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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Crank No Start

Ok so the SC that I just got isn't running. I just replaced the harmonic balancer and the crank position sensor. The battery seems a little weak. It's got good fuel pressure and its got spark. It seems like it wants to start but won't. I got no clue where to start.

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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Still no ideas. To day I'm going to go out and buy a code reader so I can post the codes its giving off.

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
91 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/390762...super-coupe-2d
00 Explorer Sport: Wife's Daily Driver
00 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/392408...ort-utility-2d
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 09:03 AM
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You said you have good fuel & spark? Spray some carb cleaner in the intake and see if it starts. If it does, look in the fuel delivery system for the problem. If it doesn't start still and the behavior doesn't change, look at the electrical side (ignition or ECM).

~Rick

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 01:43 PM
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Cam sensor can cause this problem on the earlier SCs.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 02:29 PM
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you should try posting this on sccoa, you may get more replies since its an SC specific site
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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OK so update carb cleaner didn't help. And I have been on sccoa. I have an extra cam sensor I'm going to try it as soon as I can.

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
91 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/390762...super-coupe-2d
00 Explorer Sport: Wife's Daily Driver
00 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/392408...ort-utility-2d
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R1dd1cK View Post
OK so update carb cleaner didn't help. And I have been on sccoa. I have an extra cam sensor I'm going to try it as soon as I can.
I was willing to bet the problem was electrical, but you seemed to be leaning toward fuel. That's why I had you do that test.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 04:37 PM
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is the upshift light staying on while cranking the motor over? this may help http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni...No%20Start.htm
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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OK changed cam sensor. Didn't make any difference. And I was not trying to make it sound like a fuel problem. I just had the part and I wanted to check the cam timing any ways. The upshift light goes out when I crank the motor. It has a new harmonic balancer and a new crank sensor.

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
91 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/390762...super-coupe-2d
00 Explorer Sport: Wife's Daily Driver
00 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/392408...ort-utility-2d
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 07:09 PM
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Make sure when u first turn the key to the on position that ALL of the lights on the dash come on and go off like the check engine light and so forth. Check all the fuses, too. Make sure its getting oil pressure and the gauge works. Get a compression tester and make sure the head gaskets arent blown. i had a 90 lumina euro with a similar problem. my oil pressure sensor went bad and kept my fuel pump runnin even with the key in hand and engine off. I read that the way it works is if the engine drops oil pressure the fuel pump cuts off.

1990 Thunderbird SC 3.8 V6
180 degree thermostat, poly diff bushings & rear spindle bushings, 96 t bird trunk & taillights, full magnaflow exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, autometer dual gauge pillar pod & single gauge column pod, all interior lights l.e.d, 8000k HID headlights & foglights, l.e.d turn signals, cornering lights, license plates lights & reverse lights

UPDATE: Screamin Demon wires and coil, MP sc top, 6.5 Kicker component speakers and kicker amp, clarion tv radio.

1990 Thunderbird SC 3.8 V6 parts car

06 Suzuki Hayabusa 1300R
8000k HID lowbeam headlight, K&N Air filter, power commander, custom exhaust, lowered rear 3", chrome mesh kit, blue l.e.d lights through out bike, cutom hideaway plate, chrome pieces everywhere
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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I will go check the lights in a few but I know that the oil pressure goes change when I crank it over. And the head gasket was changed less then 200 miles ago and so was the plugs and wires.

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
91 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/390762...super-coupe-2d
00 Explorer Sport: Wife's Daily Driver
00 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/392408...ort-utility-2d
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ok i just checked the lights they all turn on then the firm ride one goes out.

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
91 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/390762...super-coupe-2d
00 Explorer Sport: Wife's Daily Driver
00 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/392408...ort-utility-2d
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 10:56 AM
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u ever try to hold the gas pedal at wide open throttle and see what it does? its not gonna flood the motor or anything like that. also when its spinning, is it spitting and popping like its tryna come alive or nothing at all?

