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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Making 2V Longtubes

here is my progress so far into making my 1st set of longtubes for a 4.6 MN12.































stay tuned!!!!
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 12:16 AM
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Lookin good!

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 01:38 AM
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 08:08 AM
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a piece of art......nice

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 08:39 AM
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Now those are purrrdy! No floor pan bashing?

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 11:38 AM
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Q: Don't you need each of the longtubes to be of the same length? How do you control for this or is it something that's not necessary...

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Q: Don't you need each of the longtubes to be of the same length? How do you control for this or is it something that's not necessary...
The closer the tubes are to the exact same length, the better the scavenging effect will be, and the more performance you will get out of it. Even most of the off the shelf long-tubes don't have exactly the same length tubes though, just because they have to work within the space they have in the vehicle, just like guitar maestro is doing. Regardless though, even if one or 2 tubes are a couple inches longer, you will still get much more gain from long-tubes than shorties or mid-lengths.

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Now those are purrrdy! No floor pan bashing?
I thought I would have when I was messin' with these last year. Turns out, they need to be aligned by attaching the transmission and bolting it in place; otherwise you can't be sure if everything is lined up the way it should.

plenty of clearance, even with 3" collectors



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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 10:32 PM
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WOW! Can't wait to see the finished product. Always impressive when someone fabs up headers.
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 11:12 PM
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That is A LOT of custom work and they look great, GM!

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-22-2012, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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As always, Murphy shows up. Here you can see how the #7 shifted a bit (probably due to welding heat/metal contraction) right where it needed to be welded. Better now than later find that the flange no longer meets up with the exhaust port. Oh well, just a tad more and almost there.

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 03:54 AM
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Looking good Oscar!

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 09:02 AM
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Looking good Oscar!

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I agree, that works like GREAT!

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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The tubes shifted a tad towards the head, with too much of a gap to fill in since the tubes are only 16ga (0.050") thick. This is the #8 primary:



The #7 that snakes in between two other tubes was easily fixable; I just sliced the previous weld and added a short section to bring the final weld joint back into alignment. The #8 was trickier, because there was no such previous weld joint that I could easily add onto to bring that misalignment back in place. So what I noticed was this (mocked up with two other pipes):




I had two tubes with non-coinciding centerlines. If I could make a small "slanted" tube to take up the misalignment where that red parallelogram is drawn, but not so slanted that it makes for a rough transition, everything would be nice and dandy. So I went to work. With math.

Since the tube centerlines were parallel and non-skew, all I needed was the angle from the vertical, shown in purple here:



Since those blue dashed lines are essentially parallel, if I know the purple angle inside the green triangle, I automatically know the other purple angle that slants from the vertical so I can set up my metal chop saw right away without guessing.

Here you can see the approx measurements. The centerlines were off about a tenth of an inch, and I wanted to make the new slant approx. 0.42". This was as far as I could go because then the tube curves upward, so this is as smooth as a transition that I could afford. Here you can see where I easily figured out the amount I needed to slant cut some pipe:



So 13° later, I had this piece. No guesswork, no need for eyeballing, etc.



Lo' and behold, it fits darn near almost perfectly.



Prepped for final welding:




Final fitup:




Dinner calls now, so I'll stop here for today. Final pics coming soon.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 08:18 PM
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 10:06 PM
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I am amazed by the creativity in this project. I looked under the hood and had trouble visualizing where all of that tubing would go. Especially on the steering side. Are you removing/ rerouting anything in the car? Warren
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Are you removing/ rerouting anything in the car? Warren
Do you mean solely with respect to the installation of these headers?
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-24-2012, 01:34 AM
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How much of a performance increase would this provide over stock?
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-24-2012, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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How much of a performance increase would this provide over stock?
Plenty.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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That one was a bi*** to weld "on location":



the last weld that needed to get done. How the hell am I supposed to weld the backside with all the other tubes?




tack welded at the top and bottom, then cut out a little "window"



Cut a one-piece cover from another pipe that will repair the window that was cut out



welded the inside back arc, and ground it down smooth enough that it wouldn't hinder the exhaust flow



views of the cover welded on





Done and ready to be sandblasted and painted tomorrow.
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 10:40 PM
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Very ingenious! Necessity is the mother of invention (so I've heard).

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 10:42 PM
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Yeah ok, I'm jealous lol

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah ok, I'm jealous lol
Oh, I know. I mean seriously, how much more kick-a** can my whole-car build get?
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-28-2012, 03:07 AM
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Oh, I know. I mean seriously, how much more kick-a** can my whole-car build get?
I'm sure we'll find out!

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-28-2012, 03:32 AM
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Oh, I know. I mean seriously, how much more kick-a** can my whole-car build get?
If it was in my car's body, pretty damn kick ass

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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 07:25 PM
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So, when ya gonna start mass producing those!?
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Never!!!!! Lol j/k

I have one more set identical to these with 3" collectors that I'll have available sometime in the future as soon as I finish my car. The current MAC longtube headers are not acceptable for modding due to them being only available in chrome "coated" and ceramic coated; I would really need either mild steel or 304 stainless steel with no coatings that could affect the welds. Pypes makes longtubes in 304 SS that look like they could work for modding, but I ain't got $420 to throw away should they not work. Feel free to send me a set and I'll check it out for you. As far as mass producing, well lets just say that I doubt I would ever sell even 10 sets.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 09:16 PM
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I feel ya there. Thats alot of work! I just drove 3 hours to find out the Bird I was planning on buying had a spun bearing in it. Back to the pain staking task of trying to figure out what is wrong with this DOHC.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 11:10 PM
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Wow, Nice job on fabbing your own headers. Truely 'built, not bought'....

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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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should have ordered O2 bungs before hand. I had a feeling the stock O2 locations wouldn't work with the auto transmission.

Original hole patched up and new hole (7/8") cut:



new O2 bung welded in the proper location:





Just gotta do the other one tomorrow, and finally I can paint them after sandblasting them one last time.
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