'94 SC Engine and Trans. Swap (tutorial with pics) - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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'94 SC Engine and Trans. Swap (tutorial with pics)

So after doing the engine swap last summer on my 1994 automatic transmission Super Coupe, the one part I didn't replace was the harmonic balance (http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=123565). A few weeks ago as I went to start my car to drive home from college the balance snout and bolt broke.

After much deliberation, and consulting my dad and I decided to purchase a remanufactured long block from Super Coupe Performance (http://supercoupeperformance.com/par...spx?partId=407). The car has been sitting in the parking garage at my college since then, until today when I had a flat bed tow it home. S.C.P. estimates 3-8 business days from when my dad and I call them for the order till it arrives here (Texas to Boston, MA).

Along with doing an engine swap, I'm throwing in an MR52 manual tranny. checking brakes, a little exhaust work, and surface rust control under the car and in the engine bay and little jobs that will help the car last longer. I will post after everyday I work on it, and if anyone would like pictures or anything specific just ask and I can easily do that, along with videos, which are also no problem.

~Allan V

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."--Adam Savage.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Day 1

Day 1 Monday June 14, 2010 (3-4 hours of work)


-The Prep-
Once car was in driveway, I washed it like I normally would, but then also sprayed very well under the car from front bumper to the rear. Then I used Simple Green to wash down the engine bay, trying to clean inside all of the nooks between parts. I did this to try to make the tear down far less messy, along with the garage floor.
Then pushed car into the garage where I chocked the rear wheels with it in park and e-brake on, then lifted the front up onto two jack stands right behind the front wheels, on the front part of the frame rails.Remove battery with key in “On” position, so you can move the wheels while your under the car if they are in the way.

-Draining fluids-
-Oil- unscrewed the drain plug (should be metric socket) in oil pan and let drain, then replug. Then unscrewed oil filter, let drain, and drained filter, wiped filter and soiled K frame area then reinstalled oil filter.
-Coolant/antifreeze- I unscrewed the drain located on the bottom of the radiator on the passenger's side then opening radiator cap to break the vacuum. Once flow has stopped, reinstall drain plug and disconnect lower radiator hose from radiator and let drain. Once flow has stopped, spin the water pump as fast as safely possible, to push out any stagnant coolant.
-Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)- crack loose all of the transmission pan bolts. Working from the rear sides of the car (because the front of the car only should be lifted) begin loosening bolts, trying to keep a direction for the ATF to pour out of (Yet it will probably just pour a little everywhere) (old non-quilted blankets are good to use as automotive drop cloths for situations like this.) once almost all bolts (all but 3) let drain, then fiddle with moving pan up and down til it get boring then reinstall bolts. Disconnect the Automatic transmission cooler lines from radiator and wrap ends with kitchen plastic wrap and duct tape.
-Coolant/antifreeze part II- with drain pan under lower radiator hose, lower car back down, coolant will leak out.
Intake- Loosen hose clamp closing rubber intake tube to throttle body, disconnect mass air flow sensor meter and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)which is a tube little hose that connects to the bottom of the rubber intake tube.

-Radiator- unbolt the two radiator supports on the top corners of the radiator and unscrew the intercooler shroud and pull it slightly back so if you lifted straight up on it (hypothetically) it wouldn't get caught on the intercooler. Now grab the radiator and lift up, being careful to not tilt the radiator on its rear side because coolant will still leak from radiator.

-Harmonic balance- Mine broke off, so it was just laying on the sway bar and radiator fan, so I removed it at this time, it will help when pulling out the engine if you can even remove the main pulley, rather than the whole balance.

-Water pump pulley and belts- If your considering doing an engine swap, you shouldn't need me to tell you how to remove the belts. The water pump pulley is also simple enough, you might need to use two tools (one on each of two bolts) and apply torque on opposite directions, so the pulley doesn't spin while your trying to unbolt it.

-Intercooler- The intercooler is mounted on four studs, two on each of the upper and lower intercooler pipes. Take the nuts off. Pull off intercooler.

