a whole LOAD of problems - codes included - HELP!! (long) - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-18-2003, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy a whole LOAD of problems - codes included - HELP!! (long)

ok, I am ready to take the car to ford, but this is a last ditch effort to see if anyone can figure any of this out...
codes:
52 (power steering pressure switch), 25 (knock sensor), 76 (insufficant air flow), 117 and 61 (engine coolant temp. sensor - voltage too low)

ok not sure about these at all - power steering switch??? where is the knock sensor (I think on the pass side on the oil pan?)and what exactlly does this do? I was told it just tells you if your oil is too low... insufficant air flow - what the heck?? and the collant problem...

I have a 91 SC bored 30 over with 70k and 700 miles on the engine. I reset the eec and put the origional MAF back on. now it does overheat alittle, it goes past the "m" in warm on the thermostat gauge. I was recommended to just remove the thermostat, allowing the coolant to flow right into the engine with no restrictions and you only really need the t-stat in the winter correct - would this be good to do? Has anyone done this? also for the temp porblems (I do have underdrive pulleys), autozone recommended that I get a temp switch and a coolant temp. sensor. Now this is what confuses me here - I have a brand new coolant temp. sensor - from autozone - that's been in the engine only 700 miles - would it be possibly bad? and as for the temp. switch - doesn't that just tell the fan when to trun on? if so that should be fine...

now the idle problems - I dunno what insufficant airflow means, but the stock MAF is fine, I have a new TPS from ford (even measured the resistance it seems fine) now I have 2 idle air control valves - it is currentlly bypassed. with it bypassed, the car wants to stall right when I start it, then after driving it for about a minute, it idles right at 1000 rpm (I adusted the throttle plate open alittle to compensate for the IAC being blocked off), but when the car warms up, I can have it in neutral and drift and as long as the car is moving it will stay at 1000 rpm, but as soon as I come to a stop, the rpms instantlly drop, and go to about 500 and the car starts shaking, and usually will stall out unless I give it gas to keep it alive. I have tried countless times to put the IAC's in, and switch them, and ajust the throttle plate back to closed, but the car idles at a steady 2000 rpms (its like they are stuck on open I guess?). Could in my rotten luck, happen to have 2 bad IAC's? I know with it idling at 2000 rpms, I would disconnect the IAC connector so the computer won't tell it what to do, and it won't manke any difference in the idle at all - is this normal?
I am so confused in what to do it is really distrubing, and all these problems at once I am trying to change just one thing at a time, but I don't know what to do anymore... please help me!!

*a sad, frusterated SC owner*

91 sc - put the stockgears back on, underdrive pullyes, rear air hydraulics, headers, no cats or resonator, lowered 1 1/2", 10% pulley, cam, 70k, rebuilt engine bored .30 over, finally fixed!
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 02:33 AM
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Location: SouthEastern PA
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Your knock sensor listens for detonation in the engine, and tells the computer to retard engine timing if it hears any. It basically protects you from bad gas, etc. I think it is on the passenger side, either in the oil pan or in the block near it, I forget which.

I don't think removing your thermostat is a good idea. But I did hear that the SuperCoupe uses a special thermostat that doesn't work the same as the standard 3.8L one.

With the coolant temp sensor, well, remember there are two different ones - one for the gauges and one for the EEC. It could be bad, or it could be the wires or connectors. Or maybe there is air trapped in the system and it isn't getting good readings?

I dunno about your IACs, but that's one of the first places I would look for an idle problem.

Hmm, thought: Maybe your idle is high because the computer is in "warm-up" mode, trying to compensate for the bad temperature readings?

-------------------

Steve

Owner, 1990 Thunderbird SC, white w/ gray cloth
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-19-2003, 06:31 PM
 
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Another thought, EEC's have been known to go bad on occasion, and when they do they start tossing a bunch of codes at once.
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