How hard is it to remove the exhaust from the manifold? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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How hard is it to remove the exhaust from the manifold?

As I'm looking into replacing my cats, I'm trying to figure out the best way to do it.

I would like to know from real world experience how hard it is to remove the converter assembly from the exhaust manifold, from underneath the car.

I have magnaflow 94004 cats, and want to cut out my old ones and weld these in. I'd prefer not to use clamps.

Also I need to replace my donuts, how hard of a job is that with the exhaust dis-assembled?
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 10:09 PM
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Car on jackstands, as high as you can in the front.

Take off the two bolts on the connection just behind the tranny.

Take off the four bolts in the front at the manifolds.

Loosen the tranny crossmember.

When the tail of the tranny drops down, the front y-section of the exhaust will come right out.

You may have to beat on it to get it unbound; it's pretty tight.

Liberal application of PB blaster a few times the day before makes a huge difference.

You live in the great salt area of the world, so you may need a torch...

Bolt the crossmember back up; don't leave it hanging. The changed angle makes it slide right out and back in, tho.

Good luck.

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 10:17 PM
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I've been able to get the stock front half off without loosening the crossmember. I use the factory scissor jack between it and the 3rd cat and it pops right off, I cut about 1 1/2" off the hangers before I put it back as well to make life easier.

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-09-2009, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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ok I appreciate those answers, but what I'm really wondering is, How hard is it..... am I going to have to contort to get to the manifold bolts, or use any kind of strange angled tool or something??

am I going to be under the car yelling and swearing because it's impossible to move to get it out? I know how "easy" the FSM makes it sound.... it never seems to be that easy lol.

My car has been well taken care of, looks great underneath and isn't roptted or rusted out./

It's been krown'd every year since it's birth.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-09-2009, 01:44 PM
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I've never had any problems getting them off, A swivel socket and some long extensions help, especially on the driver side manifold where you loosen from the top (the stud is mounted to the exhaust flange instead of the manifolds like the other 3). The other bolts you have a pretty clear shot at them from the bottom.

-Matt
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-09-2009, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
I've never had any problems getting them off, A swivel socket and some long extensions help, especially on the driver side manifold where you loosen from the top (the stud is mounted to the exhaust flange instead of the manifolds like the other 3). The other bolts you have a pretty clear shot at them from the bottom.
Yeah, I agree.

Remember the pb blaster!

If you pop the crossmember, you don't have to struggle with it; it comes right out. I noticed by accident while pulling a transmission; Normally getting the front over the bolts is a B****; it hits the car body and binds. But it all lines up perfectly with the crossmember loose.

That has worked on both 96 Cougars and a JY wreck I took a transmission out of.

YMMV.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-09-2009, 09:54 PM
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Yea the only dings and scratches on my car that were MY fault were from struggling with that the first time I pulled it lol. That was my main reason I trimmed the hangers, I never had that binding issue again.

-Matt
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-10-2009, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
 
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My dad seems awfully set on the fact that it will be easier to just cut the old cats out and clamp the new ones in. He seems to think that without heating the stud bolts They are going to break and cause the world as we know it to come to an abrupt end.

I have nothing to really go on aside from what's told to me here, so what do I have to worry about as far as that goes? is PB blaster really going to be good enough to free the bolts so they don't break??

do I have much to worry about as far as alignment of welding the new cats in place of the old ones?

welding the new cats in is my preferred choice of installment. how close to the manifold should the cats be?

EDIT**

I just picked up a can of PB Blaster, When I get a chance, maybe today, I'll sneak under there and start spraying some bolts.

Last edited by BigJohnny; 10-10-2009 at 01:42 PM.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-10-2009, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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I got the car up on ramps and took a look to see what I'm dealing with.

IT would seem the bottom stud bolts are fairly easy to get to on both the passenger and drivers side, and the drivers side top stud bolt seems fairly easy to get to also. The passenger side top stud bolt however looks impossible to reach.

There is the EGR valve tube and countless other things totally blocking any tool from reaching that bolt.

What am I missing here?


seems like it might be a bit of a pain to weld the cats in also. I should mark off my cuts before I take the assembly out shouldn't I?

I'm not sure how to go about welding them on there, I don't just want to shove pipes inside of other pipes and introduce restrictions, but there are some interesting angles on those pipes.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-11-2009, 12:07 AM
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what kind of car is it and year? do you any air tools it would be a big help if you do i just did mines and it was pretty easy with the air tools

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-11-2009, 07:03 AM
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I use a 15mm ratcheting/bending end wrench. Available at any autozone made by duralast. Although I live in Vegas lol no rust.

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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-11-2009, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrz View Post
what kind of car is it and year? do you any air tools it would be a big help if you do i just did mines and it was pretty easy with the air tools





<---------

Yes I have air tools...What for? my goal is NOT to break bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
I use a 15mm ratcheting/bending end wrench. Available at any autozone made by duralast. Although I live in Vegas lol no rust.
I don't see how that type of wrench is going to fit into a space with no room.

