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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-28-2007, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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4.6 header install?

when installing kooks 3/4 length headers is there any clearance issues? as far as starter and engine bay?
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-29-2007, 07:42 AM
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they fit pretty tight

not recommended to do in car


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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-29-2007, 09:41 PM
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drop the k....

or

disconnect the motor mounts and lift the motor about 2 inches and fight the whole time

or

pull the heads... connect them with stage 8 locking fasteners.... be done reinstall heads... enjoy

there really is no easy way

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 03:05 PM
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I put mine on while the engine was out. If I didn't have a mark 8 oil pan it would have gone in like butter.

Dropping the K member is probably the easiest way.




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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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well i was thinking about pulling the motor again. when i do the pi swap or i was wondering when doing the pi swap if just putting them on with the motor still in. just pulling heads. but i think it would be easier to pull motor and do it that way. while i build the motor up more than what it is .
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 09:57 PM
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if you are gonna do a pi motor swap, then just wait and do it all at once


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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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no i just gonna swap out the heads and put 234/238 duration comp cams and trickflow intake. the bottom end of my motor is already built up. but i think it would be easier to just pull the motor again and do the swap on the cherry picker. then put it back in. you think that would be the easiest?
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 01:49 AM
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instead of cherry picker put it on an engine stand so when you retorque the head the engine won't swing everywhere to make your life easier and get enough leverage for accurrate torque spec.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 06:22 AM
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really, it's only another half step..


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94fastbird View Post
no i just gonna swap out the heads and put 234/238 duration comp cams and trickflow intake. the bottom end of my motor is already built up. but i think it would be easier to just pull the motor again and do the swap on the cherry picker. then put it back in. you think that would be the easiest?

If your pulling the heads.... why bother with the picker???? Just pull the heads, bolt up the cams and headers on a bench, and reinstall.... no messing with the motor mounts or tranny bolts, or flex plate. Just be sure to get a bag of rubber bands for the head to block bolts on top of your cylinder head swap kit from ford, and stage 8 locking washers for the headers. This is one of those things to do right the first time.

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-04-2007, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
If your pulling the heads.... why bother with the picker???? Just pull the heads, bolt up the cams and headers on a bench, and reinstall.... no messing with the motor mounts or tranny bolts, or flex plate. Just be sure to get a bag of rubber bands for the head to block bolts on top of your cylinder head swap kit from ford, and stage 8 locking washers for the headers. This is one of those things to do right the first time.
When re-installing the heads, do not just bolt everything up and go. I would degree the cams to see that they are timed where they are supposed to be.

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-04-2007, 08:20 PM
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When re-installing the heads, do not just bolt everything up and go. I would degree the cams to see that they are timed where they are supposed to be.
I always seem to forget to recommend that... but yes you must degree your cams

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-31-2007, 12:07 AM
 
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by degreeing your cams what do you mean? i had a broken intake valve spring on my stock heads. i picked up some stock 96 style heads and had them rebuilt, im just about to reinstall in the car. those heads should be a direct swap correct? suggestions......
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-31-2007, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackenziet View Post
by degreeing your cams what do you mean? i had a broken intake valve spring on my stock heads. i picked up some stock 96 style heads and had them rebuilt, im just about to reinstall in the car. those heads should be a direct swap correct? suggestions......
the cams dont need to be degreed.




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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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most ppl only degrees the cams for full on race motors, for the most accurate cam timing, like great obucina said u dont need to degree them, i didn't degree mine when i rebuilt the motor and it run perfectly fine.

Current Mods:
balanced & blueprinted block. by my dad & I @ (The Engine Shop INC.) i'm running manley forged i beam rods, forged manely .020 16cc dish pistons, forged 8 bolt crankshaft thats been polished, corba high volume oil pump, block has been align bored & decked. ported and polished early production heads, heads have been milled, 3 angle valve grind, ported exhaust manifolds, gasket matched intake, dual inlet dual outlet dynomax turbo muffler underseat with 3inch turndowns. transmission heavy duty clutches, b&m shift kit, frrp t lock with 373.
Future Mods:
pi swap with some comp cams and the new trickflow intake, high stall torque converter and mark 8 drive shaft, kooks 3/4 lenth headers and xcal2
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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just get the marks lined up follow the chiltons, or hayes manual and u'll be fine, degree consist of dial indicator with 4 inch extention, screw inpost for dial indicator, positive stop tool solid vavle adjuster, timing wheel, pointer, camshaft lock tool, racker arm installation tool. you dont need this to put your 4.6 in time. it's nice to have your cams degreed while doing intall but it's not required.

