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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust Help

I just had the 2 cats in the front hollowed out, but left the middle cat intact. I've now tripped 2 codes - P0155 and P1151. Is it normal to trip the O2 sensor codes now that the insides of the front 2 cats are missing? What effect will this have on my car, and should I have had the middle cat hollowed out as well?
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 03:50 PM
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I just had the 2 cats in the front hollowed out, but left the middle cat intact. I've now tripped 2 codes - P0155 and P1151. Is it normal to trip the O2 sensor codes now that the insides of the front 2 cats are missing? What effect will this have on my car, and should I have had the middle cat hollowed out as well?
Yes, since there's no conditioning to the exhaust before the downstream O2 sensors.

And, you're not getting as good a flow as if the cats were working (!!) due to, well, read this page, especially the section on hollowing out cats: http://www.isuzuperformance.com/isup...h/exhaust.html

There are MIL eliminators that you can make and/or buy. I'd also either put in a pair of test pipes, or a pair of high flow cats, plus a "Y" adapter.

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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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So I did nothing but cause myself even more headaches, or am I fine driving like this?
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 04:15 PM
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Well you created a significant amount of turbulence in hollowing them out hurting performance and now have a CEL. So yeah.

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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so i should of had strait pipe put in place instead of an open hollow case. When i looked at the honeycomb it looked burnt and some parts somewhat warped and starting to melt. I dont have the money to replace the cats so im kinda stuck.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Will this **** up my engine in the long run?
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 10:08 PM
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Put in straight pipe and run mil eliminators

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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 10:35 PM
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Will this **** up my engine in the long run?
I think not. I'm running hollowd out cats with the 3rd cat replaced by a y-pipe. This was done 4 years ago and I have no problems. Yeah, I did have a CEL but a tune removed that. If there is an effect on performance I haven't seen it. I still get good mileage despite having not replaced the upstream o2 sensors yet.

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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Forgive me for sounding ignorant, but what are mil eliminators?
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 11:45 PM
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they are a rear o2 sensor emulator they trick the computer into thinking that they cats are working properly.

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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 12:10 AM
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there is a cheaper way to get rid of the check engine light. go to your local parts store and buy 2 18mm spark plug non fouler's. then all you have to do is drill them out so that your O2 sensor fits in them and then install them with your O2 sensors (one on each side of the rear O2s). doing that will put your O2 sensors out far enough to not through your CEL. also I have ran my car now for a year with all 3 of my cats hollowed out with no problems but the noise that you get from the turbulence in the exhaust. I have a tune on my car to eliminate my CEL but I have done the trick with the spark plug non fouler's to a few cars that I have worked on.

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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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I will keep that in mind thanks.

Holy ****. I have no clue why the car didn't run like this on the way home from the shop, but I just got done taking the car for a drive and its like I'm pulling a ships anchor behind me. Total loss of all power feeling as if it fell flat on It's face. Please tell me if I had the middle cat replaced with a Y would it fix this awful problem and return my car to normal aside from the loud exhaust noise?
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 09:28 AM
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Have you done general maintence ie. fuel filter, tune up, clean maf?

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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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yes I have, when I first bought the car 3 months ago. This all started after I hollowed out the cats, so I'm assuming the extra back pressure is whats causing my car to stumble the whole way home this morning. It doesn't help that the middle cat is still intact and guessing that isn't helping the extra back pressure any either.
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 11:21 AM
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FYI, when I first got my '95 I had the same issue and I gutted the cats but that didn't fix it. It ended up being a bad coil pack.

-Randy-
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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I have a multimeter. Is there a way to check the coil packs?
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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anyone? I plan on having a Y pipe replace the middle cat thats still intact.... I dont see why the coilpack would just suddenly go out after i hollow out the a front cats and all this talk about back pressure..... Will the Y pipe fix the back presure problem yes or no?
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 05:10 PM
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when you remove the cats your back pressure goes down not up. as for the car falling on its face, if you have the car in park and hit the gas does it stall out at any RPM. only reason I ask is I gutted my cats because of 2 bad MAF sensors. the car would not go over 3k RPM even in park, so that will give you something else to look into.

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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 06:04 PM
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I have a multimeter. Is there a way to check the coil packs?
First, isolate the coil pack by disconnecting all the leads. Set the ohmmeter in the low range, and recalibrate if necessary. Connect the ohmmeter leads across the ignition coil primary terminals, and compare the primary resistance reading to specifications (typically less than 2 ohms). Then connect the ohmmeter leads across the coil secondary terminals and compare the secondary resistance reading to specifications (typically 6,000-30,000 ohms). If readings are outside the specified range, the coil is defective and needs to be replaced.

If measuring the secondary resistance of a DIS coil is difficult because of the coils location, try removing the wires from the spark plugs and measure secondary resistance through the plug wires rather than at the secondary terminals on the coils. Just remember to add in a maximum of 8,000 ohms of resistance per foot for the plug wires.

Here is a little trick that will literally show you if a DIS module and its crankshaft sensor circuit are working: connect a halogen headlamp to the spade terminals that mate the DIS module to the coils. A headlamp is recommended here because it puts more of a load on the module than a test lamp. If the headlamp flashes when the engine is cranked, the DIS module and crankshaft position sensor circuit are functioning. Therefore, the problem is in the coils.