How do I get the passenger side stud bolt loose from the manifold?? The O2 sensor is blocking it from the bottom, and EVERYTHING is blocking it from the top.

if it's like the drivers side, then it needs to be removed from the top, not the bottom of the car.
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-11-2009, 01:48 PM
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Just go under there and try, its tight but there is enough room for sockets and extensions there.

-Matt
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-11-2009, 01:48 PM
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You bend the end and slip it over the stud and twist. Best $15 wrench I ever bought.

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-11-2009, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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I'm still kind of lost here, do I have to remove that bolt from the top or bottom of the car?

I can't imagine any kind of wrench or socket fitting in from either side.

bend the end of a wrench? which wrench?
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-11-2009, 10:27 PM
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The bottom, the only nut you get from the top is the one on the driver side. I've used a regular deep socket with an extension on a swivel socket dozens of times on the stock setup. Go under the car and have a look for yourself, your making this much harder than it is.

-Matt
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 02:34 AM
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A foot long extension, deep socket, and a swivel. Stab the socket straight up between the body and the cat, and use your other hand to guide the socket onto the nut.
It's not that hard. You just have to... try.

Needs more stall.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
 
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does the O2 sensor have to be removed?? I would guess yes otherwise that bolt is inaccessible.

I have gone under the car and looked.....hence the questions.
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 08:25 AM
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That bolt isn't inaccesible on any of these cars that I have ever worked on. And, that is pretty much a whole lot.

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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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I can't even see the bolt with the O2 sensor in the way.

In any case, now that I know how, and that it can be done, My biggest issue I think is going to be sticking the 94004 cats in place of the OE cats, since they are different shapes and lengths.

I don't have any bending equipment, so I'm probably going to have to make a ton of smaller cuts and weld in my own bends or something..... either that or just replace the OE cats with straight pipes, and mount the Magnaflow's a little further down where the pipes are straight, from the output of the OE cats.

I'd like to keep them close to the manifolds though.
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 09:00 AM
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Not trying to be a ass but it sounds like maybe you should take it an exhaust shop. you really do not want to make a bunch of cuts and welds to make your bends...sounds like you would be better off letting the pros handle it.

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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maybe, but money is an issue, and I didn't mean to say that it's just gonna be hack job...... just haven't worked out in my head how I want to approach it.

probably easier to just cut the old cats out and put an elbow piece in there, and stick the new cats on the straight part of the pipe.
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 01:28 PM
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The only O2 sensor I had to remove while pulling exhaust is the back driver side on my bird, because otherwise it was hitting the transmission shift linkage and wouldn't come off. And when that came out, so did all of its threads.

And if money is an issue, then save the money until you can get it done right. Otherwise you'll probably end up having other issues besides money.

Needs more stall.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 04:50 PM
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If you are worried about breaking studs/bolts I would not undertake this project without a torch. The first time (to my knowledge) my exhaust was dropped, I had my car on a lift. I heated the flange and then climbed a ladder with an impact/extension/swivel socket in had to remove one of the fastners on the drivers side. That one was only accessible from the top. You have to remember that long extensions act like soft torsional springs. Without heat you will be twisting the extension a lot which will lead to the socket springing off. A 3/8" extension probably won't be beefy enough unless you have a torch to get things nice and loose.

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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oh dude, I'm not worried about the torch, thats easy, my biggest concern as far as a torch is "splash damage"

I don't think an oxy/acetylene is needed though. a small propane torch may work, if not, then bring out the big guns.

I just don't like getting things red hot as it changes the properties of the metal....makes it harder and more brittle.

I had this argument with my dad when he wanted to bust out the OA torch to loosen the LCA-to-spindle. I got the propane torch and heated it gently, boom it came right out, and no red hot metal.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 08:23 PM
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Cool, you shouldn't have any problems then. I always used an acetylene torch, but would turn it way down to get into tight areas. Good luck!

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 09:39 PM
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I'd never use a torch on a suspension component that I was not replacing, personally.

If it gets red hot, it's not the same as it started.

But the exhaust is open game; It's tough enough to get bolts off the manifold here, I can imagine up in the GWN...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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I'd never use a torch on a suspension component that I was not replacing, personally.

If it gets red hot, it's not the same as it started.

But the exhaust is open game; It's tough enough to get bolts off the manifold here, I can imagine up in the GWN...
yeah I agree, I was replacing my LCA, so no worries aboot that.

This car has been pretty well taken care of, it doesn't look like the bolts are rusted too badly, and I have sprayed them with Blaster PB(yes that's the actual name) the other day so they have some soak time. I might give them another shot or two before I get to actually removing the assembly.

I'm curious aboot weather or not some heat-proofing material would be a good idea above the cats, to shield the car from the heat.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2009, 09:58 PM
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If your doing this on jackstands one easy way once you remove the rear 02s and manifold nuts/studs is to lay under the exhaust facing up with your head towards the front of the car. Use your hands to guide each cat or flange and use your foot to push up on the rear cat. Unless your a midget then disregard

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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-13-2009, 04:47 PM
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I'm sure it's implied that when doing stuff under a car you're making sure you're doing all this safely....but it's worth however many reminders it takes.


And that PB Blaster is real good stuff to have handy.

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