Dropping transmission crossmember to remove Y pipe? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Dropping transmission crossmember to remove Y pipe?

I've read that it can be loosened to remove the Y pipe, but I'm not having any luck doing it that way.

BTW, this is for the 96 4.6L Tbird.

I'm contemplating removing the transmission crossmember, but don't want to have the trans/engine hanging back too far doing damage to God-knows-what.

Rusted to heck, have all the bolts removed, but can't get it to slide back to come off. There are two prongs that insert into holes, seem to be 'binding' in there.

The cats are plugged, car wouldn't start until I dropped the exhaust, enough air leaked past the flanges to allow it to run. But now I'm trying to remove the Y completely.

Considering how I'm going to have to replace the cats anyways - if worse comes to worse - should I just hacksaw the Y into pieces underneath the car?

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 12:08 PM
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why dont you just remove the crossmember and support the trans with a jack or a block of wood? im sure you wont harm anything

cant have the signature i want...
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 08:07 PM
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The mounts for the y-pipe are rubber in the holes. Did you try spraying the heck out of those hangers with lube? The first time I dropped mine, it was a pain to remove. Just a thought.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I sprayed it with a lube, but was difficult to get access to where it needed to get in - at the front of the holes.

No worries, it hit me on the way home tonight - use the 'come-along' to yank the thing out. Hook one end on the back swaybar, the other end on the Y - it should pop out easily. There's very little room under the car to use muscles to force it out, wiggling the heck out of it didn't help.

I turned the bolt on one side of the tranny mount too far, it let go and fell down a bit. The other side is now freely spinning, won't tighten or loosen.

What a pos this thing is, what have I got myself into?

IF I ever buy another MN12/FN10 - it'll be from a southern state where rust isn't an issue.

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
1995 Mercury Cougar XR7, rust free Florida car - future 5.0 project
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 10:05 PM
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This may be a dumb question but, did you remove the two rear O2 sensors or just unplug them? When I removed the exhause from mine, the O2 sensor on the drivers side hit the trans and wouldn't let the Y come back. After that, the Y came right off with the x-member just lowered about an inch. Mine is a v6 though, the sensor may be in a different position.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-13-2009, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, no dumb questions on this site. Except from me!

I didn't remove the O2's, they didn't seem to be in the way.

So, the come-along worked! Have the Y out and looked into the cats.

The primary's look OK from the outside, wonder if the 3rd cat is bunged up?

Car runs like a champ now, but it's loud as heck and my neighbors are getting irritated . At least I know that it was the cat system that was preventing it from running.

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
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