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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Exhaust Ideas

I would like your opinions for a good loud exhaust setup. Platform is a 92 5.0 Bird and it is going to have a pretty aggresive cam and long tube headers. The cats will most likely be removed as well as the resonator and I have Mac Flowpath mufflers from my old setup. I know Trunk Monkey designed a setup for a Mark 8 that I heard on Youtube and that sounded amazing!! I dont know what it was though. What are your opinions please. Thanks!

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 04:01 PM
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Anything with long tubes will necessitate custom piping. I suggest you buy the mandrel bent tubing from Josh @ Mandrel Exhaust Systems and go to town. This means you or someone you pay will need to do the welding.

Decisions:
- Single or dual outlets. Dual 2.5" or Single 3" piping would be more than enough for an N/A application. I picked single 3" to save weight.

- if you are planning to re-use your MAC Flowpath mufflers, I'd size the back end for the port size on your existing mufflers. If you decide to go bigger, go with something else that is also baffled.

- BTW, I know from experience that with no cats, a single 3" cherry bomb is NOT enough muffler for any car if you like your neighbors and your own sanity. It's waay too loud. Good news is that your flowpath mufflers seem to have a baffled design which will cut down significantly on the loud crack/pops. I ended up welding a 3" flowmaster after a cherry bomb that really did nothing to quiet the high pitched exhaust popping. I honestly think that without the flowmaster 40, I would have been too loud for even the race track (95db around here).

- X-bend or H-bend. The idea of crossing over the pipes is that the exhaust pulses will help even out exhaust flow and maximize exhaust velocity. I used an Y-pipe as it's an easy replacement for your 3rd cat and I have a single exhaust outlet. If you are going with a dual setup, I'd probably pick an Xpipe because of it's increased scavenging effect and the fact that it's compact enough to fit underneath the car there the 3rd cat sits.

- Whatever custom system you put together, make sure to weld flanges on the design so you don't have to unbolt an unwieldy 15' system as one piece. Other people have used slipfits but in other threads, people have complained that they eventually started leaking.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=118883&page=7

- Consider keeping your cats since your car is a DD or replace them with high-flow cats since they are probably near the end of their life anyway. It's better for the environment (aka the air YOU breathe).

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 05:19 PM
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In addition to cleaning up the exhaust, cats are pretty effective at cutting back the higher pitch sounds from the exhaust and the drone. Also if you have ever been around a car that is idling with no cats, your eyes will literally start to water if you stop behind the car. My recommendation for a good sounding loud exhaust, but not too loud for a DD is dual 2.5" pipes, cats off the headers into a mid-mounted magnaflow DIDO x-pipe muffler, then around the tank and out to a pair of welded mufflers out back. The cats and the magnaflow will cut out the high pitch drone, and the mufflers in the back will quiet it slightly. Also if after doing this, you get tired of it, a pair of turbo mufflers in the back will quiet it down a lot more, and would be easy enough to swap out.

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-21-2015, 12:17 AM
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you want it loud you say
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Would BBK longtubes form a 5.0 foxbody fit our 5.0 cars? I found a guy who has those with an x-pipe for $150.

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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 10:16 AM
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Probably not. I tried a set of BBKs on my 393 in my Cougar, and while the driver's side actually cleared just fine with the steering shaft mod, the passenger side was hitting the frame rail, the subframe, and the floor. With a 5.0 instead of a 5.8 based motor, it might help with clearance on some of those points, but I don't see them fitting without extensive modification. The headers that are the closest to a bolt-in swap are the Mac 1-5/8 longtubes. Any other fox body headers is going to be a crap-shoot whether it fits or not.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks MM, I'll take your word for it.

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLINTHUNDER View Post
Thanks MM, I'll take your word for it.
I have a write up about how to do long tubes and the part to use. It's in the exhaust forum.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Yep MadM I saw that one and will probly be using it too. My setup when complete will look very similar to yours except the stroker part. Im sure with the Trick Flow top end kit, the 5 speed and 3.27 gears it should put down some pretty good numbers hopefully. Haul so a$$ too!

Eibach pro kit springs w/rear cobra bilstiens, rear disc conversion, 2000 Cobra R wheels, 89 SC track-lock swap w/mark 8 cv shafts, 89 front and rear sway bars
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLINTHUNDER View Post
Yep MadM I saw that one and will probly be using it too. My setup when complete will look very similar to yours except the stroker part. Im sure with the Trick Flow top end kit, the 5 speed and 3.27 gears it should put down some pretty good numbers hopefully. Haul so a$$ too!
That should definitely do it. I have a lot of tech posted that will work very well for your setup. Be sure and follow a lot so you can learn the lessons I learned without the cost I incurred. Good luck.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Question. I looked up both part numbers for the headers that MadM gave on his write up. They say theyre for a 79-93 Foxbody with a manual transmission. I was looking up parts here at work at Advance Auto and we can get a set of Flowtech headers part# 12104flt tomorrow from our warehouse. Theyre for a 79-93 Foxbody with a manual and they are also 1-5/8 tubes. Think they'll work? They were $142!

