Pace setter headers 96-98 cobra - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Pace setter headers 96-98 cobra

I've now seen two different people modify two different sets of Mac headers. 1 on a thunderbird with headers for a gt and 1 on a mark viii with headers for a cobra. From what I've read macs and bbk's fit the passenger side with little or no modifications, does anyone think that the pace setters would be any different? This is a mod months in the making I'm still on the fence. I found a set of new pace setters long tubes for the 96-98 cobra for $275 shipped. I'm just looking for a little feed back, should I buy those? Should I wait for a set of used Mac's? Or should I just bite the bullet and save up for a set of kooks. I know if I don't go with kooks that I'll need to modify at least 1-3 tubes on the drivers side header to clear the steering shaft or relocate the steering shaft, or both. Regardless I'm not in the market for coated headers because my buddy at my local jethot owes me a big favor whether I go with kooks or not. My ex boss has a welder and a heap of j bends since he does a little bit of exhaust work on the side.

Just looking for some feed back.

Thanks,
Chris

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-14-2011, 08:58 PM
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I have been looking into this too. I am looking at the stainless sets that are under 200 with 3" collectors. All of the ones I have seen appear to be the same shape from all of the different pix (more than half on e-bay mind you) I have seen.

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Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 01:48 PM
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Hopefully someone chimes in on this, I saw the same pacesetters and the price is right!

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 03:18 PM
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Chris would you DD the car with long tubes? Btw I have heard nothing but poor things about MAC headers. I have heardn't one thing about pace setters.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 08:14 PM
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I looked at a set of, I think, BBK headers for a Cobra I found local for MadMikeyL. Yes the pass side looked like it would work, but the drivers side was way wrong. It could have been done yes, but it would have taken alot of work. The O2 sensor placement was off, the EGR tube was in the way and if memory serves me correctly, it would have taken reworking of 3 tubes. While they were a decent set of headers and the price was good, I felt the work required to get them to work wasn't worth it. That said I have a Cobra engine in my garage right now I'm rebuilding for a friend, and he had to buy new headers for it. I will try to get my hands on them and see what they are and what they look like for our application.

As far as the MAC headers goes, yes I have also heard a whole lot of bad about them. Mostly they warp with the heat and once you remove them they are way out of shape. That was the case with the used set I bought. But for the adventurous out there, don't let that deter you, search that out. The Mustang crowd feels they are not good, because of the warping issue, and from what I have seen they unload them pretty quick and for dirt cheap. This is a good thing for those of us that are very cheap, like me. I bought mine and they were way way out of shape, but a spare set of heads I had laying around got clamped to the bench, and I bolted the headers to the heads one tube at a time with a pry bar, a lot of cussing, and a lot of beer. After that, a few passes with a rose bud torch to reset the new shape and they were just fine. Granted it took some effort, putting them on and taking them off a few times to get them into the right position and stay there, but a few hours working in the garage is better to me than the $700 or so it would cost for the Kooks. If you dont feel that the extra work is worth the effort, then by all means the Kooks are a great option, but for me, I prefer cheap and extra work to easy and expensive.

Aside from the warping out of shape issue, and the couple of hours it takes to move the 1 tube in the way of the steering shaft, I have absolutely zero gripes about the MAC headers. They seem like a great product to me. I have a fair amount of mileage on the car now after the header install and first things first, they do not drag or scrape anything anywhere. That to me is a good thing. I did have to make a little floor pan clearence on the driver side, but that was easy enough. With the headers bolted to the engine, and the K member bolted to the car, I just put a floor jack under the header and jacked it into the floor pan. Once it hit the floor pan, I gave it a couple more pumps, it bent the floor pan out of the way whyere it was going to hit, and the spring in the metal dropped it back down out of the way of the floor pan when I removed the jack. Another thing to keep in mind, is the engine oil dip tube. For whatever reason, I couldn't get my T-Bird tube to work, but a Mustang one I had laying around worked perfectly. If you go to a Mustang header, I believe you will have to change that dip tube. Aside from that, no issues at all, and they sound great.

I've said it before, and I will say it again. Anyone that is serious about getting and modifying a set for their car, get in touch with me and I will help in whatever way I can, no questions asked. I stumbled on a great deal, but regardless of that, I have a grand total of $250 in my headers with $100 worth of gaskets and bolts. Well worth the effort for that return in my book.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 09:31 AM
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Well I got the new headers for the Cobra motor I'm building yesterday. They are some chrome plated MAC headers the guy paid around $375 for. The Pace setter headers look to be the same design. And from what I can see on the MAC's I have in my garage, should be similar mods to get them to work as what I had to do to my 2v headers. Looks like passenger side would fit no issues, and the driver side at a minimum 1 tube will have to move, probably 2. Can't tell for sure until they get on a car and tried to fit them in. But either way, I wouldn't be scared to do even if it had to have 2 tubes reworked. It would be a heck of alot easier than either the BBK's I looked at last year, or the equal length BBK's that came off this Cobra I'm working on. And if they can be had for $275, thats a heck of a deal. Factor around $100 for the mods if you do it yourself and pay someone else to weld, less than that for just material and you'd be all set.

Ban low performance driver's, not high performance cars.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 12:44 AM
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If you are going to sell the 2v headers, PM me.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 07:49 PM
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The motor I'm building is for a friends of mine's Cobra, and the headers are for that car. I have zero plans or desires to take my car to a 4v, so I won't be selling the headers seperately. However if you want to buy the headers, they are for sale...$8,000. But they come with a supercharged 5-speed car, and I won't seperate, lol.

Ban low performance driver's, not high performance cars.

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