-Upper intercooler pipe- I used a pipe wrench (monkey wrench) to loosen the collar that holds the upper pipe to supercharger top. And it is also mounted on a stud in the side of the driver's side accessory bracket (power steering bracket). The nut for this (and for the bolt for the lower intercooler pipe also) is easiest to remove with a wrench. The bolt is an odd 19/32” size.

-Hood- fold an old blanket neatly over roof of car (if you have sunroof lay two or more sheets of cardboard on top of that. Use an anti-tamper torx bit #30 and pliers to apply torque to the two bolts on each side of the hood. You may need to torch the bolts, remember to have cloths dripping wet with cold water to prevent the paint and clear coat from cracking and blistering. Loosen the four bolts and go find a friend to hold the hood up. Stuff rags in the corners of the hood (to protect inner fenders, and pointed corner. Take out bottom two bolts. And take off hood struts. Take off the last bolt on one side, then the last one on the other side. Have your friend move to one side, and you to the other. Lift hood and flip the painted side down and set on top of roof.

-Windshield wipers and cowel- Pull metal tabs closest to the spinning part, lift up on arm like your cleaning the windshield, and it should kind of pop up a little. The cowel has 5-6 screw. Remove those and pull off weather stripping. Disconnect washer fluid line and set the whole assembly on hood with wiper blades.

That's it for now. Remember, ask me for anything you want pictures or videos for. Next up to be removed are the accessory brackets, then work with the intake plenum, and maybe disconnecting the tranny and/or exhaust.

~AllanV

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."--Adam Savage.

Last edited by Burnout Bob; 06-15-2010 at 08:20 PM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Day 2 Tuesday June 15

Day 2 Tuesday June 15
Unplug spark plug wires from coil pack
Label both the plugs and the connection where you unplugged it from
Remove the driver's side (power steering accessory bracket)
Disconnect any electrical connections (two on coil, two on alternator, two on power steering)With drain pan under the power steering pump, if you can reach the power steering lines, disconnect them. If you cant reach them, disconnect the upper and lower intercooler pipes from accessory bracket using a 19/32 open end/box wrench (much easier than using a deep socket and trying to fit a ratchet in there. Then remove two of the nuts on the studs located on your right. There is a few hidden bolts. A bolt under the tensioner, and a hidden nut under the tensioner, and a bolt under the alternator (but make sure its not the one that holds the alternator to the bracket). This bracket is mounted on studs so one person can remove the bracket, but before you do that, find a large piece of cardboard and place it standing up in front of the air conditioner heat exchanger. Now pull the bracket off and move it around so you can reach the power steering lines and disconnect them and drain the resivour and remove from the car.
Disconnect the fuel lines and the AC lines
Your local autoparts store should carry disconnect thingys for fuel and AC lines. I will post a picture of the correct tool. To disconnect your fuel lines its best to spray a little WD40 in the socket to help you disconnect the lines easier. Remember to remove the pressure from the fuel rails by pressing the pin down in the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Disconnect the lines then cover them. I used fingers from blue nytrile gloves. Just like the fuel rails, the AC lines must be depressurized. This means that the freon must be released. CAUTION! ASK HELP FROM SOMONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING! THE PRESSURE FROM THE LINES IS DANGEROUS! AND FREON DISPLACES OXYGEN. Freon is bad for the environment apparently, so your supposed to use a professional freon recovery system. So don't vent it into the air and say I told you to...but that method works too. And if you do just vent it out, make sure you do so in a well ventilated garage or outside. Pressure might be draining from the lines for hours it seems so you should just let it sit out overnight I think.