1990 Thunderbird SC 3.8 V6
180 degree thermostat, poly diff bushings & rear spindle bushings, 96 t bird trunk & taillights, full magnaflow exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, autometer dual gauge pillar pod & single gauge column pod, all interior lights l.e.d, 8000k HID headlights & foglights, l.e.d turn signals, cornering lights, license plates lights & reverse lights

UPDATE: Screamin Demon wires and coil, MP sc top, 6.5 Kicker component speakers and kicker amp, clarion tv radio.

1990 Thunderbird SC 3.8 V6 parts car

06 Suzuki Hayabusa 1300R
8000k HID lowbeam headlight, K&N Air filter, power commander, custom exhaust, lowered rear 3", chrome mesh kit, blue l.e.d lights through out bike, cutom hideaway plate, chrome pieces everywhere
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 11:57 AM
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Holding the gas pedal to the floor before you start the car will turn off the injectors and help a car that is flooding, this helped a lot when I broke a valve and the car wouldn't run very well.

Codes are a big help but won't always tell you what you need to know.

If you have a PIP code than you want to look at your crank sensor again. You mentioned you just changed it so.......

Why did you start with the crank sensor again? Just a gut feeling or did someone point you in that direction? Just trying to understand your train of thought on everything.

FYI guys, you can start an SC without its cam sensor.

Check your grounds, this can be a culprit. Also, not sure on your year but there is a ground on the back of the head that is needed for the O2's , the later years did not have this.

So you have fuel and spark...... Have you checked compression?

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 01:49 PM
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just cause you have good fuel pressure don't mean the injectors are firing you should pulse the injectors to make sure they are spaying and if they are then you need to do the no start tests that i posted. when you put the balancer and crank sensor on did you gap the sensor right? and hand turn the balancer to make sure all three fins on the balancer go though without touching the sensor there is very little room for error. if its right and cam sensor don't matter on starting as long as its unpluged you may have to try starting like six times for it to hit the right one to fire then next in line is the dis module if no1989 Ford Thunderbird SC
DIS Troubleshooting - No Start Pinpoint Tests
Click here for Diagramshttp://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/DISnostart/DIS%20No%20Start%20Diag.htm

N1 - PERFORM EEC-IV QUICK TEST
If there are any codes, trouble shoot those first. If no Codes, continue.




N2 - CHECK FOR SPARK DURING CRANKING
Use a Spark Tester to check for spark at all spark plug wires while cranking

If there was spark present on ALL spark plug wires and they were consistent (one spark per crankshaft revolution), go to N3 otherwise go to N5




N3 - CHECK PIP EEC AT CRANKSHAFT SENSOR
Connect a LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 1 on the Crankshaft sensor and the battery (-) negative lead.

Crank the engine

If the LED Test :Lamp blinks continuously during the Crank go to N4. Otherwise replace the crankshaft sensor.




N4 - CHECK PIP EEC AND IGND TO EEC-IV CONTINUITY
Remove the EEC-IV from the vehicle harness connector.

Remove both connectors from the DIS.

Measure resistance between pin 56 of the EEC-IV harness connector and Pin 1 of the connector to the Crankshaft Sensor.

Also measure the resistance between Pin 16 of the EEC-IV harness connector and Pin 3 of the Crankshaft Sensor (IGND PS).

If both measurements are less than 5 then go to basic troubleshooting... Lack of fuel bad spark plugs. If not, check for problems in the connectors or a problem with damage to a wire.




N5 - DETERMINE MISSING SPARK COMBINATION
Was spark missing from BOTH cylinder 1 and 5 plug wires?
or
Was spark missing from BOTH cylinder 2 and 6 plug wires?
or
Was spark missing from BOTH cylinder 3 and 4 plug wires?

If so, then go to N7 Otherwise go to N6




N6 - CHECK PLUGS AND WIRES
Check spark plug wires for damage. Remove and check spark plugs for damage or wear and proper gap.

If spark plug wires and plugs are O.K. go to N7 otherwise repair the plugs/wires and retest.




N7 - CHECK DIS MODULE VBAT
Reconnect all cables.

Connect LED test lamp between (-) Pin 7 (IGNG D) and (+) Pin 1 (VBAT D).

Turn the Key on

If the LED Test lamp is on, go to N8 otherwise check the connectors and service or replace the harness.




