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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2008, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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rear mount differences?

Hi All,
Just thought i would throw out a question to all the turbo guru's out there, if someone was to attempt a DIY rear mount setup what kind of specs would be ideal? I'm curious how different the A/R should be on the turbo to deal with the much cooler air charge. What about exhaust sizing? Does the exhaust have to be reduced to help keep the velocity up? How small is too small?

I'd love to hear from everyone what there thoughts are?

Thanks a bunch!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 09:38 AM
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STS is the system i would use if i had the $$ and time ... they make a universal system ,,, here is the link http://www.ststurbo.com/universal_system
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 12:35 PM
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you could find 2 chrysler T3s and mount them at the rear( the old turbo dodges of the 80s...daytona, lebaron, caravan...) They have small .42/.48 housings for a fast spool. One guy used them on a 302 stang remote mount and on the dyno the wastegates didnt open on one of his pulls and by time the tuner noticed the car made 500+rwhp (thou blowing ineffecient hot air by then). I was using them for my remote mounted setup but I killed the remote mount after obtaining a set of larger turbos

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by twin turbo 281 View Post
you could find 2 chrysler T3s and mount them at the rear( the old turbo dodges of the 80s...daytona, lebaron, caravan...) They have small .42/.48 housings for a fast spool. One guy used them on a 302 stang remote mount and on the dyno the wastegates didnt open on one of his pulls and by time the tuner noticed the car made 500+rwhp (thou blowing ineffecient hot air by then). I was using them for my remote mounted setup but I killed the remote mount after obtaining a set of larger turbos
unless you are welding directly to the inlet on the turbine housing, those are a pain in the butt since they use the same offset T3 bolt pattern as the earlier dodge 2.2/2.5 mitsu TDO4H turbos....you pretty much have to source a flange off ebay and half those dont fit right...and again...they are TINY turbos and you dont WANT to run them over 18psi if even that as they are WAYYYY out of their efficiency range at that high of pressure and mainly are producing heat instead of good compressed air.

two things to remember for a remote turbo setup is that you need room under the car to mount the turbo(s) up out of the way...(such as at least above the rear axle) so nothing hits them lol. and you have to have a dedicated oil feed/return system for them as they are mounted so far from the engine. on the other side, because they are mounted so far away...the oil feed/return acts as a hell of an oil cooler for the engine oil due to the length of the lines

but you also have to worry about debris cutting into the lines unless you go snatch some spare fuel hardline from the junkyard to use for the long parts.

also, dont let the distance fool you. You can use the SAME size turbos that engine compartment turbo setups use....you'll just have a few hundred rpm more delay in boost onset from engine compartment setups due to the length of tubing that needs to be pressurized.

this is also a benefit as the length of tubing also effectively acts as a secondary intercooler and some people even note that they dont even need an intercooler (or to chop up their bumper/bumper support for one) as they record the same temp loss over the distance as with an intercooler with an engine compartment intercooled setup.

bad thing is...yeah, you also have to find room for the pipes too. bad if you're running front wheel drive with basically no driveshaft tunnel haha.

on the bright side with remote setups that you do yourself...all you gotta do is find a decent place underneath to cut the pipe and weld your flange and then put a proper bend in for the output from the turbine and then...well...you go from there routing your compressor lines, etc.


STS is good if you dont know how to cut/weld or have no mechanical imagination...and more money that god...but if you look at one of their setups and look good at the pics, its pretty much an already though out blueprint on how to do your own setup lol.

I did two remote setups but went back with engine compartment setups due to not having to deal with all kinds of long tubing that I had to get straight and high so it wouldnt show under the car, etc.

not to mention in winter if I hit a rain puddle...I cracked two turbine housings from the cold shock of the water on the hot ass housing lol!!

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 10:14 PM
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I have seen it done I email someone I seen do it and when I get the response of a good company I'll let everyone know.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Great information guys. Sorry i never wrote back my computer bit the big one!! Stackz, can i run a stock exhaust all the way back to the turbos? What diameter of inlet pipe?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boots View Post
Great information guys. Sorry i never wrote back my computer bit the big one!! Stackz, can i run a stock exhaust all the way back to the turbos? What diameter of inlet pipe?
Sir William's install pics

That might help.

-Rob

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boots View Post
Great information guys. Sorry i never wrote back my computer bit the big one!! Stackz, can i run a stock exhaust all the way back to the turbos? What diameter of inlet pipe?
You can also use exhaust wrap and or coatings to keep heat in the exhaust system.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by twin turbo 281 View Post
You can also use exhaust wrap and or coatings to keep heat in the exhaust system.
Wrap will eat up your pipes.. I have a new DEI package that I am having double thoughts in using


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-20-2009, 12:37 AM
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not if you coat the pipes before wraping them and it depends on where you live and for example if you park your car in the garage and dont drive it in the rain its not going to get that much moisture

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