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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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car wont start

i have a 95 5 speed that wont crank,click or anything,batterys hot,fuses good,and the blower motor for the ac is on high but the switch is off any ideas what the hell is going on here.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 06:53 PM
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Not sure about birds, But cars in my past if the clutch safely switch goes bad it did the same as you have described . Not sure why if at all that would mess with the fan .

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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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i thought the same thing about the safety switch,but the thing that has me stumped is the blower motor running on high when its off.I am starting to wonder if the ignition switch could make things go haywire.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 11:03 PM
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The ignition switch is a prime suspect.

Have you tried jumping the fender solenoid to see if it kicks the starter over?

RwP
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Ralph,i did not know they had a fender solenoid,i believe its on the starter am i right?
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 05:50 AM
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There's one on the starter, yes.

There's ALSO one on the inner fender by the battery. That's the one I'm talking about bypassing. Or just jumping to the coil terminal from the battery terminal and seeing if the starter then cranks.

Don't ask me why Ford does the double-solenoid job.

Well, TECHNICALLY, it's just a relay up high on the fender.

Here's a pic of one that may be there, courtesy of RockAuto:

[IMG]www.rockauto.com/info/SMP/SS598T_PRIMARY.jpg[/IMG]

Take the connector that has the wire clipped to it (the one with the 6-32 thread), pull the connector off, jump it to the battery terminal, and see if the starter cranks.

If it does, it's not the wiring from there down, so you've got THAT section tested.

Next, if it doesn't, is to jump the battery and starter posts (usually done with a big screwdriver. This can cause lots of sparks, and you want to hear it just spin -don't try to start it that way!) If THAT works, then the problem is the relay there.

If, however, it does spin over with the first test, then if it's the original ignition switch, I'd grab a new one and replace it on general principles.

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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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never have changed the ignition switch,does the steering wheel have to be removed ,or the column covers
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 02:28 PM
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Ralph,

I dont believe the 95 had the solenoid up on the fender well like the older cars. I think that stopped in 93. I think the 94s and 95s only had the solenoid on the starter.

I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you

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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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jumped the solenoid and it cranked over,so ignition switch?,would it make the bloac blower malfunction also?
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:53 PM
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Was I wrong, is there a fender mounted solenoid?

I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you

Tim

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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:56 PM
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If the ignition switch has gone bad then electrical gremlins of all sorts are possible.

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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no the solenoid is on the starter
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by sleeper bird View Post
no the solenoid is on the starter
There's a solenoid on the starter, yes.

But - hey! That big relay on the fender? Is also known as a solenoid because it's a solenoid style relay!

(They were THE solenoid before Ford started using solenoids on the starter also, instead of just a Bendix style drive. But I digress ... )

The one on the fender sends current down to the starter mounted solenoid, whereas the actual starter motor is wired up to the switched portion of the starter solenoid all the time.

But it's a good first check - jump the solenoid on the fender, and see if it kicks the starter then.

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 10:04 AM
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I don't know about the SCs, but starting 1994 there is no fender mounted relay on the XR7s or LXs.

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
I don't know about the SCs, but starting 1994 there is no fender mounted relay on the XR7s or LXs.
There isn't ever for the 4.6, they only used the starter-mounted relay/solenoid.

Ford doesn't list the fender relay on the 1994 or 1995 SC, it turns out. Welp, I'm a bit embarrassed ... I could have sworn that ALL SCs had the solenoid up high. It's listed in more than one parts book. Just like the PCV filter that my car doesn't have

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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oh well ralph.no ones perfect,if i were i probably would not even own a sc,they are a challenge to keep them running correctly thats for sure.
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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ok well i changed the ignition switch,still wont crank.No click nothing,So i changed the clutch safety switch nothing the only thing i have not changed is the key cylinder,but i dont think that has anything to do with it i wouldnt think.The other day when i went to push it in the garage to change the ignition switch i tried to start it just to see and it cranked up.Turned it off a couple of times everything seemed to work right then again it stopped cranking no click anything.Thats when i changed the above parts.I also cant explain why the blower motor is on full blast i completely unplugged the controll and it slill is running.I am starting to wonder if its computer related.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 10:20 PM
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If the blower motor is still on full blast on the fully automatic temperature control with it unplugged, then the blower speed control module is fried.

The HVAC head doesn't actually control the blower speed, it controls the blower speed control module - which DOES control the blower speed.

