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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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hollow out catalytic converters?

i got a code pretty much saying i have stuffed up cats. could i just hollow them out? is it damaging to do so?would it work better or worse? my state doesnt have emission test.

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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 11:34 AM
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My state does , Its by county

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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 11:53 AM
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lozer, where are you in NC? Some counties are safety only some have emission testing requirements.

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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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im in pasqoutank county, near the obx.

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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lozer81 View Post
im in pasqoutank county, near the obx.
Here's your answer:

http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/vehicle_ser...uirements.html

I don't see Pasqoutank county listed, so you're safety only. You could hollow them out. I wouldn't take them off completely just in case someone looks for them.

I'm pretty sure this is the case for you. RobertP could say for certain. You might want to send him a PM to confirm.

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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 01:23 PM
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All emissions rules and possible MIL codes aside, it's better to simply remove the cat and replace it with a straight pipe than it is to hollow one out. The hollow chamber you'd create by knocking out the money parts would kill the exhaust velocity.

Now, if you need to keep the converter under there for "looks only" visual inspections, take it down and put an appropriate sized straight pipe through it. Now it's a straight pipe that looks like a cat, keeps the exhaust velocity up, and doesn't sound like poop.

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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 02:09 PM
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take them off..I was running my car on 3 fouled sparkplugs and i actually blewup one catconverter.And since it blew up the car runs smoother than it ever has.
Did you remove or replace the cat that blew up?

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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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the code i got was p0420 catalyst system below efficiency threshold (bank 1 ), could that just be a bad 02 sensor? also got p1443.

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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 02:49 PM
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It could also be a clogged ERG.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 02:50 PM
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P1443 is the evap purge flow. Search for it on here and you'll get pages of how-to replacements w/pics

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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 94 Thunderbird XX View Post
All emissions rules and possible MIL codes aside, it's better to simply remove the cat and replace it with a straight pipe than it is to hollow one out. The hollow chamber you'd create by knocking out the money parts would kill the exhaust velocity.
Or you could do it the correct way and replace the cat............

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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 02:28 AM
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I got the same codes over the summer , the cats are shot , i went to three shops each said the same thing . Problem is my car is starting to smoke really bad when im sitting in traffic ,I think my valves stem seals are done I dunno.It only smokes when ive been sitting at idle for a lil bit but once ive drive a lil while it goes away .

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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 06:50 AM
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The P0420 code means your o2 sensor data for bank one is showing the converter isnt doing its job as well as it should be. This could be from bad o2s on that bank, an exhaust leak before the converter, or a bad converter. If you gut that converter, that same code will still be around. You can try to diagnose it or just put on some MIL eliminators.

I built some mil eliminators with instructions found online years ago using stuff from radio shack. We put them on my wifes 97 GT and about once every 6 months I would have to clear out the catalyst efficiency code, so thats not too bad.

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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
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The P0420 code means your o2 sensor data for bank one is showing the converter isnt doing its job as well as it should be. This could be from bad o2s on that bank, an exhaust leak before the converter, or a bad converter. If you gut that converter, that same code will still be around. You can try to diagnose it or just put on some MIL eliminators.

I built some mil eliminators with instructions found online years ago using stuff from radio shack. We put them on my wifes 97 GT and about once every 6 months I would have to clear out the catalyst efficiency code, so thats not too bad.
Did your rear O2 MIL eliminators look like this, Rob?

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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 10:35 AM
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Did your rear O2 MIL eliminators look like this, Rob?
I made some...but used a circuit board with screw terminals..

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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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okay,one quick question, does the converters in our cars have platinum in them? if im going to replace them with a "test pipe" then i might as well get some cash, someone told me that fords eliminated the use of platinum in the converters and use something else.

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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 12:47 PM
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Converters still have platinum in them AFAIK, thats why people were stealing them a couple of years ago.

Netkeym, Those look awesome! Can you give me some info on those? I used circuit boards and soldered the o2 wires directly to the board. If I ever have to make some of these again...I think I will do it your way. The boards were kinda bulky and just wrapped in electrical tape.

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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 06:23 PM
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okay,one quick question, does the converters in our cars have platinum in them? if im going to replace them with a "test pipe" then i might as well get some cash, someone told me that fords eliminated the use of platinum in the converters and use something else.
Quote:
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Converters still have platinum in them AFAIK, thats why people were stealing them a couple of years ago.

...
If you guys are interested see this thread for more info on stolen cats. Thre are more precious metals in cats than just platinum.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=109461

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Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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hey trunk monkey, how much do you think our converters are worth in scrap? i heard ours are mostly rhodium than platinum,i would guess like 20 bucks seeing how ive seen new ones for sale at 50.

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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 07:11 PM
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Yea, probably $20 or so each. I think the prices of those precious metals have dropped since 2009 when the converters were being stolen. I really can't say for certain; you're going to have to check around where you live. Just make a few phone calls to the local scrap yards. And may be a muffler shop or two.

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Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob View Post
Converters still have platinum in them AFAIK, thats why people were stealing them a couple of years ago.

Netkeym, Those look awesome! Can you give me some info on those? I used circuit boards and soldered the o2 wires directly to the board. If I ever have to make some of these again...I think I will do it your way. The boards were kinda bulky and just wrapped in electrical tape.
Thank you! Here is the info, the is NOT my circuit so I do wish to give credit to C. Knight:


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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 10:38 PM
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Now that is awesome. This is without a doubt the cleanest, most simple way to make MIL eliminators. You are the man for posting this here.

-Rob
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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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looks like im just going to buy new cats, i cant even find a "test pipe" cheap anywhere, i heard that they've outlawed them, ive found some but they were 90 bucks a piece.

apparently the law is crackin down hard on that sort of thing anyways.

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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 07:39 PM
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When you said test pipe, I thought you meant welding in a straight piece of pipe.

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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 08:22 PM
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When you said test pipe, I thought you meant welding in a straight piece of pipe.
i have done that countless times....i then welded the cat shield around it, to make it look like a cat.

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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 12:24 AM
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i have done that countless times....i then welded the cat shield around it, to make it look like a cat.
lol
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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 06:01 AM
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Those caps are 10x bigger than the ones in my set; my set used .1uF caps.

I'd use RTV instead of heatshrink; cast it into something.

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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 08:45 PM
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I'd use RTV instead of heatshrink; cast it into something.
Epoxy comes to my mind.

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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 11:04 AM
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Epoxy comes to my mind.
Epoxy is hard to remove if something goes wrong; other than that, it works great.

Make sure the wires have some s-bends inside the epoxy/rtv so that water won't wick up the leads.

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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 05:28 PM
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Epoxy is hard to remove if something goes wrong; other than that, it works great.

Make sure the wires have some s-bends inside the epoxy/rtv so that water won't wick up the leads.
Ah, now I remember what I used to use on stuff like this. Hot glue! It seals up non-moving electronic stuff like a breeze, and can actually be removed if needed.

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