N8 - CHECK DIS MODULE IGNITION GROUND
Key off

Measure resistance between (-) Negative Battery connection and Pin 7 on the DIS.

If the resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to N10 otherwise go to N9




N9 - CHECK DIS MODULE MOUNTING SCREWS
Check if the DIS module mounting screws are corroded or loose. Pay particular attention to the bottom ones.

If the screws are clean and tight, replace the DIS module and rerun the test. Otherwise clean and tighten the screws. Don't forget the heat sink compound.




N10 - CHECK ALL COIL PACK CIRCUITS
Key on

Connect LED Test Lamp between three pairs of test points. Note if lamp is on or off each time.

Check between (+) Pin 8 on the DIS connector and the Negative Battery Cable.

Check between (+) Pin 11 on the DIS connector and the Negative Battery Cable.

Check between (+) Pin 9 on the DIS connector and the Negative battery cable.

If the LED test lamp was on for all three checks, go to N15, otherwise go to N11




N11 - ISOLATE DIS MODULE SHORT(S)
Key off.

Disconnect the Pins 7 thru 12 connector from the DIS.

Connect a jumper wire between Pin 7 on the DIS (IGND D) and Negative Battery cable.

Repeat the tests in Step N10.

If the LED Test lamp was now on for all three checks, Replace the DIS Module. Otherwise remove the jumper wire and go to N12




N12 - CHECK COIL PACK VBAT C
Key off

Reconnect cables to DIS

Connect LED Test lamp between (+) Pin 4 on the coil pack (VBAT C) and Negative cable on the battery.

Key On.

If the LED Test lamp is on, go to N13, otherwise check the connectors and service or replace the harness.




N13 - CHECK IGNITION COIL CIRCUIT
Key On

Connect the LED Test lamp between three pairs of locations given below. Note if the LED test lamp is on or off for each one.

__ Check between (+) Pin 1 of the Coil Pack connector (C2C) and Negative Battery Cable (-)

__ Check between (+) Pin 2 of the Coil Pack connector (C3C) and Negative Battery Cable (-)

__ Check between (+) Pin 3 of the Coil Pack connector (C1C) and Negative Battery Cable (-)

If the LED Test lamp was on for all three checks, then check all connectors and service or replace the harness. Otherwise go to N14




N14 - ISOLATE HARNESS SHORTS
Disconnect connector from the Coil Pack

Key off

Connect a jumper between Positive Battery Cable (VBAT +) and Pin 4 on the Coil Pack connector (VBAT C).

Repeat test procedure in Test Step N13

If the LED Test Lamp was now on for all three checks, Remove the jumper wire and check connectors and service or replace the harness, otherwise Remove the jumper wire and replace the Coil Pack. Rerun the tests.




N15 - CHECK PIP IN TO DIS MODULE
Connect LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 4 of the DIS connector (PIP D) and (-) Negative Battery Cable

If the LED Test lamp blinks when the engine is cranked go to N16 otherwise go to N22.




N16 - CHECK SPOUT AT DIS MODULE
Connect LED Test lamp between (+) (SPOUT) and (-) Negative battery cable

If the LED Test Lamp blinks when the engine is cranked, go to N17, otherwise go to N19




N17 - CHECK DIS MODULE COIL DRIVERS
Connect a LED Test Lamp between each of three pairs of test points. Note if lamp blinks continuously for each during crank.

__ Check between (+) Pin 8 of DIS (C1D) and (-) Negative Battery Cable.

__ Check between (+) Pin 11 of DIS (C2D) and (-) Negative Battery Cable.

__ Check between (+) Pin 9 of DIS (C3D) and (-) Negative Battery Cable.

If the LED Test lamp blinks during all three checks, Replace the Coil Pack and rerun tests. Otherwise Go to N18.




N18 - ISOLATE COIL PACK FROM SYSTEM
Disconnect Connector from Coil Pack.

Key off

Connected the LED Test lamp between each of three pairs of test points given. Note if the lamp is on for each one with Key On.

