Removing manifolds/fixing broken studs? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Removing manifolds/fixing broken studs?

The engine I'm working with is out of the car so space isn't an issue right now

My manifolds are rusty, how would I remove them from the heads without damaging anything?

Secondly the studs that bolt the cat back system on to the manifolds are stripped and 2 are broken. What are my options here for fixing it so I can attach new exhaust to the flanges/manifolds?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 03:20 PM
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Spray them with PB blaster every few hours for a couple days. If that doesn't work, break out a torch and heat them up.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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I've been hitting them periodically with PB since last summer.

Do they bolt into the heads or do the heads have studs?

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 04:02 PM
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I hit mine with a half inch impact on two different motors. No problems thus far.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 04:08 PM
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I've never had issues with the manifold to head bolts, they're all rusty on the outside.

The manifold to flange studs on the other hand usually don't budge no matter how hard you try, torch and a pipe wrench are about all there is to thread them out, otherwise you'll have to drill.

-Matt
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Ya the manifold to flange studs are pooched. Are there options for fixingthose that doesn't involve new manifolds or headers. ?

I need to be able to put pipes on the engine to run the exhaust through the garage door at the neighbors

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 04:19 PM
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Like I said, Use a pipe wrench on the stud and heat the flange with a torch, that's about the only way you'll get them threaded out.

You can drill them completely out as well, I set it up for SS bolts from Ace


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 05:13 PM
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I busted them off last fall when I did the exhaust. I didn't feel like screwing around with trying to thread out what was left, so I just drilled it out.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 07:13 PM
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Best choice. My old manifolds had a busted stud I had threaded a nut onto. It put the flange at an angle and pushed the pipe off center leading to a very noticeable leak.

-Matt
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 08:17 PM
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I cut mine flush with the manifold and took them to a machine shop.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996Project-bird View Post
I cut mine flush with the manifold and took them to a machine shop.
Sometimes it's best to leave it to the pros and their drill presses. I have had lots of good luck drilling, but then again I have had enough bad luck too. On non-seized fasteners, a LH drill bit is your friend.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 01:31 PM
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Thread revival, anyone try scps stud replacement kit? I'm curious as to how one would take the plce of the odd stud we have on the drivers side that goes in the opposite direction.



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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 05:37 PM
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The ones I broke off came out with a punch and hammer, I'm pretty sure.

They had splines at the top, like a wheel stud, iirc.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 07:40 PM
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I have successfully used Walkers flange repair kits on Rangers and Crown Vics. its basically a split flange that goes around the old flange but mounts vertically in relation to the old one. Works great for those 20 year old midwest cars with factory exhaust thats never been apart. by that time the two flanges and studs had basically rustified together and were not reusable.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-18-2015, 12:45 AM
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-18-2015, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Cat
Thread revival, anyone try scps stud replacement kit?
No..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Cat
I'm curious as to how one would take the plce of the odd stud we have on the drivers side that goes in the opposite direction.
The last time the exhaust came down on my car I realized just how bad the studs were on my exhaust manifold collector flanges..So I replaced all 4 of them..

I used an Oxy Acetylene Torch with a heating tip to get the studs cherry red..Then I used a Stud Extractor to remove the old studs from the collector flange..
Stud Extractor.JPG

You have to move quickly while the studs are still cherry red..Otherwise you'll just bend, and break the studs off in the collector flange..Creating more work..

After I successfully removed all the studs I ran a 7/16-14 Tap through each hole..Then I used a piece of 7/16-14 threaded rod to replace the studs with..

By simply marring one end of the threaded rod that will prevent it from backing out once you start tightening the nut on the other end..

If possible use copper nuts here as they don't seize up or rust like steel does..





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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 03:47 PM
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I do have a question though what are the manifold bolt size the ones holding them on the head? I still have to replace my egr tube.

I don't want to brake them off in the head when I try to take the tube off.

I got the cat y off of them using a wire brush and pb blaster.

what I did was hit it with pb blaster scrub like heck and hit it again with pb blaster I did that like four or five times to work off the rust off of the threads and the nuts.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 08:09 PM
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Exhaust Manifold Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95mercxr7
What are the manifold bolt size the ones holding them on the head?.
M8x1.25x43..They are roughly 1.69" long..So if you find some M8x1.25x45 bolts you should be good..

I don't know how deep your heads are tapped for the exhaust manifold bolts..So just to play it safe use washers if you can't find the right length..

The last thing you want is to bottom out the bolts in the head, and break one off..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95mercxr7
I got the cat y off of them using a wire brush and pb blaster.

what I did was hit it with pb blaster scrub like heck and hit it again with pb blaster I did that like four or five times to work off the rust off of the threads and the nuts.
That doesn't usually work on Northern cars that have seen salty roads..Consider yourself fortunate, and maybe the rest of the car will come apart as easy..






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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 12:23 AM
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Another DIY penetrant I've heard of is ATF + Acetone in 50/50 mix.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...owdown.350800/

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 09:58 AM
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A real good one is CRC Freeze off, can get it at Autozone. You spray it for 10 seconds, and the temp drops to like 10 below, which is supposed to flake the rust off.

Works pretty well. There is a video online.

Al

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