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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2007, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Twin Turbo 302

After putting some thought into it im going to turbo my project. I will beef the internals while i have the motor apart and all. Right now im gathering exhaust ideas and what now. since i will be running a carbed setup i will have a little more room then most. As of now im thinking out the location of the two turbos. Location 1 has them sitting out directly in front of the motor on a common exhaust tube similar to twin turbo 281's setup. Location two has me relocating the battery and placing a turbo in the old air box and battery location. The exhaust header so far im thinking will be something similar to a 40bob.com product for the turbo coupes. To give you guys an idea here is a picture of one of his headers. Let me know what you think and any ideas you may have to aid me in this project.


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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2007, 06:27 PM
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those headers are for bolting a t3 style flange turbo directly to the exhaust manifold. You may have room for this on the drivers side, but you certainly will not on the passenger side. Maybe if you had some custom made that angled downward more than that to kind of hug the block, but I think you'll have starter clearance issues then. I doubt turbos will fit right off the exhaust manifold.

Now in the airbox and battery locations is very doable, I posted this pic in twin281's post

and as you can see they fit very nicely. Not sure what kind of turbos those are but they arent small ones. Maybe t3/t4 or something close. Anyway, If you bring them up front you're better off keeping one turbo to one side of the engine rather than having then connecting tube like turbo281 has. It has such a sharp bend to the turbine and then there's the fact that both sides of exhaust are going to flow directly into eachother. I had planned on putting my turbos in the same location as the pic above, but now I'm just going to use a single turbo in the airbox location. (after I get bored of the lightning blower hehe).

You could also toy around with the idea of putting them in the fender walls.

You may also consider using a single turbo. Lots less tubing to run, which saves room in a crowded bay like the mn12's. And there's really no benefit to twins anymore, aside from the coolness factor.

-Thomas

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2007, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Thomas. Now with the header I wasnt planning on a direct bolt up but more of that being a starting point. There would be another removable piece of tubing, lets say 2', that connects the log to the turbo? Also i think i will keep them infront of the towers for a good gravity drain and im not very far from the oil sending unit so i could tap that for my oil supply like one the fox bodys aswell. i havent put a ton of thought into it yet but when im working, air frieght packer, i have a bunch of free time to think about stuff but nowhere to write it down. lol.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2007, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Also if they are infront like in the pictures i have a great support platform to work with for the heavy thing!

-zero

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1998 Ford Taurus SE 24v Duratec auto "DD"
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 06:09 AM
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I came up with an idea for a single turbo setup years ago. If you were to use the SC rad setup (Griffin upgrade) and remove the air to air in intercooler it looks like you have room for a single turbo in that spot. I don't think anyone has tried this one yet. A front mount intercooler would be the needed for this setup but that has been done. BTW MitchB has a ICON twin turbo setup on his Bird with a built A4-Block 5.0.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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I justed emailed Mitch and thats pending. Im hoping to see a nice setup that will give me tons of ideas. Now for the exhaust headers/manifolds i was thinking lastnight while laying in bed. What about taking early 302 manifolds and cutting of the main log to leave the individual cylinder downtubes. Now with these downtubes i could go and make a new "reversed" exiting exhaust that would lead on over to each turbo. How does that sound so far? Maybe even throw in the removable "to turbo" tubes.

-zero

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1998 Ford Taurus SE 24v Duratec auto "DD"
1966 Ford Galaxy 500 352 Cruise-O-Matic "Restoration Car"

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 07:44 PM
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if you're going to make jointed pipes you'd be best off not using those manifolds. Those manifolds are designed to have turbos mounted directly to them. You'd be better off using V-Band clamps They are spendy, but they seal and don't leak, and there's no gasket needed. It will never burn out or leak unless it's due to the welders poor job.

You'd be best off getting a couple of exhaust manifolds and cutting off everything but an inch or so of primaries, then welding tubes to them to a log style collector. This seems to be the best for room, and there's really not much difference in power made or spool time between this and header-style turbo manifolds.

-Thomas

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 08:26 PM
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hey man just throwing this out there but what about a set up like sts? mabye. not sure if thats the company, but they did a remote mount set up in place of the mufflers. I saw one on a vette. very little mods to the engine bay. just a thought. don

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 08:28 PM
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i don't know but just throwing this out there. are the exhaust ports symetrical? so that you could just bolt the manifold on upside down?
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thomas thats what i ment about cutting up the old style manifold, but i wont be putting in a removable pipe anymore. The remote kits are ok i guess but that is way to much piping for me. i would much rather do a custom setup the way it should be done. If im not mistaken the ports are symmetrical but we run back into clearance issues with the strut towers.

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 10:03 PM
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k, throw em away get an mII suspension. i would if you could order some header flangers and make a custom pair of headers that will fit. that ought to flow better
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 10:19 PM
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Im sure SSAutochrome could sell you some "flangers" or could just have some machined from a gasket template at a metal shop. Then just weld on whatever tubes you desire, as long as they fit.
-Thomas

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-08-2007, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thomas the flanges wont be hard to get my hands on. they are all over ebay and such. i think im going to cut up the old school mani's and work from there for now. maybe ill have something goo to show for it by the end of winter or so. the garage will be taken up this weekend with an alero that has a lower intake leak. 200 extra in the pocket for this one. prob throw it all into the bird build

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-08-2007, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroRain
Thomas the flanges wont be hard to get my hands on. they are all over ebay and such. i think im going to cut up the old school mani's and work from there for now. maybe ill have something goo to show for it by the end of winter or so. the garage will be taken up this weekend with an alero that has a lower intake leak. 200 extra in the pocket for this one. prob throw it all into the bird build
make sure you buy the metal gaskets for that 3.4 or you'll be doing it again. I would have charged more than 200 profit. Those things suck.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-08-2007, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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you mean metal intakes? i have always seen them done with the plastic and rubber ones

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Well thomas i took your advice and picked up the metal ones. really was a pita but it will be alright because the lady ended up paying me 4 for the job. started on it sat at about noon. 1 rolls around and im out on the frozen lake with my dad riding are snowmobiles. 5 rolls around and im done for the day so i go home after an hour at most working on the car. sunday i kicked it into high gear and started at 10 didnt get to the car until noon because i had to mess with the garage furnace first. 7 creeps on up and im just cleaning up everything. finished the intake, oil change, coolant flush, and cleaning in 8 hours. not bad 400 for 8 hours of work.

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-01-2007, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thomas in the pic you posted is that a carbed 5.0? or a efi with the intake off?

1996 Ford Thunderbird LX EFI Swapped 311 5spd "TT 5oh project"
1998 Ford Taurus SE 24v Duratec auto "DD"
1966 Ford Galaxy 500 352 Cruise-O-Matic "Restoration Car"

We don't just dream about fast toys, we build them!
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