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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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thermostat temp?

Which temperature thermostat should I use? I currently do not have one! My car stayed in the blue on my way to work. Where should my needle be on the gauge? Thanks
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 08:05 PM
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The stock thermostat is a 195F unit - ideally, you want to get a high flow unit, like the Ford replacement part.

Where should it be? Somewhere below the red ... the indash gauge can be VERY inaccurate. While replacing the thermostat, I'd replace the gauge's sending unit also (there's a TSB out on replacing ALL of them through something like 1995 due to bad crimps in the manufacturing process causing them to read low - or read high - or just jumping all over the place.)

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 08:07 PM
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If car is stock use the 192. If you can tune it get a 180. IMO anything form left side to center is ok think O-R, beyond that need to be concerned R-M beyond that shut it down.

If all else fails get a bigger hammer!

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. on the Interstate it sits around "m" maybe the "a" at 75 80ish, im thinking I don't have the right front bumper. It does not have the sc on the front. And its a 92 super coupe.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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And I have the two wire sensor changed with new wires solder on. How many one wire sensors are there I've changes the one on the passenger side and the one by the stat housing.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by justbert83 View Post
And I have the two wire sensor changed with new wires solder on. How many one wire sensors are there I've changes the one on the passenger side and the one by the stat housing.
On a 1992 SC? According to the exploded diagrams, there's one 1-wire temp sensor, one 1-wire CELO (temp switch used for the EATC), and a 2-wire for the ECU to use.

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justbert83
im thinking I don't have the right front bumper. It does not have the sc on the front. And its a 92 super coupe.
The "SC" embossed front bumpers were for the 89-91 SuperCoupes only..

92-93 SuperCoupes got the same bumper as the 92-93 Thunderbird LX V6/V8 cars..





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Last edited by Rayo; 12-23-2012 at 12:48 AM. Reason: correction..
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 12:44 AM
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92 bases actually still used the 89-91 Base/LX/91 sport bumper.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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I'm put a new 190 stat and see what happens, I have a new water pump and rad. Don't know what else could cause the temp to be high on the hwy way ?
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 10:45 AM
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Every Ford OEM thermostat I've bought for my SC is a 197F. I would not deviate away from stock unless you plan on tuning it.

Your front bumper is fine and if I had to take a wild guess, replacing the thermostat will result in 0 for fixing your problem.

I've owned 5 Supercoupes....... Not once have I ever had to replace the thermostat. If I did it was routine maintenance. Which maybe you're feeling you would like to do anyway, just wanted to give some pointers.

Oh and the gauge cluster has a ANTI SLOSH BOARD which controlls a lot on when it comes to the gauges. They go bad and can cuase the needle to read higher than it really is.

If you really want to do a diagnose you could buy a quarterhorse. This is what I've done and I'm able to see my ACTUAL reading from the ECT. I have a bad ANTI SLOSH BOARD, the gauge will read hot but my computer says I'm right around 200-205F

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 12:07 PM
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197F? Interesting, I don't think I've ever seen a 197, all the OEM's I've changed are usually 192*F.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 03:14 PM
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I'm put a new 190 stat and see what happens, I have a new water pump and rad. Don't know what else could cause the temp to be high on the hwy way ?
Is the air dam still on the car ? If it gets knocked off, it's not unusual to run hotter at highway speeds.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 03:36 PM
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Is the air dam still on the car ? If it gets knocked off, it's not unusual to run hotter at highway speeds.

David
I found this out at a track day after selling that piece on TCCOA a while ago
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 07:13 PM
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When I drive my 92' SC on a HPDE..it runs hot...........I turn on the heater full blast.
The chin spoiler does help some at higher speeds, but all my SC's have run alittle hot regardless.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 04:08 PM
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my SC always runs hot...it drives me nuts!
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 03:46 AM
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I running a large aluminum radiator and a 180 stat with no problems and I have a 10% pulley

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by renello79 View Post
I running a large aluminum radiator and a 180 stat with no problems and I have a 10% pulley
what kid of radiator are you running? I've been looking into upgrading mine, but I haven't found one that will fit in the stock location without moving the IC. If you can point me to a link, I'd appreciate it. I found this...seems weird that the aluminum one is cheaper than the metal one even though the metal one comes with an IC bracket
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/produ...aia_id=1140387

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 06:49 PM
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I got mine from buyaradiator.com then look up your car. Mine was 148 + shipping. The OEM replacement for an from auto zone was over 230 I think.

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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 06:59 PM
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I got mine from buyaradiator.com then look up your car. Mine was 148 + shipping. The OEM replacement for an from auto zone was over 230 I think.
Did it bolt right in, and no problems with OEM cap fitting?

