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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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My exhaust adventure...or whatever.

So my tranny started slipping a few weeks ago and the temps were supposed to be in the 60s for a few days. Well...me knowing what I know think I should be able to have it out in one day before work and back in the second day before work.

I figured while it was out, I would put in the new 255 fuel pump I have had lying around for 10 years or so since I was already there. Well, with me, things NEVER go as planned so as I started the tear down, I broke a lot of bolts that were rusted in, including the manifold to down pipe bolts.

Not REALLY a problem since I planned on using a set of long tubes. So, after seeing that I would have to knock the floor in at least an inch on the driver's side, I decided to can that idea for now and use the shorties I have had lying around for...well...lets just say I collect parts for my cars. I have had them a while.

Seeing that the floor is kind of rusty at the rear of the car, I am not going to put it back together until I get that handled. So, after 2 days of working on it, by removing all the extra stuff, I ended up just getting mad and walking away because of the weather. Rain and 20ish degree temps for this guy means I am driving something different and saying screw it.

Last night, I was going to start cutting up my Y pipe and making the new one out of 2.5" and running the cats that I had on my red car that will not need them for a good while. With that said, I cut the old 2.5" cats from the pipes, and found that the PO had them hollowed out. So, an order to summit for new cats and a 2 to 1 2.5 to 3" Y pipe fit the bill and was ordered. I have 2 or 3 3" mandrel bent tail pipes lying around for this very purpose, so I went out tonight and started my later half of the exhaust. Sorry for the links, I am still trying to figure out how to make the pics show up.










I have to wait on the front half of the exhaust to go there, but the tank and axle stuff will be tacked all the way to the single flowmaster out the rear.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 11:14 PM
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 03:22 PM
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 08:01 PM
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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The front (header back) was off of an sn95 5.0 I think. I should have tried to bolt it on first, just to see if it would fit. I know it would be close, but I am going to run cats so I started hackin away.

While I was under there, I found this. Sounds exciting right?



SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 06:43 AM
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Read the sticky on how to upload pictures. Its here somewhere.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 02:27 AM
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the delay guys. I have found the 1 thing I like about android over Apple stuff. Trying to get some sort of site that I can do from my phone.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 03:00 AM
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Started with an f-150 tail pipe.



Hmmm...some of these bends are really close...where is my saw...









SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Not really jazzed about the fact that the flowmasters have 1 heat shield, but ya know.

I am trying to do too many things at once so I gotta run. Will post more pix when fotosuckit finally finishes uploading my junk...

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone know how far from the tranny the cats should be? I have to figure that out now since the tranny went back in tonight?

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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So while was looking at the rockers, it appears there was no saving them. 200k + on the ticker so no problems/complaints about that, but the tranny tunnel could use some attention. Knocked the rust off of the obvious parts. Primed the surface all up. Mixed up some semigloss white and...



Good enough for a headache and a new tranny.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014, 07:44 PM
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You'd have to cut out the affected panels from the rocker area and weld/braze up new steel in it's place. Do-able, but obviously time consuming.

Good work on the exhaust. using a MIG?

You're never going to be able to get a good alignment with the LCA Cam bolt out of place like that. Should get that fixed ASAP.
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I know I have to cut them out. Thats what I am going to do eventually. I have a mig and a stick. The welds dont look the best since the wind is getting to me while I am doing it. But its what I have so I will make do.

As soon as I get it back on the ground and am sure the tranny and exhaust are solid, I will fix the alignment. Little more weld and some love with a hammer and I will be good to go.

Next is building a rear subframe.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 08:47 PM
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Yup I work outdoors too and I hate the wind. I'm going to buy some 6'x8' canvas tarps on ebay to make myself a little draft-free welding cubicle. Takes me a week to make 1" linear weld using any process

What kind of work do you plan on doing to the subframe?
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Its not the best work, but I guess I could have cleaned them before welding, but that would have added a days worth of work to what I have done. I am behind behind behind. I think within 2 hours, I should be ready to pull them out and paint over all of the welds. Well, maybe not. I still have to make my boom tube.

