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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-20-2008, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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MAC Long-tube install progress

Hopefully with allot of help from MadMikeyL I will have my long tubes installed this weekend.
Just to make sure everything goes smooth, I've been doing all of the small details at work.

I had to get a bung for the EGR tube and weld it in.
Then make a EGR tube from freebie parts at the exhaust shop (94-95 mustang tube obsolete).
I had the Guy at the shop make me collectors for $20.00

And I modified the steering shaft for some extra clearance (if needed)

I will post more pics as progress continues.














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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Well we put in the headers today and the funny thing is the passenger side was the hardest.
I used my modified steering shaft but I could have gotten away with the original just fine.
I also had to replace the starter for the headers to clear. I still had the 1989 direct drive starter that came with the car installed, So I put in the 91 small body starter. Tomorrow I'll post a video of the sound.

I also installed Flowmasters 3 day's ago.

This is definitely the most noticeable performance mod I have done to this car.

If anybody has a 5.0 in there car, before you do anything else CHANGE THE STOCK MANIFOLDS TO HEADERS!!







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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 07:39 PM
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Did you have to make them clear the floor? Also what is the number on these? They look great and it would be cool to get a nice set of headers.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Not really, but they do touch a little. the number is tfa9358 by MAC.

I still can't get over the difference in performance and sound.

This should defiantly be the first thing on anybodies list.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 09:14 PM
 
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how much did thay cost and were did you get them?
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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I bought them from Blown306 for $200 plus shipping, but they were more then that new.

I see them on Ebay once in a wile, They are 1 5/8th" MAC long-tube headers for 86-93 FOX mustang's with a AOD automatic.

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1994 Thunderbird, 4.6 V8, PI heads, SVO Blower, 8# pulley, 2.5 duel exhaust, 4R70W, MarkVIII converter, Mark VIII differential, Trac-Loc, 3.73 gears, H&R 1.5 lowering springs, bilstien rear shocks and SC front struts.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 09:35 PM
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I just bought a set from TRE Performance. They were the cheapest place I found after an exhaustive Google search ("exhaustive" in the sense that I checked every link Google brought back for TFA9358, not in the "crap I'm tired" sense) at $237.02, free shipping, AND their website shows them as in-stock. I'll report back when I get some confirmation that they do in fact exist and are en-route to me.

math > pasta
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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I just bought a set from TRE Performance. They were the cheapest place I found after an exhaustive Google search ("exhaustive" in the sense that I checked every link Google brought back for TFA9358, not in the "crap I'm tired" sense) at $237.02, free shipping, AND their website shows them as in-stock. I'll report back when I get some confirmation that they do in fact exist and are en-route to me.
You will not believe the difference!!! I can't believe how restrictive the stock system was.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClintD View Post
You will not believe the difference!!! I can't believe how restrictive the stock system was.
I'm looking forward to it

I already have coated MAC shorties, so the difference won't be as great, but these will still be a big step up from the shorties. These headers will be supporting mods for a *cough* "larger" project

math > pasta
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 01:41 AM
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Do you think you will get enough exhaust flow for the EGR to operate properly from just the one cylinder?

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Do you think you will get enough exhaust flow for the EGR to operate properly from just the one cylinder?
I wasn't sure, but After checking around, that is how the 94-95 mustang is connected.

I'm not really to concerned at how efficient the EGR operates. I just need it to be emission legal. As soon as I go to inspection and they hear how it sounds they will open the hood and make sure everything is there.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 08:01 PM
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It turns out those headers are "at the coaters," he said 2 weeks, we'll see what happens.

So now that I have money invested... other than the steering shaft and general wrestling, what other hiccups did you run into in the install? Floor pan beating? Raised motor?

math > pasta
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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It turns out those headers are "at the coaters," he said 2 weeks, we'll see what happens.

So now that I have money invested... other than the steering shaft and general wrestling, what other hiccups did you run into in the install? Floor pan beating? Raised motor?
It's just touching the floor at the flange, but other then that it was OK.

Also I had to change the starter, I still had the old 1989 direct drive starter in there and the headers wouldn't fit around it. So I put in a starter from a 1991.
I'll post a video of it running when I get home.

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1994 Thunderbird, 4.6 V8, PI heads, SVO Blower, 8# pulley, 2.5 duel exhaust, 4R70W, MarkVIII converter, Mark VIII differential, Trac-Loc, 3.73 gears, H&R 1.5 lowering springs, bilstien rear shocks and SC front struts.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 08:40 PM
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good luck on the headers as they dont make them anymore, i got the 1.75 ceramic coated for 360 shipped to my door from mac, they are in i just am having a hard time cutting through the subframe for the side exhaust
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClintD View Post
It's just touching the floor at the flange, but other then that it was OK.

Also I had to change the starter, I still had the old 1989 direct drive starter in there and the headers wouldn't fit around it. So I put in a starter from a 1991.
I'll post a video of it running when I get home.

Thanks for the info. If clearance is that close, we'll see how it goes on mine. I'm not betting on identical tolerances from ford.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 25svo
good luck on the headers as they dont make them anymore, i got the 1.75 ceramic coated for 360 shipped to my door from mac, they are in i just am having a hard time cutting through the subframe for the side exhaust
that's what I had heard, so when I found a place that said "in stock" (I found a couple actually), I jumped on it. Although, at least with this place, "in stock" was an oversight. The guy called me in person about it, let me know what they said, and that he'd keep me posted. So if nothing else, the guy doesn't seem flakey. We'll see

math > pasta
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-26-2008, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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OK

Here's a link to the video I just posted CLICK HERE

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 07:31 PM
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BTW, my TFA9358s showed up the other day. I was very happy with TRE Performance's customer service. I got personal phone call updates without having to ask for them. AND they had the cheapest price on them (that I could find) plus free shipping. I'll let everyone know how the install goes whenever I get around to it.

math > pasta
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 08:12 PM
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that sounds tight bro....i'm jealous.

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-18-2008, 03:29 PM
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What did you do the the steering shaft? Is it because the car is a 5.0 that you did not have to mod it? I see that you welded a section into it, but what did you do? Lengthen, shorten, reroute? I have seen the post from what Bruce did no his bird, but if you did not have to mod yours, I want to know why.

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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-18-2008, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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I made it narrower. I wanted to make sure there was enough clearance and now I have a half inch. If I left the shaft alone I would probably have less then a quarter inch clearance.

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-18-2008, 06:29 PM
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Okay. Did you keep the stock length and location other than that?

Chris

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-18-2008, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Okay. Did you keep the stock length and location other than that?

Chris
location and length are the same.

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-18-2008, 09:29 PM
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Solid...Thanks.

Chris

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-19-2008, 08:24 PM
 
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Looks like an awesome exhaust. Just the improvement in sound is worth it. I couldn't emphasize enough how the frpp stainless shorties improved the power of my stock engine. Some people didn't believe it was 20 hp or more. Doing the complete 2.5 dual exhaust at the same time helped too. Would have done longtubes if I knew they fit. I did the steering mod to fit Mustang shorties At least they are about the best flowing 1 5/8" shorties you can get.
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-05-2008, 01:45 PM
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Has anyone tried the BBK longtubes in place of the MAC units?

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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-05-2008, 06:32 PM
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I tried them on a 351, and there was absolutely no way they were going to fit. The driver's side would have been fine with the steering mod, but the passenger side the primary tubes hit the shock tower. On a 5.0, you might have just enough room to make it work.

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