If the headlamp does not flash, or there is no voltage to the module or coil pack when the engine is cranked, the problem is most likely in the crankshaft sensor circuit. On most vehicles, a bad crank position sensor will usually set a fault code, so use a scan tool to check for a code. Or, check the crank sensor itself.

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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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On start up the engine vibrates now it doesn't run as smooth. The idle in park won't go down until I give it a few good revs then it sits below a grand. When I drive a lot of petal gets me nowhere fast almost like something is holding my car back.. it almost feels there's pressure somewhere like its trying to push air through the system but its choking.... I just don't know how to describe it . My car ran smooth before with some hesitation, but now after the front two cats were hollowed out it runs like ass and I feel heat coming from underneath my car. After driving about 10-11 miles the temp was around 220 for a brand new 180 thermostat. It feels like it wants to stall while I'm driving. She also shakes a bit after 50 mph.... but I need to get it fixed before I go to work tomorrow night.

Keep in mind though the material inside the front two cats were kinda burnt and in some parts starting to melt. Either way I would have come to this particular problem sooner or later.

If it would be best to replace the middle cat with a Y pipe, or some other solution perhaps I'm more than willing to listen provided you are patient enough to deal with questions.

My scanner only gives me a P0155 code for O2 sensor.

Last edited by zigzag; 03-06-2011 at 09:49 PM.
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 12:05 AM
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I'm rather surprised that you were able to hollow out the front cats with the 3rd one still in place. The issue being that pieces of the cats could have easily gotten lodged into the 3rd cat. I guess the best thing to do next will be to replace that last cat with a y-pipe. Until you get some high flow cats or replace the cats with strait pipe you're going to feel that heat coming from under the car. Now after you get that 3rd cat taken care of if you still have problems then we can try to figure it out.

-Randy-
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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The guy cut from the underside and knocked everything out, then welded the casing of the cat back together. It looks tacky from underneath, but no exhaust leaks.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 07:43 AM
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He cut the exhaust and pulled it down? Did you see inside after it was hollowed out? Ok new problems, it sounds like your exhaust is plugged. Pics of the work please

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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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no he didn't pull anything down.. he cut through the bottom of the cat pulled it apart hollowed it out, and yes i saw the cats they were empty after, then squeezed it together and welded it shut. ill get pics in a few but for now ive got to go back to him and get this **** straitened out.
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 10:37 AM
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FWIW, I replaced the front two cats on my Bird with brand new ones and drilled the third one full of holes (through the rear exhaust hole). It's been running like that for almost 3 years without issue.

When was the last time you changed your plugs and plug wires? Although, like others here have already suggested, since the last thing you touched was the exhaust, I'd look there first for problems.

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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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I replaced plugs wires thermostat fuel filter air filter and cleaned the maf three months ago when I bought the car. Everything ran fine with some hesitation before messing the cats. After hollowing out the two cats is when I started all my problems. But the middle cat is going to be replaced with a Y pipe in about an hour so I'll let you guys know whats up.

----------------------------------------
Didn't want to double post.

I had the cat replaced with a Y pipe, and they double checked for exhaust leaks. She runs surprisingly quiet now despite having no cats. When I checked the honeycomb of the cat it was burnt and in some places starting to melt. Talk about my luck..... are we sure running with no cats won't mess with the engine >.< I Don't want to start having to tear into them.

The shaking is gone and things are running smooth. Temp gauge reads in the a little before the middle while driving and a little after the middle if I'm sitting at a red light.

Now if the cats were damaged then something would have had to of damaged it right? A misfire, bad egr valve.... could be a number of things >.<

Last edited by zigzag; 03-07-2011 at 02:41 PM.
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Shes starting to hesitate again >.< If I get up and go its like she buckles under load.. then sprints, and sometimes won't sprint. It's weird and hard to explain.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 08:48 AM
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As pointed out before many people have ran hollowed out converters for years, myself included. General maintence done, I still think its something to do with the exhaust. This is a shop doing the exhaust what do they have to say? Again your positive the cats are clear?

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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I am 100% sure. I even looked myself. I now have codes

P0155 - O2 sensor heater circut malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)
P1151 - HO2S bank 2 sen 1 insuff. switching lean mean
P1152 - HO2S bank 2 sen 1 insuff. switching rich mean
P1443 - EVAP emission control system cntrl valve malf <---- I replaced the purge valve.. this was the only code before hollowing out the cats.

But if the cats were melted then something would have had to of caused it. I still need to check the coil packs.
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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I've checked coil packs before with the paper clips in the terminals underneath the coil pack, But each coil pack only had 2 terminals (had an oldsmobile ciera with 3 separate coil packs for the 3.3 V6). So my question is.. are there specific terminals that have to be check? For example: terminal 2 connecting with an opposite on the same coil pack.. or does it matter which two terminals I check? Aslo what are the specifications for my cars coil packs as far as ohms goes?

I'm not the worlds greatest mechanic, but I'm really trying to learn.
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