__ Check between (+) Pin 8 of DIS (C1D) and (-) Negative Battery Cable.

__ Check between (+) Pin 11 of DIS (C2D) and (-) Negative Battery Cable.

__ Check between (+) Pin 9 of DIS (C3D) and (-) Negative Battery Cable.

If any LED Test lamp was on, Check the connectors and service or replace the harness. If not, Replace the DIS module and rerun the tests.




N19 - ISOLATE EEC-IV PROCESSOR FOR SPOUT FAULT
Key off

Disconnect EEC-IV processor

Connect the LED Test lamp between (+) Pin 5 on the DIS Connector (SPOUT) and (-) Negative Battery cable.

If the LED Test Lamp blinks continuously while the engine is cranked, the EEC Processor is shorting the SPOUT, replace it. Otherwise go to N20




N20 - CHECK SPOUT CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO VBAT
Disconnect connector from DIS Module Pins 1-6.

Key off

Connect LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 5 on the DIS connector (SPOUT) and the (-) Negative battery cable.

Key on

If the LED Test lamp is on, the SPOUT is shorted to the battery. Check connectors and service or replace the harness. Otherwise go to N21




N21 - CHECK SPOUT CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND
Connect LED Test Lamp between (-) Pin 5 on the DIS connector (SPOUT) to the Positive battery cable connector.

Key on

If the LED Test lamp is on, the SPOUT is shorted to ground, check the connectors and service or replace the harness. If the LED Test lamp is not on, replace the DIS module and rerun the test.




N22 - ISOLATE DIS MODULE PIP
Key off

Disconnect DIS Connector to Pins 1-6.

Connect LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 4 on the DIS Connector (PIP D) and (-) Negative battery cable connection.

If the LED Test Lamp blinks continuously when the engine is cranked, replace the DIS module. Otherwise go to N23.




N23 - CHECK SENSOR VBAT
Key off

Reconnect DIS Module Connector Pins 1-6

Connect LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 4 on the Crank Sensor Connector (VBAT PS) and (-) Pin 7 of the DIS Connector (IGND D)

Key on

If the LED Test lamp is on, go to N24, otherwise check the connectors and service or replace the harness.




N24 - CHECK SENSOR IGNITION GROUND
Key off

Measure resistance between Pin 3 of the Crank Sensor Plug (IGND PS) and Pin 7 of the DIS Connector (IGND D).

If the resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to N25, otherwise check connectors and service or replace the harness.




N25 - CHECK PIP S AT CRANKSHAFT SENSOR
Connect LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 2 of the Crank Connector (PIP S) and (-) Pin 7 of the DIS Connector (IGND D)

If the LED Test Lamp blinks continuously when the engine is cranked check the connectors and service or replace the harness. If not, then go to N26.




N26 - CHECK PIP S FOR SHORTS TO GROUND
Key off

Disconnect Crankshaft sensor

Disconnect DIS Module Connector Pins 1-6

Connect LED Test Lamp between (-) Pin 2 of the CrankShaft Sensor (PIP S) and Positive Battery Cable connection.

Key on

If the LED Test lamp is on, PIP S is shorted to ground between the sensor and the DIS module. Check connectors and service or replace the harness. Otherwise go to N27




N27 - CHECK PIP S FOR SHORTS TO VBAT
Key off

Connect LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 2 of the CrankShaft Sensor (PIP S) and the Negative battery cable connector.

Key on

If the LED Test Lamp is on, PIP S is shorted to the VBAT between sensor and DOS Module. Check connectors, service or replace harness. Otherwise go to N28.




N28 - CHECK PIP EEC FOR SHORTS TO GROUND
Key off

Disconnect EEC-IV processor from vehicle harness.

Connect LED Test Lamp between (-) (PIP EEC) and Positive battery cable connector.

Key on

If the LED Test Lamp is on, check the connectors, service or replace the harness. Otherwise go to N29.




N29 - CHECK PIP EEC FOR SHORTS TO VBAT
Connect LED Test Lamp between (-) Pin 1 on the Crankshaft Sensor (PIP EEC) and Negative battery cable connection.

Key On.

If the LED Test lamp is on, check the connectors, service or replace the harness. Otherwise go to N30.