Current Mods:
balanced & blueprinted block. by my dad & I @ (The Engine Shop INC.) i'm running manley forged i beam rods, forged manely .020 16cc dish pistons, forged 8 bolt crankshaft thats been polished, corba high volume oil pump, block has been align bored & decked. ported and polished early production heads, heads have been milled, 3 angle valve grind, ported exhaust manifolds, gasket matched intake, dual inlet dual outlet dynomax turbo muffler underseat with 3inch turndowns. transmission heavy duty clutches, b&m shift kit, frrp t lock with 373.
Future Mods:
pi swap with some comp cams and the new trickflow intake, high stall torque converter and mark 8 drive shaft, kooks 3/4 lenth headers and xcal2
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 10:23 PM
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most ppl only degrees the cams for full on race motors, for the most accurate cam timing, like great obucina said u dont need to degree them, i didn't degree mine when i rebuilt the motor and it run perfectly fine.
degreeing a set of cams SHOULD be done on any aftermarket camshaft...period.




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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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i've know guy's that didn't degrees theres with aftermarket and didn't have any problems they weren't as high as lift as most cams are, i know i'm going to degree mine when i do my pi head swap

Current Mods:
balanced & blueprinted block. by my dad & I @ (The Engine Shop INC.) i'm running manley forged i beam rods, forged manely .020 16cc dish pistons, forged 8 bolt crankshaft thats been polished, corba high volume oil pump, block has been align bored & decked. ported and polished early production heads, heads have been milled, 3 angle valve grind, ported exhaust manifolds, gasket matched intake, dual inlet dual outlet dynomax turbo muffler underseat with 3inch turndowns. transmission heavy duty clutches, b&m shift kit, frrp t lock with 373.
Future Mods:
pi swap with some comp cams and the new trickflow intake, high stall torque converter and mark 8 drive shaft, kooks 3/4 lenth headers and xcal2
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 11:05 PM
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i've know guy's that didn't degrees theres with aftermarket and didn't have any problems they weren't as high as lift as most cams are, i know i'm going to degree mine when i do my pi head swap
i dont care what others fail to do, its their lost power. I also dont care what requires less effort...lift doesnt matter, if its an aftermarket grind, degree it.




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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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i know what u mean, i'm just saying what i've seen, they didn't want to spend the extra money to have the shop do it or spend the time to do it them selfs, when i put mine in i'm gonna do it, cause ever little bit of power helps. i didn't degree mine cause there stock cams.

Current Mods:
balanced & blueprinted block. by my dad & I @ (The Engine Shop INC.) i'm running manley forged i beam rods, forged manely .020 16cc dish pistons, forged 8 bolt crankshaft thats been polished, corba high volume oil pump, block has been align bored & decked. ported and polished early production heads, heads have been milled, 3 angle valve grind, ported exhaust manifolds, gasket matched intake, dual inlet dual outlet dynomax turbo muffler underseat with 3inch turndowns. transmission heavy duty clutches, b&m shift kit, frrp t lock with 373.
Future Mods:
pi swap with some comp cams and the new trickflow intake, high stall torque converter and mark 8 drive shaft, kooks 3/4 lenth headers and xcal2
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 11:26 PM
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Well if the cams are off, is there even a way to bring them into spec? I would imagine that a full tooth adjustment would be too much and the Fidanza adjustable gears from what I’ve read are crappola unless you maybe modify them.

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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 11:32 PM
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the OEM gears. Hack the tooth, adjust where necessary and the torque the bolt.




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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
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i know what u mean, i'm just saying what i've seen, they didn't want to spend the extra money to have the shop do it or spend the time to do it them selfs, when i put mine in i'm gonna do it, cause ever little bit of power helps. i didn't degree mine cause there stock cams.
even the motors assembled by ford have been found to have some sloppy cam tolerances. I didnt degree mine I just made sure to turn the motor over a few times by hand to check for clearance. Im running low lift stage 2s

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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-02-2007, 10:11 AM
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