It's an electronic version of the blower speed resistor, basically.

As I said earlier, you really need to lay hands on the EVTM for your car.

And don't chase everything down at once! Work on the won't-start.

But with what you're describing, if it's not the ignition switch, there's a fair chance it's battery wiring connections (note: can be at EITHER end of the cable!) and/or the solenoid on the starter itself.

Sounds like time to crawl underneath with a remote starter switch and see if you can get it to kick with that when it won't with the key.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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just to update a little,all of the battery cables have been replaced,but i will see about a remote starter,thanks for the input.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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also i guess i was thinking that both were related to each other.
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 06:02 AM
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If you've replaced the ignition switch, then all that's left in common are the battery cables. But then, both would be just as dead.

With the SATC dead and the starter intermittent, it's time to chase them separate - starter first (what good is a working A/C unit if the motor's not running kind of deal).

Do remember that the starter turning over has NOTHING to do with the ECU. Now, if it's spinning great guns but not starting - that's a different story. Even so, there's enough OTHER failure points that I'd not worry about the ECU until all else has been eliminated.

This also has to do with how reliable the EEC-IV and EEC-V ECUs are, compared to DISes, ignition switches, and battery cable connections.

You say the battery cables have been replaced. I'd be checking the block/starter ends of both also, since if either is loose, you'll get intermittent won't-start problems.

And double-check the battery post ends. Just because someone replaced it doesn't mean there's not corrosion in the post/cable interface!

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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your up early this morning Ralph,i will jack the car up and check the connections today hopefully,there was an issue with the small wire that goes to the starter a few years ago.maybe that could be happening again.I believe it to be something simple.i will update soon.
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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pulled the starter out to have it checked and it did not want to spin,i said good and bought a new one replaced it and nothing same condition.Any idea where to get a remote starter set up?I have an aftermarket alarm im wondering if it has some sort of disable on it,i checked all of the functions on the remote key fob everything works as it should and the battery has been disconnected.man im agitated with this thing.
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 08:43 PM
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Before I connected a remote starter setup, I'd use a remote starter SWITCH.

Something like this one.

That can verify if it's the starter or not, also if it's the solenoid or not.

After verifying the starter does, or does not, work, you can then chase the problem down further (do I get voltage when someone turns the key at that little wire at the starter solenoid? If I prod the ignition switch, does it change there? Is it dead going into the ignition switch? Etc. etc.)

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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so when you turn the key to start the small wire should show 12v?i bought a remote starter switch and it turns over with that.Is there a fusable link in the small wire?
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 07:29 PM
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It should, yes. So now we need to find where the voltage stops.

No, there isn't a fusable link there, according to the EVTM.

I'm back to suggesting checking the ignition switch and its wiring, since the EVTM shows it goes from the battery to the clutch position switch or jumper, and from there (for an auto) to the MLP, and from there to the start interrupt relay if it has the antitheft option, and from there to the starter.

To help, they're wires red/light blue off the ignition switch, to the Clutch Position Switch or Clutch Position Jumper, from the jumper it's still red/light blue to the MLP on the transmission, from there (or from the Clutch Pedal Position Switch on a 5 speed) it's white / pink to a junction (if no antitheft) or the starter interrupt relay (if it has anti-theft), where it changes back to a red/light blue wire to the starter.

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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yea there was no power to the solenoid,i checked it with a test light,i dont have an ohm meter.i noticed a tap into the black and orange wire on the ignition switch i believe that goes to an aftermarket alarm thats on the car.I will check the wires as you stated,thanks Ralph.The small wire that goes to the starter is solid black and it has a connection under the intercooler tube by the battery i will disconnect it tomorrow and see what i get,
.
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 08:30 PM
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It's also possible that the aftermarket alarm is acting up...

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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
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yea im gonna try to rule that out today hopefully
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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ok so i have juice on ignition switch pin #sta key to start,then i checked the clutch safety switch,pulled the connector offchecked pin #1 and 2 and nothing so apparently i have an issue between ignition and clutch safety switch.I will try and trace the wire going to switch a little later.just to be clear 12v should go from ignition to pin #2 and then when clutch is depressed it should go out through pin#1 correct?or do i have that backward.just to update its a 95 standard

Last edited by sleeper bird; 04-03-2013 at 08:15 AM. Reason: misspelling
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