~Allan V



"I reject your reality and substitute my own."--Adam Savage.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Day 3 Wendsday June 16, 2010

Day 3 Wendsday June 16, 2010
Disconnect vacuum lines
It seems like there are a million vacuum lines in the plenum area under the wiper assembly cowl, save yourself some trouble and trace all of the lines and make sure it doesn't somehow connect to the motor elsewhere. If it does not go back to the body, you should be able to leave it connected. And as you disconnect each line, label everything, to help reassembly.
Disconnect Electrical cables
If you see a connection from the engine to the body, disconnect it and label.
Remove Starter
find the right tools and remove
Disconnect exhaust
Spray bolts on downpipes with penetrating fluid (PB Blaster) and let sit.
Put a jack stand under each cat and remove bolts. (The o2 sensors should have already been removed). Disconnect the resonator from back part of exhaust at the flange. That doesn't work so now I cut the pipe about two to three inches past the flange. Remove exhaust.
Remove motor mount bolts
Get the right sized tools and remove all of the bolts and nuts and studs in motor mounts, to ease in removal of engine.

~Allan V

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."--Adam Savage.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Day 4 Thursday June 17, 2010

Day 4 Thursday June 17, 2010
Remove passenger's side accessory bracket (AC compressor, jackshaft)
Use a socket and the same size open end wrench and put them on two opposite bolts on the jackshaft pulley. Remove the pulley. You will need a friend to help you remove this bracket. Unlike the other bracket, this one is all mounted on bolts, so when you remove the last bolt, the bracket falls. One of the bolts is hidden behind a tensioner, so someone needs to open the tensioner while another ratchets out the bolt. Have a friend remove the last bolt as you hold the bracket.
Remove Supercharger and intake plenum
disconnect wireing harness for throttle body. And unbolt and remove.
Disconnect the transmission
Under the car, unhook the wiring harness for the transmission. And loosen the two outer bolts on the transmission cross member, and the center bolt. With the E-brake on, go to the back of the car and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear differential using the same method as I mentioned for the jackshaft, except with one wrench on another, and a breaker bar. Once the driveshaft is disconnected from the rear differential, use a hack saw to cut it as close to the yoke on the transmission side. (I wish I did this, because even after draining the transmission, when I pulled the driveshaft out (which was a horrible experience) the transmission poured fluid everywhere constantly from then until after its sitting on the garage floor, out of the car). Now go inside the cabin, and take apart the center console and remove the shifter. Lift the rear of the car up as far as safely possible (in preparation for removal of the engine and tranny) and set on 2 or more jackstands in positions that if the car was rocked back and forth they would not fall. Go back under the car, and put a floor jack under the tailshaft of the transmission. Go to bed because its really late, and continue after work the next day.

~Allan V

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."--Adam Savage.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Day 5 Friday June 18, 2010

Day 5 Friday June 18, 2010
Disconnect the transmission (cont.)
Remove the three bolts in transmission cross member.
Remove Battery Tray
Find the right size socket and remove
Remove Washer fluid resivour
If your attempting an engine swap, I hope you can remove this without help.
Lower air intake filter box
Same method as last two things, find the socket and remove
Remove anything else connecting the engine to the body
Hook up load leveler
Bolt into the heads, using the least amount of chain possible, to give as much clearance as possible in the pull.
Pull engine and tranny out
Clean up any mess
Set engine down, push car out of garage, speedy dry spills, sweep and wipe everything down wash floors with simple green, dry. Clean tools. Move car back into garage, clean tools and call it a night.

~Allan V

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."--Adam Savage.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Day 6 Saturday June 19, 2010

Day 6 Saturday June 19, 2010
Prep for paint
Push car outside, lift on jackstands, power wash transmission tunnel, gas tank strap thing, frame and engine bay and just about everything you can get to. Use lots of simple green and a brush to scrub off grease. Wipe up any sitting water (in k-frame lip, battery and air intake tray). Let car dry. Push inside.

~Allan V

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."--Adam Savage.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Sunday June 20, 2010

Its fathers day so no work on car, spending time with Dad and Mom. Hopefully get more supplies to start paint work on rust spots tomorrow (Monday). I'll keep everyone updated. Happy Fathers Day!

~Allan V

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."--Adam Savage.
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