N30 - CHECK CRANKSHAFT VANE
Check to make sure the crankshaft vane moves through sensor air gap when the engine is cranked. If it does, replace the Crankshaft Sensor. If not, then you have bigger problems. Search SCCOA for "Balancer" and "broken".

t that then the ecm.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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OK here we go again. When I try to start it it does try to start. There is a lest 3 time that it has started and ran for like 3 to 5 seconds. If I floor it and try to start it nothing happens. The car is a 91. I did hand turn the crank to check to see if it clears the sensor. But I don't know how to gap it. Also I don't know if this makes a difference but it is low and antifreeze because I also changed the belts. Also I don't have the electric fan plugged in. I did get 3 codes.

111 Systems PASS
114 Air charge temp sensor higher/lower than expected voltage
116 engine coolant temp higher/lower than expected

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
91 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/390762...super-coupe-2d
00 Explorer Sport: Wife's Daily Driver
00 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/392408...ort-utility-2d
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 06:16 PM
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I noticed nobody said Ignition Switch or Spark Plug Wires..

First thing you're gonna need is a Digital Multi-Meter..

To test your Ignition Switch..Get under the car and disconnect from the solenoid the wire that comes from the ignition switch... It connects to a push-on spade connector on the solenoid. Fuel-injected cars have two spade connectors on the solenoid. In that case, the ignition switch wire will be the heavier of the two wires...
Disconnect the wire, then use a voltmeter to check for 12v at that wire... Put the positive lead to the wire and ground the negative lead, then have your helper turn the key to start... When your helper does this, you should read 12v at the wire... If not, suspect a defective ignition switch or a break in the wiring (or disconnected) wire between the battery and ignition switch or ignition switch and starter....


To test your Spark Plug Wires..Touch the tip of one test probe (either one) to the metal plug on one end of your spark plug wire and then touch the tip of the other test probe to the metal plug on the other end of the spark plug wire... Make sure the test probe tips are both touching the metal ends of the spark plug wire at the same time in order to get a reading..

Normal plug wire resistance should be 10,000 to 15,000 ohms per foot of length. If it is higher, it is probably bad...

Good Luck!


Rayo...

.
.
1991 Ford Thunderbird Sport

"If you don't know where you're going..Any road will take you there." George Harrison
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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I will give that a shot. I does have new taylor 8mm wires on it. So I don't think they are bad but you never know.

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
91 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/390762...super-coupe-2d
00 Explorer Sport: Wife's Daily Driver
00 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/392408...ort-utility-2d
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 02:48 PM
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it could b the fuel pressure regulator. My buddy's s son had a problem like that. His went bad and dumped too much fuel and gas poured out the throttle body and soaked the air filter.

1990 Thunderbird SC 3.8 V6
180 degree thermostat, poly diff bushings & rear spindle bushings, 96 t bird trunk & taillights, full magnaflow exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, autometer dual gauge pillar pod & single gauge column pod, all interior lights l.e.d, 8000k HID headlights & foglights, l.e.d turn signals, cornering lights, license plates lights & reverse lights

UPDATE: Screamin Demon wires and coil, MP sc top, 6.5 Kicker component speakers and kicker amp, clarion tv radio.

1990 Thunderbird SC 3.8 V6 parts car

06 Suzuki Hayabusa 1300R
8000k HID lowbeam headlight, K&N Air filter, power commander, custom exhaust, lowered rear 3", chrome mesh kit, blue l.e.d lights through out bike, cutom hideaway plate, chrome pieces everywhere
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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This car is getting on my nerves.

91 SC 5 Speed: 3" drop springs, 10% OD blower pulley, 3.5" cold air intake, C&L 85mm MAF, MP 85mm TB, KW double IC, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, #42 injectors, Mach One hood, saleen mustang wing, Solid Rubber Motor & TransmissionMounts, Autodown Windows, Auto open moonroof, March underdrive pullies Plug and play key less entry module.
91 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/390762...super-coupe-2d
00 Explorer Sport: Wife's Daily Driver
00 Car Domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/392408...ort-utility-2d
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