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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-29-2011, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Age: 66
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Need TurboCoupe guru!

Just got home with the replacement for the '93 SuperCoupe I just sold.
It's an '85 T-Bird TurboCoupe, and I don't know very much about them.
I need a real TurboCoupe guru who's located within an hour or maybe two
of Columbus, Ohio to get it checked out, tuned up, etc.!
If anybody has any helpful information on this, please let me know.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jeff Parker
Columbus, Ohio
jjparker1 @ wowway dot com

Just bought '94 SuperCoupe 5-speed.
Pearl White w/Gray leather.
122K, and at Dave Dalke's 1-16-09
for head gaskets, a little suspension, and DEFINITELY
some exhaust work!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 09:44 AM
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I'm certainly not a 'guru' on them and never owned a TC but I transplanted 2 TC/SVO setups into Mustang LX's, owned an SVO, and built two XR4ti's for my kids.
I can look at them and make obvious observations
And that's my main suggestion.. cross check into appropriate local groups. You're kin with SVO, Merkur XR4 / Cosworth Sierra owners. I think there's a few of those folks in Cols

My first advice: Replace the turbo oil feed line with new or at least known clear line.
Second: Mobil 1 ONLY.. NEVER dino, You dont need 'better' but you need that for a minimum.
Third: Pull the TFI ignition module {side of distributor} and inspect for copious greasy grease.. should be NO 'cake'. No 'Wells' brand.. use the Motorcraft part for replacement
Fourth: Never Bosch Plat plugs.. Autolite or Motorcraft.

This advice is basic for a 2.3 turbo 'driver' car.. meaning not performance or modded. That's why the Merkur/Sierra and SVO nuts in addition to folks on here are a great resource.
For instance.. you see an advert for a totaled 86 SVO for cheap, you beg borrow steal the money and go look at it on the chance it was well cared for and, if so, buy it on the spot for your first upgrade.. the engine/turbo/EEC.

Last edited by pettyfog; 07-01-2011 at 02:31 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Age: 66
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Thanks!

pettyfog,
regarding TFI, are you saying there should be lots of
good fresh grease, but NO "cake" or dried up caked on grease?
Do you know the Motorcraft part# for this item?

Also, I'm trying to locate a set of Motorcraft AWSF32 plugs.
Green Sales has plenty at their new Texas parts source, but the
folks are on vacation? so can't ship for a while. The guy called
back to advise he could ship me a set of AWSF32C, which is:
DARN, I JUST CHECKED THE OWNERS MANUAL AND THIS IS THE
PLUG NUMBER IT SHOWS FOR THE 2.3L TURBO ENGINE!!
WOOHOO!! Looks like I'll be ordering a set, might even get 2
sets since the shipping would probably be the same. They're only
$2.50 ea. so $20 certainly won't break the bank.

I'll check into locating a new oil feed line.
I haven't bought any oil for my first oil change, so Mobil 1 it will be!
Also I assume the Motorcraft FL300S filter is probably about as good
as it gets.
Thanks loads for your info!!
Jeff

Just bought '94 SuperCoupe 5-speed.
Pearl White w/Gray leather.
122K, and at Dave Dalke's 1-16-09
for head gaskets, a little suspension, and DEFINITELY
some exhaust work!
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJP90SC View Post
pettyfog,
regarding TFI, are you saying there should be lots of
good fresh grease, but NO "cake" or dried up caked on grease?
Do you know the Motorcraft part# for this item?
That's right. Dried heat sink grease is an insulator
Quote:
Also, I'm trying to locate a set of Motorcraft AWSF32 plugs.
Green Sales has plenty at their new Texas parts source, but the
folks are on vacation? so can't ship for a while. The guy called
back to advise he could ship me a set of AWSF32C, which is:
DARN, I JUST CHECKED THE OWNERS MANUAL AND THIS IS THE
PLUG NUMBER IT SHOWS FOR THE 2.3L TURBO ENGINE!!
WOOHOO!! Looks like I'll be ordering a set, might even get 2
sets since the shipping would probably be the same. They're only
$2.50 ea. so $20 certainly won't break the bank.
I tried several brands for the turbo application.. incl Bosch plats-didnt get around the block with them, and I tried two different times. My choice in plugs: Motorcraft, AutoLite and AC Delco in that order. That's entirely subjective of course.
- I think part of the problems with brands that aren't OE is that their 'engineers' didnt rate for compression ratio {which is lower than N/A on the 2.3 turbo}, instead looking at full load performance. Problem I had with Bosch was with low-load missfire on idle and cruise. I didnt feel misses at acceleration, but why take a chance!
Quote:
I'll check into locating a new oil feed line.
I haven't bought any oil for my first oil change, so Mobil 1 it will be!
Also I assume the Motorcraft FL300S filter is probably about as good
as it gets.
Thanks loads for your info!!
Jeff
Actually I used Purolator at the time {ten + years ago}... Mustang / Ford groups carried extensive filter reviews and AT THAT TIME the Motorcraft Purolator better filters were one and the same and built well. Flow / surface area and quality construction is more important than filtering down to 3 microns or whatever.... I mean the freakin system IS closed and you're not breathing in gravel, like the old days.
If you search using 'oil filter reviews', you'll find some pretty strong opinions out there: This is about the most comprehensive and current one I could find.
You may want to rethink the Motorcraft choice based on this.
Oil Filters Revealed

