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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-28-2009, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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EGR Valve Removal

My brother has a 1995 Thunderbird LX V8 and I believe the EGR Valve is bad. The EGR seems to be placed in such a way that it looks like several things must be removed first to get to it. It there a simple way to remove the EGR without taking the upp half of the motor apart? The Chilton's manual doesn't seem to be much help as always, just wondered if any of you guys had any tricks or tips. Any help is much appreciated.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-28-2009, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackenziet View Post
My brother has a 1995 Thunderbird LX V8 and I believe the EGR Valve is bad. The EGR seems to be placed in such a way that it looks like several things must be removed first to get to it. It there a simple way to remove the EGR without taking the upp half of the motor apart? The Chilton's manual doesn't seem to be much help as always, just wondered if any of you guys had any tricks or tips. Any help is much appreciated.
I have the same issue with my 95. Its in a horrible spot. First of all, why are you implicating the EGR valve? It could be a:

-bad dpfe
-clogged EGR pipe
-(relatively) easy fix where you remove the elbow on the back of the intake and clean out the passageways.

If you do have an issue with the EGR valve or Tube, You have to remove the tube with the EGR valve. This is a real pain in the butt.

First the tube to manifold adapter nut has to be taken off, which requires either removal of the cat Y pipe or alternatively removing the A/C accumulator. That should give you enough room to get a 1 1/16" wrench in there. You should use a backup wrench on the adapter. I don't know if even a crowfoot could get in there, I believe something has to be removed.

The tube nut is probably welded on at this point, and you should hit it with a lot of heat before trying to get it off. Most likely the tube is going to be destroyed, but its only a 45$ part.

To get to the EGR, you want to remove the wiper cowl and plastic shrouds. Maybe disconnect the heater hoses from the engine (be careful with the core fittings, if you are rough you will destroy the core). You may want to cut the hoses and replace them, they are cheap.

You will remove the two EGR bolts blindly, since they are behind the intake. You may also want to remove the elbow, there are 4 bolts holding it in and its probably clogged up anyway by now, so even changing the EGR will still throw a code.

Finally, you may want to replace the DPFE, its about $65. They are pretty much on borrowed time by now, and its in a terrible spot.

Before you continue though, post the codes or issues you have with the EGR. You don't want to do anything more with the 95 EGR than you have to.

95 4.6L Rusty Survivor!
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 02:09 AM
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definitely make sure there's a problem before digging into that.


I haven't done anything with the EGR on my old 95

but on the 97's they are located much better, doesn't really help you i guess.

but definitely check your codes and whatnot to be sure what the problem is.

Finally Got the bird back together and running
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