Y-pipe woes 95 LX 4.6 - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Y-pipe woes 95 LX 4.6

Thought I'd be able to remove the Dual Converter Y Pipe by disconnecting it from the exhaust pipe, but nope, not enough clearance, have to take the intermediate muffler off of the Y Pipe. I'm not finding a replacement intermediate muffler (the item called "Conv." at Walker's web page http://catalog.walkerexhaust.com/cat...dStatus=ACTIVE) in any of the on-line catalogs I usually use. Gotta get the Y Pipe out of the way so I can access the EGR tube. Heat and penetrant, don't want to have to cut it. Anyone know of the proper size muffler to replace the original equipment?

Thanks,
Jim
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 02:40 PM
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You could just replace it with a section of pipe if you need to. 96-97s don't even use that resonater.

-Matt
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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That's a good idea, thanks. Don't know how fussy the emission inspection station will be (reason I'm finally messing with the clogged EGR tube) but I'll try it if I have to.

Thanks,
Jim
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 08:50 AM
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How many miles are on that car? Mine didn't clog that pipe up until over 200k miles. With high miles, it will eventually clog again from burning oil.

Al

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim3inVirginia View Post
That's a good idea, thanks. Don't know how fussy the emission inspection station will be (reason I'm finally messing with the clogged EGR tube) but I'll try it if I have to.

Thanks,
Jim
Shouldn't give you any fuss as long as the converters are in tact. Resonators/mufflers aren't part of the emissions system.
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-Matt
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Woo-hoo! Got it. 232K miles. Was going to break the nuts off the front clamp but the nuts came off so I saved the clamp. PB blaster and oil applied at the muffler inlet a few times over the last day, wiggled the muffler as much as I could. Heated up the muffler inlet good then alternating hits with hammer and block of wood on each side of the front rim of the muffler and it's off. Dual converter Y Pipe out.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim3inVirginia View Post
Thought I'd be able to remove the Dual Converter Y Pipe by disconnecting it from the exhaust pipe, but nope, not enough clearance, have to take the intermediate muffler off of the Y Pipe. I'm not finding a replacement intermediate muffler (the item called "Conv." at Walker's web page http://catalog.walkerexhaust.com/cat...dStatus=ACTIVE) in any of the on-line catalogs I usually use. Gotta get the Y Pipe out of the way so I can access the EGR tube. Heat and penetrant, don't want to have to cut it. Anyone know of the proper size muffler to replace the original equipment?

Thanks,
Jim
I'm confused. The 'y' pipe was no where near the egr tube on my '95 4.6 when I eliminated it in the process of installing my mandrel bent dual exhaust.

How is removing the 'y' pipe going to give you access to the EGR tube? The factory service manual doesn't mention the 'y' pipe in the EGR tube removal process.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 12:53 PM
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The section of exhaust containing the three converters (where the third goes 2 to 1, technically a Y) is what I assume he's talking about removing. There's no way to get a wrench on the EGR nut with that exhaust section in place.

-Matt
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Walker calls the exhaust pipe a Y-pipe. Ford calls the front pipe a Dual Converter Y Pipe.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 09:19 AM
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The threads on those exposed studs look pretty gnarly. Even if there's limited space and the positioning is awkward, in your shoes I would chase those threads with a die before reassembly.

That - plus antisieze goo -- will make reassembly and any potential future removal -- a ton easier.

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about getting some anti-seize. I ran a M10-1.50 nut up the threads, think I'm okay with the right side. Broke the two bolts on the left side removing the nuts. They drill out of the manifold easy enough with good drill bits, finding a M10-1.50 tap without buying a whole set is not so easy. Thinking about using 3/8-16 that I have on hand and getting 3/18-16 studs for the left side.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim3inVirginia View Post
Walker calls the exhaust pipe a Y-pipe. Ford calls the front pipe a Dual Converter Y Pipe.
Jim, help my old eyes. It seems to me at this point in the process you have removed the CAT, and the exhaust manifold. Is that what must be done in order to work on the EGR system?

The factory manual is a bit confusing:

4.6 engine EGR removal

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. Remove ari cleaner outlet tube as outlined in Section 03-12.
3. CAUTION: Use care not to damage EGR valve tube to manifold connector (9F-485).
Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube from EGR valve and EGR valve tube to manifold connector.
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Disconnect EGR pressure sensor hoses from EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube.
6. Disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve.
7 Remove two retaining bolts from EGR valve.
8. Remove EGR valve, EGR valve gasket and EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube from vehicle.