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 01:36 PM
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It's a direct swap, nothing to it no modification required. Worth every penny.

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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 06:07 PM
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It's a direct swap, nothing to it no modification required. Worth every penny.
Thanks man

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 06:25 PM
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No problem.

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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-26-2013, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 90coug View Post
Every Ford OEM thermostat I've bought for my SC is a 197F. I would not deviate away from stock unless you plan on tuning it.

Your front bumper is fine and if I had to take a wild guess, replacing the thermostat will result in 0 for fixing your problem.

I've owned 5 Supercoupes....... Not once have I ever had to replace the thermostat. If I did it was routine maintenance. Which maybe you're feeling you would like to do anyway, just wanted to give some pointers.

Oh and the gauge cluster has a ANTI SLOSH BOARD which controlls a lot on when it comes to the gauges. They go bad and can cuase the needle to read higher than it really is.

If you really want to do a diagnose you could buy a quarterhorse. This is what I've done and I'm able to see my ACTUAL reading from the ECT. I have a bad ANTI SLOSH BOARD, the gauge will read hot but my computer says I'm right around 200-205F
I have an external autometer temp gauge, I forget exactly how I installed it (it was ten years ago) I think I ran a sensor to the t-stat housing maybe? I'd think if I did that I'd get an accurate reading even if anti slosh board is bad, right? I just ordered a Griffin radiator anyway to cool it down. That said I've had two different gauge clusters n my 90 SC, and both read hot

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Last edited by SuperCoupe; 04-07-2013 at 02:35 PM.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-26-2013, 06:05 PM
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Oh and the gauge cluster has a ANTI SLOSH BOARD which controlls a lot on when it comes to the gauges. They go bad and can cuase the needle to read higher than it really is.

If you really want to do a diagnose you could buy a quarterhorse. This is what I've done and I'm able to see my ACTUAL reading from the ECT. I have a bad ANTI SLOSH BOARD, the gauge will read hot but my computer says I'm right around 200-205F
Well, there IS a TSB on some of the one-wire temperature sensors failing to read high (and another for them failing reading low ... ).

The anti-slosh board just monitors the actual voltage and decides if it should light the "CHECK GAUGES" light. Now, it CAN fail and peg it either way, but the schematic I've sussed out pretty much says it won't cause one to just read high - that's more likely the sending unit.

Just a note.

Oh, now, for the FUEL gauge, it's different - that gauge has NO direct connection to the sending unit, it's off the anti-slosh portion of the board only.

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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-07-2013, 02:33 PM
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Question

I ended up buying a griffin from SCP. I should have it soon. I'm running a 185 t-stat, and I had no idea it wasn't ok to use without a tuner. A fellow SC'er suggested I install the 185 saying it would help cool it down, but I don't think it did at all. When my Griffin comes in, Im going to drop a 192 back in it, change all my hoses and belts, and check everything out real good. Hopefully this will do the trick. I also run a 10% OD SC pulley. I don't know how much cooler it would get if I went to a 5 or back to stock.

Not to run too far off subject, but are those "Jet" performance modules on eBay just junk, or are they worth installing?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys, and sorry Bert, didn't mean to hijack, but having very similar issues, and questions, it didn't make sense to start a new thread


Jeff

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 12:22 PM
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I ended up buying a griffin from SCP. I should have it soon. I'm running a 185 t-stat, and I had no idea it wasn't ok to use without a tuner. A fellow SC'er suggested I install the 185 saying it would help cool it down, but I don't think it did at all. When my Griffin comes in, Im going to drop a 192 back in it, change all my hoses and belts, and check everything out real good. Hopefully this will do the trick. I also run a 10% OD SC pulley. I don't know how much cooler it would get if I went to a 5 or back to stock.

Not to run too far off subject, but are those "Jet" performance modules on eBay just junk, or are they worth installing?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys, and sorry Bert, didn't mean to hijack, but having very similar issues, and questions, it didn't make sense to start a new thread


Jeff
Jeff,

The Griffin will really help with cooling, and the 5 vs. 10% od doesn't really matter because most people are only into boost for a few seconds at a time. I would avoid any pre-programed chips like Jet and Hypertech and get a custom tune/chip from someone like Dave Dalke instead.

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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 03:29 PM
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Jeff,

The Griffin will really help with cooling, and the 5 vs. 10% od doesn't really matter because most people are only into boost for a few seconds at a time. I would avoid any pre-programed chips like Jet and Hypertech and get a custom tune/chip from someone like Dave Dalke instead.

David
Thanks very much Dave...I was really hoping to hear that. I figured those ebay chips weren't really worth buying/installing. I just don't know enough about chips in general. They make me nervous for some reason! When & if I do go down that road, I will inquire with Dave D..thanks again for the advise.

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