Can I drop the exhaust under the gas tank? - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Can I drop the exhaust under the gas tank?

I have an X-pipe and 10 feet of exhaust pipe. I'm not sure if it would be safe to drop the exhaust under the gas tank for ease. I KNOW the easiest way isn't always the best way. But it would be less obstructive bends in the pipe, and it would conserve pipe as well. There would still be thermal guard between the exhaust and fuel tank, so heat is no issue. Ground clearance would be 6-7 inches. Ideas? Suggestions? I'm going to remove the third cat, replace it with the x-pipe, then go straight back to mufflers (of some sort).

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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 10:46 AM
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I have true duals running under that gas tank tunnel with no problems

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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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What do I do with the 3rd cat to not throw a CEL?

'95 "Black Widow" Thunderbird LX 4.6L V8
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PerfTBird2012 View Post
What do I do with the 3rd cat to not throw a CEL?
Ask yourself this:
Q: Is there a sensor after the 3rd CAT?

I don't remember one. If there isn't a sensor, how would the ECU know to throw a CEL?

-g

PS. I had 3" true duals on my tbird . With a 1.5" suspension drop, I pretty much had 2" of clearance between the lowest point of the exhaust and the ground. Completely impractical for a street car (you'd rub on any road hump -- even the really short ones) and only marginally more useful on the track. It did sound glorious though. We'll see if I keep this setup with the V8.

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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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I just took a look after posting my last question only to find that I'm an idiot. I'm going to keep the stock manifolds and cats up front, replace the third cat with the x-pipe, and then drop the pipe under the fuel tank all the way to the back. If any of that is immediately alarming to anyone, I'd love to hear it. Getting the pipe bent tonight for $10 at a local shop. Thanks!

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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 02:18 PM
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Why would it be "alarming"? Unless you're not going to run the newly bent pipes through the tunnel where the original exhaust went through, you're not doing anything different than others before you.
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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They will not be running through the same exhaust tunnel. They will be dropping 3" before the gas tank then back up 3" and out towards the corners after the rear axle.

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-Muffler/Resonator Delete
-Cold Air Intake (AutoZone plastic homemade)
-Magnum Crankcase Vent Filter (for looks)
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 03:03 PM
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Unless your car is a donk, it's going to scrape like crazy. You're not going to net any kind of performance gain by doing this either

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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 03:32 PM
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That sounds like a hack-job in the making. It should look similar to this (image credit to racecougar)


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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 03:34 PM
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I run no cats on my 95 and have no check engine light

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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Performance is not necessarily what I'm going after by throwing it under the tank. More than anything, it's cheaper and easier. I know "if you're gonna do it, do it right... The easy way isn't always the best way"... etc. but for me, it's the decision I have made. I held the bent pipes up there and I still have a good 5 inches from the ground. Stock suspension and stock 15" wheels. That's higher than the Nissan Sentra SE R next time mine. Haha.

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-Magnum Crankcase Vent Filter (for looks)
-Accel Coil Packs -MSD Wires -Accel Spark Plugs
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by PerfTBird2012 View Post
Performance is not necessarily what I'm going after by throwing it under the tank. More than anything, it's cheaper and easier. I know "if you're gonna do it, do it right... The easy way isn't always the best way"... etc. but for me, it's the decision I have made. I held the bent pipes up there and I still have a good 5 inches from the ground. Stock suspension and stock 15" wheels. That's higher than the Nissan Sentra SE R next time mine. Haha.
Then you'll be set. Oh, I also have a 1.5" drop b/c I'm using the sticky, cheap, yet completely retarded looking Dirazza Star Spec Tires in 205/50-R15s (3" smaller in diameter than a stock profile).

-g

One more thought: Consider adding some form of clamps to allow you to disconnect the exhaust in sections. I got my exhaust in a trade and it's a single, completely unwieldy X shape that's 15' long and 3-4' wide. I may cut my exhaust and add these clamps to make it more maneuverable.

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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 06:38 PM
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Post up some pics after its completed. Id be interested in seeing how the hell you get 5" of clearance from a stock bird. I agree with Matt your going to scrape.

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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PerfTBird2012 View Post
But it would be less obstructive bends in the pipe, and it would conserve pipe as well.
Conserve the pipe !! The last thing you need are obstructive bends .. for all of that hot air you are pushing with that high performance engine, why not just cut the exhaust off right after the resonator ? It will be loud, less obstructive, and you will conserve even more pipe at the same time !!
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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 11:42 PM
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Post up some pics after its completed. Id be interested in seeing how the hell you get 5" of clearance from a stock bird. I agree with Matt your going to scrape.
4" lifts?

I have stock (well, 21 year old!) Sport/SC springs on Ruby, and SHE scrapes occasionally.

To the OP - I'm with the "route them out in front of the back tires" suggestion if conserving pipe is that big a deal. Because, you probably won't conserve but, what, 1 foot or so total?