As far as the subframe goes, I have my spare in the garage. It is going to get welded, gussets, braces, and a cross bar.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 03:21 PM
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Better than my MIG welding, lol. Mine is more like MIG-tacking, lol. Yea I have a spare subframe as well. Simplifies working with one by having an extra one that's for sure.

Those beads are fine for exhaust since it wasn't too rusty to begin with. Standard ER70-S6 MIG wire has a bunch of deoxidizers to cut through mild rust and scale pretty well and they just float up to the surface of the weld bead. I sometimes use straightened 0.045" MIG wire when I TIG for that reason. When I built both sets of 4.6 Longtube headers, it's all I used, since no amount of cleaning will guarantee a clean weld on used mild-steel headers. Better safe than sorry.
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 02:29 PM
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I do have a question is why have a h connected to a y?

the y acts the same imop but I may be wrong
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Basically because it was there. Nothing fancy, nothing scientific, no physics involved. It came as an H pipe from a 5.0 SN95 for free. After cutting and welding, it was easier to throw in a cross pipe than to cover it.

As of now, I am in the process of making the boom tube and rear hanger. I need to get the 3" band clamp for my tail pipe to Y, Muffler, and tip. All else is done.

It is a pain to be on the ground doing this. on your back, slide out, cut on your back. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Then add to the fact that I am outside and the weather. Pix and vid when its done.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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It is about...ready, I guess. I put it together and am driving it. Leaks at the flange on the pass side which is the easy one right? Its not bad but I know its there so I have to fix it. The boom tube is only so so and the drone is a LOT less than what it was and is almost nonexistent below 60. But right at 60 up to he fastest I have gone (70-75), it is loud. Which means at 50-55 with my 3.73s will be the same which is not acceptable.

As far as the exhaust design, it seems to have a flatter curve that falls on its face at higher rpms. I think it is breathing better and causing my oil consumption to climb. I think if I can fix the current problems, the power will be a lot better. May be new engine time.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 02:00 PM
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Another FSB guy, I remembered your user name

Looks like a job well done. I plan to tackle my exhaust soon. I was thinking of making it sound more like a mustang.
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 02:42 AM
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When you say "boom tube", do you mean the NASCAR style side exit flat exhaust?



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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRONCONUT View Post
Another FSB guy, I remembered your user name

Looks like a job well done. I plan to tackle my exhaust soon. I was thinking of making it sound more like a mustang.
Agreed...... is FSB going to take over the third world now......lol
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 07:41 PM
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We might as well they are both owned by autoguide now.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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I call it a boom tube for reasons unknown to man. It is a resonator and mine only works (like a champ mind you) until like 2k. It is just a tube that runs next to the pipe and is supposed to equalize the sound waves so it does not drone.

I have narrowed down the other problem I have, but the car does not see a problem. Once it heats up, it kicks up the idle to about 2k RPMs. I almost refuse to believe it is a vacuum leak since if you shut off the car, you can restart it and idle is at or really close to normal. Something is commanding the IAB to 60ish% and I am about at a loss as to what it is. The converter locks full (even in 3rd gear) and it starts to pull the car down the road. When you area at higher speeds, it feels like it locks and unlocks which I believe is the IAB going from 30-65ish%. Hitting the brakes only shuts off the converter for a second (literally) and then it locks back up and pulls the car as you are trying to slow.

I have owned my FSB since 97. It is an 84. It is rusty and needs a LOT of TLC. The SAS stuff is in the works now and when I get it together, I am going to finish putting the turbo on it and the new floor in it. But my free time has become super hard to come by. My kids are at the age now that I realize if I do not spend time with them, I will miss it. I work afternoons/nights and they are in school when I get up, and in bed when I get home. Sucks, but such as life. That is most of the reason for not sticking to my posts.

SWS

Soon to have some MHS parts, cams, 'luminum block, lower compression, ported heads, autorotor, and need to make long tubes. I have almost all the stuff and need some #42-50s a bypass valve, and maybe a few other things.
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