Thanks for your input.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 02:00 PM
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That's the procedure to remove the valve only, not how to remove the tube from the exhaust manifold

-Matt
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim3inVirginia View Post
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about getting some anti-seize. I ran a M10-1.50 nut up the threads, think I'm okay with the right side. Broke the two bolts on the left side removing the nuts. They drill out of the manifold easy enough with good drill bits, finding a M10-1.50 tap without buying a whole set is not so easy. Thinking about using 3/8-16 that I have on hand and getting 3/18-16 studs for the left side.
I can honestly say I've been surprised how often I've pulled out my trusty $20 (when on sale after coupon) HF tap and die set. I use the 65pc set but the 40pc set seems like a pretty good value as well.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 05:11 PM
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I can honestly say I've been surprised how often I've pulled out my trusty $20 (when on sale after coupon) HF tap and die set. I use the 65pc set but the 40pc set seems like a pretty good value as well.
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HF rocks for tools you use infrequently.

Cheap, decent quality.

Things you use a lot, you will replace with something better, but it's rare for me to do so.

People that dislike HF have unrealistic expectations out of a $20 tool, lol.

Also, Summit has free shipping a lot, so it's worth checking them as well when you look for stuff.

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Bob

Matt is right, description is for the EGR valve, not the EGR tube.

When I replaced the intake manifold gaskets, I didn't see that I had clearance to remove the EGR valve with the intake manifold off. I understand other people have, but at the time the technique eluded me. And at the time was singularly focused on fixing a coolant leak.

Over the last couple years, check engine light codes have progressed from DPFE upstream hose no flow to EGR valve no flow. So I'm pursuing removing the EGR tube and EGR valve assembly out the top by disconnecting EGR tube from exhaust manifold (I have not removed the exhaust manifold) and removing the two bolts that mount the EGR valve to the intake manifold, which was relatively easy with the cowl paraphernalia removed.

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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 03:41 PM
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When you replace the EGR valve, be sure to get one with the vacuum port in the same location. The updated version of the valve has the port relocated, which is impossible to connect the green hard plastic line to.

I ended up calling Jason (not on here anymore unfortunately) to get a vintage 1995 valve with the port in the proper location.

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 03:50 PM
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To add, I would make valve stem seals your next priority after the EGR is done. At 232k miles, the EGR system will clog back up a lot quicker than it did the first time, from oil burning.

Al

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Valve stem seals job is on the list. Bardahl No Smoke has worked as an interim solution to eliminating the visible smoke at acceleration from traffic light stop.

Thanks.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Final word on the Exhaust \ Dual Converter Y-pipe job: Got the two broken bolts drilled out. Outboard bolt on the left side goes in from the Y-pipe flange, so with the Y-pipe removed it's easy to drill out the broken bolt. Attached picture shows the outboard bolt had broken out cleanly from the manifold, had to be drilled out of the removed Y-pipe assembly. If undertaking this job probably best just to break it off from the beginning rather than messing with penetrant and trying to reach the nut on the top side of the manifold with a torch. I used a 15 mm swivel deep socket and extensions to reach it from the top.

I got a M10-1.5 tap from HD. Came with a drill bit marked 311 which fits the 11/64 hole in my template. I had already drilled out the two holes up to 11/64 using a series of increasingly larger "hard metal" bits I got from HD. I'll pick up a M10-1.5 exhaust stud kit from Advance, looks like the 72 mm length ones in Dorman #03131 is what I want.

Below freezing in my unheated garage and project is on hold for the next couple days, I'll put something over in Engine - 4.6 & 5.0 when I get back to it and have something to report on the EGR tube removal.
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Last edited by Jim3inVirginia; 01-07-2017 at 06:36 PM.
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 08:55 PM
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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OK. Budget several days for the job. Book a room in a nearby hotel, then send the family sightseeing while you and I work on the Cougar. I think after doing mine I have all the tools needed, spent about $200 getting the right sockets, wrenches, drill bits, etc. Rather spend it on tools than a Ford dealership with questionable capabilities.
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 03:07 PM
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OK. Budget several days for the job. Book a room in a nearby hotel, then send the family sightseeing while you and I work on the Cougar. I think after doing mine I have all the tools needed, spent about $200 getting the right sockets, wrenches, drill bits, etc. Rather spend it on tools than a Ford dealership with questionable capabilities.
Two chances: slim and none, of finding a mechanic who is really intimate with our cars. The real mechanics are on tccoa.com

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