Want a scathing report on certain brands? there's a few also show from that search.

Also:
http://www.efficient-mileage.com/ins...il-filter.html
http://www.efficient-mileage.com/engine-oil.html

Both those articles are filled with hyperbole but the basic reasoning is fairly sound. I have no opinion on his recommendation on using magnets around the filter. If you want to, fine.
But the most likely source of ferrous metals in a well built, well lubricated engine is the rings and cylinder walls. Given that, what do you think of the case where you can pop a rod and piston out of a block with 150K miles using nothing but a box knife to cut the carbon, and the cylinder still shows swirl?
The REAL deal is the ash {carbonizing} point of the oil. See for yourself.. do the old Mobil 1 frying pan test. That's all you need to know for your turbo car. Or for an engine that's had glycol contamination eroding bearings... but that's another story.
- ALSO reason for skepticism for that last filter report is his reference to the 'bypass' function. As far as I know, ALL oil pumps have a bypass which 'regulates' maximum engine oil pressure. For a filter to do that duty there needs to be TWO seals, as it would connect to three different passages. Bypass in a filter means it bypasses the filter media when there's enough difference in pressure so as to indicate media clogging.

Put it this way, I have biases stemming from the eighties when a very highly advertised filter brand was found by a Mustang freak to have metal shavings in them. When I read that I went to the store and opened several and found the same thing in one. The clerk saw me and made me stop but one was enough.

Same goes with oil.. the only dino oil I would put in my cars is Valvoline after experiences I've had with 'very highly advertised available on every corner' brands.

{I once got threatened with a lawsuit for naming the two geographically referenced brands so I wont do that again}

I learn more about cars every day!
I do it just because I still want to know HOW and WHY!!! Quit learning=die. Be informed as to WHAT, rather than learn,=brain-dead already.
__________________________________________
1993 Silver LX 3.8L My Bravadiva's 'go store-fetch me parts' girl

Last edited by pettyfog; 07-04-2011 at 07:20 PM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 09:02 AM
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Location: Houston Clear Lake
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The 85-86 Turbo Coupes are the nicest looking birds.
I would love to have another that had no rust. (they like to rust under the rear window).

I just sold a ton of old parts I had for mine. Had all sorts of things like oem door hinges, door unlock plates (great condition), etc. Tired of hoping to find qnother bird, so I moved on.

95 SC 5-speed The Toy in Storage now.
95 SC Auto Newest storage queen.
91 Festiva 1.3L baby 5 speed
03 Crown Vic Sport 4.6... driver
10 Flex Brick Twin Turbos
*Rodney*
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 09:34 AM
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I owned a 87 and a 88 TC and other than running synthetic oil which wont coke in the turbocharger so badly, add yourself the 87/88 TC hood & intercooler if you can find them, the non-intercooled setup really generates a lot of heat under the hood. I would recommend running the car at idle for at least a minute after you stop if you have been driving it 'spirited' to also keep down on the turbo coking with burned oil.

Quite fun cars, easy to work on.

2011 Dodge Durango Crew 5.7L HEMI

2001 Volkswagen Beetle GLX 1.8T
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-24-2011, 06:07 PM
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i have 3 TC's . all 87-88's except one 83.
they are excellent cars when taken car of.
run only motorcraft wires, they are very picky about ignition components. i run autolite cooper 764's with out any issues.

you can make the car real quick. add an intercooler . the 87-88 intercooler is fine, but a front mount is best. then get a rick gillis boost valve.
boostvalve.com you can get inter cooler kits from stiingerperformace.com
get a full 3in exhuast from stinger. stingerperformance.com

i run semi synthetic in my 88 and dino oil in my 87,, the 88 is modded and the 87 is stock. i get either motorcraft, purolator, or napa oil filters.
i run 15w40 summer and 10w30 winter.

any other questions feel free to ask.

natomessageboard.com is full of information
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Brian J Larkin
1988 Tbird TC 5spd. few bolt ons, 308k miles
1989 Cougar XR7 AOD 110k
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