reseal, in the head and timing covers. Oh, and how about the engine mounts? Anything to recommend? I thought about a cam, but not sure if there is enough perf. gain without other mods.
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