RwP
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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SCTbird1994 View Post
Conserve the pipe !! The last thing you need are obstructive bends .. for all of that hot air you are pushing with that high performance engine, why not just cut the exhaust off right after the resonator ? It will be loud, less obstructive, and you will conserve even more pipe at the same time !!
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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I'm on an iPhone and I'm not quite sure how to upload a photo. After I read some of the replies this morning, I figured I must've measured wrong. So I mozied out to my car, grabbed the measuring tape from the back seat, and measured 7.5" exact from the bottom most portion of the fuel tank to the ground. I will be running 2.5"OD pipe. If I drop it .5" to make sure it doesn't rattle, that leaves me with 4.5" clearance. Which is .5" greater than the side braces on the car. So unless I'm a complete moron, it will be fine. The point of this thread was to find whether or not its safe and possible to run under the gas tank. Not to focus on conserving pipe or adding HP. I appreciate the opinions, which were, in all honestly, duly noted when respectable.

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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 09:10 AM
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Your missing something else, the fact that it will look like crap. I would be pissed if I saw a pipe hanging down from my car. If you dont have the money then wait and do it correctly. The finished product will look, sound and perform better. Also everyone wont (or probably wont as much) laugh at you behind your back. If you take any kind of pride in your car dont do it

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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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I think all but you will agree that the bends going down instead of sideways will NOT effect the sound OR performance of the exhaust. The bends are still going around the tank (like stock), just down instead of to the side. So that's a bust. And as far as look, I (and the people I've talked to about it so far) don't think it will look all that bad. They will run tight to the bottom of the tank and won't "dangle" or anything.

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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 12:01 PM
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Its your car, do what you want.
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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 02:10 PM
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Sounds like you already had your mind made up before you started the thread.

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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 03:48 PM
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If you want it to sound half way decent just cut the mufflers off for now....

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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 01:22 AM
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Any updates? I'm dying to see how this turned out.

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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 10:17 AM
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Your not even saving that much pipe... 6 inches? Running it near 90 degrees down under the gas tank then again 90 degrees back up is probably more restrictive than just going around the gas tank.. so there's no performance gain either...

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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 11:34 AM
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Any updates? I'm dying to see how this turned out.
^ X2 I'd really like to see pictures of your finished product.

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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 04:26 PM
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Your not even saving that much pipe... 6 inches? Running it near 90 degrees down under the gas tank then again 90 degrees back up is probably more restrictive than just going around the gas tank.. so there's no performance gain either...
90 degree bends are pretty restrictive .. I do pipe fitting work and for every so many 90's we have to up the pipe size so flow wont be restricted - granted its HVAC water supply, not quite the same as exhaust gasses, but Im pretty sure a stock NA motor is not pushing enough gasses for it to make a difference anyways.
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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-16-2013, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
That sounds like a hack-job in the making. It should look similar to this (image credit to racecougar)

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Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
Looks pretty nice! One question though, will they clear the early style exhaust and gas tank?

If the exhaust is tucked up tight to the tank...possibly, but it would be tight.
So, can anyone here tell me if I am correct in assuming that the gas tank in this pic is from a late model MN12 or a FN10? I have my sights set on a dual exhaust setup and the tank would be necessary for it to work as my fuel tank is early model where the single pipe wraps around to the edge of the body (unlike in this photo) Any info is much appreciated!

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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-16-2013, 09:24 PM
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So, can anyone here tell me if I am correct in assuming that the gas tank in this pic is from a late model MN12 or a FN10?
Yes.

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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-16-2013, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreadful_Knight
So, can anyone here tell me if I am correct in assuming that the gas tank in this pic is from a late model MN12 or a FN10?
Yes..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreadful_Knight
I have my sights set on a dual exhaust setup and the tank would be necessary for it to work as my fuel tank is early model where the single pipe wraps around to the edge of the body (unlike in this photo) Any info is much appreciated!
With the exhaust system that Mandrel Exhaust Systems offers..The need for the late model 18 gallon tank is a thing of the past..

If you want to run a dual exhaust system larger than 2-1/2" diameter..Then going with the smaller fuel tank would be a more viable option..

The exhaust system that Mandrel Exhaust Systems offers for the 19 gallon tank will work with up to 2-1/2" dual piping..

Here's a link for the exhaust system offered by Mandrel Exhaust Systems for MN12's with the 19 gallon tank----->>(19 Gallon Tank) Exhaust System



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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 08:44 PM
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So, can anyone here tell me if I am correct in assuming that the gas tank in this pic is from a late model MN12 or a FN10? I have my sights set on a dual exhaust setup and the tank would be necessary for it to work as my fuel tank is early model where the single pipe wraps around to the edge of the body (unlike in this photo) Any info is much appreciated!
It's a '92-97 MN12 fuel tank.

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