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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 08:11 AM
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Maybe, maybe not, only way to know for sure is to buy them and try them out. Every header manufacturer comes up with a different way to package all the tubes in the engine bay. Since our engine bay is different and tighter than the Mustang's, there is a chance that some of the tubes will hit something. For that price though, it would probably be worth trying, and if they don't work, you can sell them on ebay and probably get back most of what you paid for them.

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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'll give them a shot and see. If they work good then it gives us another header option and if they dont I'll just return them and get my money back! lol

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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 09:40 AM
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Question. I looked up both part numbers for the headers that MadM gave on his write up. They say theyre for a 79-93 Foxbody with a manual transmission. I was looking up parts here at work at Advance Auto and we can get a set of Flowtech headers part# 12104flt tomorrow from our warehouse. Theyre for a 79-93 Foxbody with a manual and they are also 1-5/8 tubes. Think they'll work? They were $142!
Be careful of the internet. Here is Mac's link: MAC Ford Mustang 5.L 1979-1993 5 Speed Ceramac Long Tube Headers

At the bottom of the product description is this statement:

*****Note: MAC TFA793 is for use with AutomaticTransmissions Only, TFA793 will not work with any 5 or 6 Speed Transmissions. Made to work with Stock OEM, Dart or GT40 Heads, Stock K-Members and Stock Motor Mounts.*****

I would say that the Flowtech headers won't work based on that statement.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 09:47 AM
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I would say since we are trying to put these headers into a completely different platform, all bets are off! Maybe they will work, maybe they won't. Maybe they will work on his car since it is 5-speed swapped, but not on an automatic car. The only way to know for sure is to buy they and try to install them and see how many things are in the way.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 05:53 PM
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Side pipes would look neat with some side skirts. Be careful of fuel line lol

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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 11:33 PM
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I like my exhaust with the 2.5" mandrel bent kit and Magnaflow rear mufflers and DI/DO resonator. I also have hi flo cats. I found there was too much drone for cruising with an xpipe and no cats. Like loose your hearing loud. Now it's quiet at idle and roars when you punch it.

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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2015, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Correct me if im wrong but wouldnt they have a better chance of fitting being that the manual is not as wide as the automatic? I think I ordered them for a manual anyway.

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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2015, 07:53 AM
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Correct me if im wrong but wouldnt they have a better chance of fitting being that the manual is not as wide as the automatic? I think I ordered them for a manual anyway.
Honestly, there is a lot of talk about this that took place over 10 years ago. I did a lot of homework and the headers I ended up getting were the only ones that I could make fit without doing the steering mod. If they clear an AOD then they'll clear a manual since it's narrow. I tried a set for a manual and they wouldn't work at all no matter what I tried. Also, if you go with ones for a manual and you get them to fit the odds are that you'll never fit a decent oil pan. Even in my case I had to raise the engine about 3/4" to clear the K member and steering shaft. When I did that I had to "clearance" the floor pan to clear the collector flange. If you buy non ceramic coated ones then you can remove the flange and reposition it clear the floor pan without a lot of extra clearance.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2015, 02:37 PM
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Then after you raise the engine up enough to get the longtubes off the K-Member..Your stock hood doesn't close anymore..

Lower the engine so you don't have do "beat the living hell" out of your floor pan, and then you have to clearance your K-Member..



Damned if you do, Damned if you don't..

The joys of installing longtube headers on a (5.0) MN12..





Rayo..

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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2015, 02:49 PM
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Then after you raise the engine up enough to get the longtubes off the K-Member..Your stock hood doesn't close anymore..

Lower the engine so you don't have do "beat the living hell" out of your floor pan, and then you have to clearance your K-Member..



Damned if you do, Damned if you don't..

The joys of installing longtube headers on a (5.0) MN12..

