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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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no boost

hello all,
thought i'd start a new post to start anew. i got a new boost/vacuum gauge and plumbed it into where the old line went on the vacuum tee under the hood. the weird thing is it is showing 10-20 inches of vacuum at idle. when i stab the throttle to impart boost i goes to zero. i have plugged the ports going to the boost controller and looked at all the vacuum lines for cracks. just a question though...to get true boost numbers what port should i tap into, the tee on the intercooler?.....10 to 12 pound of vacuum sounds like a massive vacuum leak, right? the engine idles smoothly except it is idling @ 1100 rpm. i appreciate any help....L24
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 11:05 PM
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it's completely normal for a 2.3 turbo to pull 15-20 inches of vacuum at idle... up to 25 inches upon deceleration. with no load on the motor (i.e. you're in neutral or park) and you rev the motor, you won't see any boost... it'll come up to zero, but unless you've got a 2 step, you're not going to build much boost... maybe a pound or so, if that. you'll see a pretty accurate reading from any vacuum source... the tree is where most people tap into (including myself). sounds to me like you're just fine. check your timing and possibly turn down your idle screw or even clean you idle air control valve to lower your idle down just a touch.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 11:46 PM
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Yep Turboranger91 is right you won't build boost sitting still. You have to put a load on the motor. Then boost should come up. If still no boost sounds like you have a plugged exhaust or cat. Also check your tps to make sure it is set correctly that can also effect idle.

Flyin with the bird's or runnin with the cat's either is better than ridin horses!
84 Turbo Coupe 2.3T, 88 intercooler/intake setup, T3-4 hyrbrid .60 trim, PC1 ECU, 35lbs/hr injectors, runnin 15psi
94 cougar xr7 inprocess of getting body fixed gonna be the new daliy, Then the turbo coupe get piant & body
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 08:29 AM
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i second both above post but you could also have a stuck waste gate. my first 88tc when purchased was a great runner but only made a pound or two of boost under wot. ended up pulling the ic off and had to free up the gate. just some food for thought

1996 Ford Thunderbird LX EFI Swapped 311 5spd "TT 5oh project"
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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rog,
turbo stuff is brand new to me having been a 5.0 guy. i've been running the car on jacks so what you say makes sense now. should the wastegate arm be able to move freely by hand? i tried yesterday and it wont budge.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 12:01 PM
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yea you should be able to move it with little resistance. sounds jammed to me

1996 Ford Thunderbird LX EFI Swapped 311 5spd "TT 5oh project"
1998 Ford Taurus SE 24v Duratec auto "DD"
1966 Ford Galaxy 500 352 Cruise-O-Matic "Restoration Car"

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroRain View Post
yea you should be able to move it with little resistance. sounds jammed to me
Uh...
It takes a considerable amount of human force to move the wastegate rod. The actuator has plenty of resistance - 10-15 psi is more powerful than you might think.
I've worked with the wastegate on both the Garrett T3 and the IHI turbos. Both wastegate rods require two hands and a lot of force to move.

Try pumping an air compressor up to 15 psi and shoot the compressed air into the wastegate actuator line.

As far as the boost gauge is concerned, I ran my line right into the vacuum tree - just as you did. I always thought the stock boost gauge wouldn't be very accurate, just as the other Ford analog gauges tend to be. As it turns out, it was pretty darn accurate.
No matter. I like the way my boost gauge looks.


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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 01:41 PM
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hmm mine didnt have two much resistance on it. pushed open moderetly easy once i got a grip on it. and my tc never reached more then 8 psi. even with the fuel on premium

1996 Ford Thunderbird LX EFI Swapped 311 5spd "TT 5oh project"
1998 Ford Taurus SE 24v Duratec auto "DD"
1966 Ford Galaxy 500 352 Cruise-O-Matic "Restoration Car"

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 02:58 PM
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i'm willing to bet that the majority of his issues are due to the fact that he's running the car on jack stands... no load whatsoever. i'd put the car on the ground and check before i start playing with the actuator and whatnot.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 04:10 PM
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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I am putting the cart before the horse i guess! Since the car has been sitting for so long i put it on jacks to go through everything first(safety as much as reliability and performance) so i will test the car with a load on it later. At hand is a more serious issue....I pulled the A4LD out today to replace the seal but since I spent all that time and effort I figured I would rebuild it. I read on TurboFord about an off-road kit that makes it a full manual valve body but i can't find anything on-line about it. I also read that later versions (IE 4.0 explorers) were pretty reliable. Can I upgrade mine to 4.0 explorer specs and what sources have the parts? I am contacting a local tranny place tomorrow to see what they can do but i would like some external expert info so I dont look like an a$$. And before the T-5 swap guys ask....not now. To be honest the car wont see heavy modding anytime soon other than the stage 1 or 2 stuff as I am retiring from the air force soon and gotta find a REAL job

L24
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-14-2007, 10:51 PM
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honestly, i'm not much of an a4ld guy. you should just swap to a t5 and call it good.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007, 07:01 PM
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im gonna second that. when i recieved my bird she had less then 100g with all the paper work on filter/ fluid changes "every 25-30g" the tranny ended up going at about 110. swapped in the 5 and she was stronger then ever

1996 Ford Thunderbird LX EFI Swapped 311 5spd "TT 5oh project"
1998 Ford Taurus SE 24v Duratec auto "DD"
1966 Ford Galaxy 500 352 Cruise-O-Matic "Restoration Car"

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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$1200-$1400 for a rebuild thats twice as much as i paid for the car! ok,ok
maybe that 5 speed aint looking so expensive now. I think NATO has a good how-to writeup, i just gotta get my hands on a 5-speed...will i need to change the computer? which part number should i be looking for? Also i was told that any T-5 will fit but i need to change the input shaft to a fourbanger...true? o yeah, what about the crossmember....is that different from am auto?
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2007, 04:22 PM
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there are a couple different ways you can go about it. you can swap in a hydrolic clutch setup from an 87-88 (i just realized that i don't know what year your car is), or you can go with a cable setup. personally, i prefer the cable... it's much more simple. don't waste your time swapping input shafts, as it's pretty much pointless. just find a 4 cylinder t5. one from a mustang, tc, xr-7, whatever. just as long as it's a 4 cyl. t5. then you just need the pedal assembly and the quadrant. the crossmember should be no different at all.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2007, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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it's an 88. i would prefer the cable set-up like my mustang had, then get the firewall adjuster and BBK quadrant. Will the stock driveshaft work as well? Mine has an enormous dampener on the front unlike my mustang.....Is it balanced differently than a 5.0 mustang? As far as the T-5's go whats the diff between 4/8 cyl versions besides the bellhousing and outputshaft? I'll start scanning the junkyards soon then.
By the way i have an A4LD auto for sale...cheap.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2007, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by lakenheath24 View Post
it's an 88. i would prefer the cable set-up like my mustang had, then get the firewall adjuster and BBK quadrant. Will the stock driveshaft work as well? Mine has an enormous dampener on the front unlike my mustang.....Is it balanced differently than a 5.0 mustang? As far as the T-5's go whats the diff between 4/8 cyl versions besides the bellhousing and outputshaft? I'll start scanning the junkyards soon then.
By the way i have an A4LD auto for sale...cheap.
the driveshaft should be the same length... someone correct me if i'm wrong on that one. as far as the tranny itself, the only difference is the input shaft, not the output. that's why the 4 cyl guys who want to run a v8 t5 have to get a special pilot bushing (not bearing) to use it.
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