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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-03-2007, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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breaking the flange bolts?

Guess it isn't common breaking the flange bolts/nuts at the manifold downtubes, a little worried about breaking them. Does it happen at all?

I need to get the exhaust off for tranny crossmember bushings and tranny mount replacement.

Should I just not worry too much about it and shoot 'em with croil?

Rod

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-03-2007, 09:17 PM
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i broke mine off. all i did to repair it was drill em out and use bolts. you could also drill tap and insert new studs. just plan on it happening
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-03-2007, 09:39 PM
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Soak it with tons of PB Blaster. Let it soak overnight. Respray it before you go to bed. They should come off fine.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 08:37 PM
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I soaked mine with WD40.. and used a impact gun..

got em off and back on with no problems..

jest make sure you use a good tight heavy duty socket..
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 08:40 PM
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i had to cut mine with a dremel. actually only cut one. i broke the other one off with a socket and a 2' breaker bar and my strong arms! i know, you wanna see pics, but i'm not gonna show off my guns the other side came off fairly easy with soaking in silicon penetrating grease. good luck. i'm sure at least one will break

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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yea, I'm gonna soak them in silikroil overnight and just before the job. Then heat them up pretty good. Then I think a little soak just before I remove them slow and carefully. Any binding will hopefully tell me I could snap one if I kept going for too long. Heat again and kroil again for another night probably. Maybe one weakend worrying about them bolts and plan on another weekend removing the crossmember. Because I think its a big pain in the butt to drill one or more out, high grade steel (10.9) aren't they?

Anythink better than Silikroil for the price!?


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Actually I'm in Texas now!
And boy don't I miss the Cold.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 09:02 PM
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take them to a shop and have them drilled if you break'em. and have them put new ones on while you're there.

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1995 Thunderbird - 2002 Alum 4.6L SVO - Awaiting transplant... (Parts donor)

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2007, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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I can drill them out, I was just saying it's a real pain if I do though.

What size and length bolts did you use!

Rod


Last edited by snowchicken; 09-13-2007 at 05:43 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-12-2007, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowchicken View Post
I can drill them out, I was just saying it's a real pain if I do thought.

What size and length bolts did you use!

Rod
was this directed to me? when i broke/cut mine, i already had 97 stock shorties planned to go back in. i scrapped the 94 manifolds.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-09-2007, 10:23 PM
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are the 97s better than the 94s manifolds for the 4.6? And you dont have to drop the exhaust to change either cross member bushings or tranny mount. I didnt, I managed to wiggle my hands with a knife to scrape out the old rubber. You do need a jack though. I just put a socket in between the body of the car and the bushing and jacked up the cross member til the socket shot out with the majority of the bushing, you use the reverse Idea to press the bushings back in. Just use the weight of the car and a jack plus a well placed socket to ensure the bushing is totally pressed it. I never touched the exhaust when I did this. And yes the tranny mount can be unbolted when you change the bushings. So im not sure if it quicker but I liked not touching the exhaust. You need some good scraping tools to get out the rubber btw, and I used a blow torch lighter to loosen most of the old rubber.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 12:17 AM
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Am I the only one who thought to just cut the downtube where it levels out, before it reaches the crossmember? I just cut the exhaust pipe, remove the exhaust system, then do the work under the car. To reattach it I use a set of 2" exhaust band clamps from NAPA.

Oh yea, I've only broken 1 flange bolt, and I've removed 4 different flanges/manifolds.


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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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Well, coming from NH and those salty roads, here is how it went or what somebody out there may need.

There were only the threads left over under the 15mm nut, on the passenger side rear stud.
The forward passenger side stud was rusted almost as bad - it snapped.

The driver's side forward stud also snapped, it was just about as bad.
* For those of you who didn't look yet, the driver's side rear stud on the exhaust manifold is a bolt from the factory (94/95's and probably 96/97's)

So I replaced everything with 2 bolts on the passenger side and 1 bolt and 1,
3/8" stud on the drivers side forward.

Let me tell you that those are some rugged bolts/studs that only carbide tips or pure carbide bits will drill out. Better have 'em ready for this job before you take that exhaust down!

I didn't have them all, 1/8", 3/16"and 3/8" is what you need and a second 1/8" or set would be good too.
Try going around town or calling everybody you can to get those. Ordering online is the best bet though. Thank God a hardware store had them.
Cobalt and titanium bits will never get through any grade 8 or 10.9 bolt.
An air drill is favored over any electric drill too.
Tapped with a 4 flute (is a 3 better? I forget) and some tapping fluid (not easy to tap for a number of reasons). One, being the angles involved.

Now that it's done, I can go ahead and do those bushings on the crossmember.
I'm just going to swap the crossmember out with another one, pre worked with the bushings already pressed in.

I already swapped out the cats/downpipes while I was at it.

Your idea of using the car and a socket to press those bushings in is a pretty good one. That exhaust had to come off anyways with the mileage being 150k and the cats probably due soon also. The starter is another probability in the future to be replaced, not sure if I would need to remove the exhaust to take it down. Actually I think you don't need to take down the exhaust.

Your idea of using the car to press those bushings in will surely help somebody out there save some money and/or time (looking for a press).

It's done.

Rod

oh, and get yourself a pillow for your head - you'll be down there under the car for a while, you don't need the neck cramps you'll have plenty of head cramps!


Last edited by snowchicken; 10-10-2007 at 01:11 AM.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 11:26 PM
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yes my neck was done and toasted when I was done under the car. I got the idea from the MN12 performance site using a press and socket/cup. So why not let the car be your press lol. I didnt have a pillow either.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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