Rayo..
You're right. In my case I installed a new engine and intake that required a new hood anyway. However, based on your pictures I can see any opportunity to get rid of my spacers for the engine since I'm getting ready to drop the K member to clearance it for a new oil pan. I may as well clearance it for my longtubes as well.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Lucky enough for me I already have a cowl hood! So MadM, did you have to do anything else to yours other than raise the motor and clearence the floor pan to get your Macs to fit? I would probly go with the non ceramics so I could cut off the flanges to rotate them.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 12:02 PM
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Lucky enough for me I already have a cowl hood! So MadM, did you have to do anything else to yours other than raise the motor and clearence the floor pan to get your Macs to fit? I would probly go with the non ceramics so I could cut off the flanges to rotate them.
That's all I had to do to make them fit. If you're willing to drop your K member to make room there then you may not have to do any of that honestly. The only question I would have for that is steering shaft clearance because I seem to recall having to raise the engine to clear the steering shaft on the driver's side.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 02:40 PM
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If doing the MAC headers, I would also recommend some kind of solid motor mount on the driver's side. I have the MAC headers on the lemons car, and one time when going around a turn while on the gas, the movement of the motor was enough to cause the steering shaft to hit the headers, which locked the steering and caused the car to spin out. Luckily that was on a closed course and no contact was made with any other vehicles, but if that happened on the street due to a worn out or broken motor mount, it could cause problems.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 02:54 PM
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If doing the MAC headers, I would also recommend some kind of solid motor mount on the driver's side. I have the MAC headers on the lemons car, and one time when going around a turn while on the gas, the movement of the motor was enough to cause the steering shaft to hit the headers, which locked the steering and caused the car to spin out. Luckily that was on a closed course and no contact was made with any other vehicles, but if that happened on the street due to a worn out or broken motor mount, it could cause problems.
Good call out. I have solid rubber mounts that I'm getting ready to replace with a set of poly mounts from Turbo Chuck.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 12:03 PM
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Then after you raise the engine up enough to get the longtubes off the K-Member..Your stock hood doesn't close anymore..

Lower the engine so you don't have do "beat the living hell" out of your floor pan, and then you have to clearance your K-Member...
So, I have my K member dropped and I'm having a hard time understanding what's going on in your pictures. The interference I experienced was only on the passenger side and on the rear of the K member. The pictures indicate interference on the driver's side and on the front and the rear of the K member. What headers were used that required that level of "clearance"?

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 03:11 PM
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So, I have my K member dropped and I'm having a hard time understanding what's going on in your pictures. The interference I experienced was only on the passenger side and on the rear of the K member. The pictures indicate interference on the driver's side and on the front and the rear of the K member. What headers were used that required that level of "clearance"?
The headers in the pics are 5 speed (uncoated) Mac Long tube Headers (Part#TF72016)

quick35th did the installation in his 92 (5.0) SC..

The part of the K-Member where the rag joint bolts to the rack..He had to make clearance for one of the header tubes.


The top center portion of the K-Member had to be clearanced for the front sump of his aftermarket Milodon oil pan..


Since he was using 5 speed headers..That's probably the reason he required a little more clearance in rag joint area of the K-Member..





Rayo..

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.
1991 Ford Thunderbird Sport

"If you don't know where you're going..Any road will take you there." George Harrison
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 03:14 PM
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I'm pretty sure those were the headers he got from me. Those headers were for a Fox Mustang with a T5. They definitely required a ton of clearance to be made. The Mac TFA-793 doesn't require all of that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
The headers in the pics are 5 speed (uncoated) Mac Long tube Headers (Part#TF72016)

quick35th did the installation in his 92 (5.0) SC..

The part of the K-Member where the rag joint bolts to the rack..He had to make clearance for one of the header tubes.


The top center portion of the K-Member had to be clearanced for the front sump of his aftermarket Milodon oil pan..


Since he was using 5 speed headers..That's probably the reason he required a little more clearance in rag joint area of the K-Member..





Rayo..

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMartigan View Post
I'm pretty sure those were the headers he got from me. Those headers were for a Fox Mustang with a T5. They definitely required a ton of clearance to be made. The Mac TFA-793 doesn't require all of that.


If you can indicate (with pictures) what parts of your K-Member needs to be modified using the Mac TFA-793 headers..

I'm sure it would be appreciated..

That is rather than raising your engine like you had previously done..
To simply modifying the K-Member, and using stock height motor mounts..Without raising the engine any..





Rayo..

.
.
1991 Ford Thunderbird Sport

"If you don't know where you're going..Any road will take you there." George Harrison
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayo View Post


If you can indicate (with pictures) what parts of your K-Member needs to be modified using the Mac TFA-793 headers..

I'm sure it would be appreciated..

That is rather than raising your engine like you had previously done..
To simply modifying the K-Member, and using stock height motor mounts..Without raising the engine any....
Sure, I can do that. Just so that everyone understands, raising the engine and banging on the floor pans was easier than modifying the K member with the engine in the car when I did it before. At that point I didn't really have the know how to remove the K member safely nor did I have the motivation. I've since become a better welder and I'm less afraid to do this kind of thing. Modifying the K member still isn't something that's "easy" though.

"When the only tool you have is a hammer, suddenly everything looks like a nail."
"Nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious."
1992 Ford Thunderbird SC

Coast High Peformance 347 Stroker
-Low Tension Oil Rings, Zero Gap Seconds
-10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads
Trick Flow Stage 1 cam
Trick Flow Street Heat Intake
Mac 1 5/8 long tube headers
FRPP 42# injectors
3.27 gears
Custom aluminum driveshaft
M5R2
Burned Chip for SN95 T4M0 ECM
OMGHI2U

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