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Lower Control Arms - F/R

920 views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  tbirdtess 
#1 ·
FSM says to use new nut on bolts that hold arm to sub frame when installing new front lower control arm. Is this really necessary?

With the front, and the rear lower control arms as well, am I correct in thinking the proper way to torque the arms after installation is to have the vehicles' wheels on the ground. Is this correct? This seems like it will be difficult to do, as I do not have ramps to put the vehicle on.

Also, it was very difficult getting the rear lower control arm bolts loosened; I already had my differential removed for replacement, and I don't see how I can get torque on those bolts with it installed - floor clearance is the problem here. With the differential removed I had room to get a cheater pipe on my breaker bar, but this does not appear possible without putting the car on a drive up lift. I don't see any good option other than having the car towed to a mechanic when I have it all back together, and have them torque all suspension bolts - anyone have any advice/tricks or alternative methods?
 
#2 ·
The car will need to be aligned anyway, tighten them up and bring it to an alignment shop.
 
#3 ·
So just torque everything while its in the air?

Unrelated question, what kind of grease should I use when installing new rubber swaybar bushings?
 
#4 ·
No, tighten them with weight on the tires. It might be difficult given your workspace, but it isn't impossible.
 
#5 ·
Torque

Hello

Well I have done it 2 ways.

While in the air(jack stands) I place a jack under the lower ball joint raise untill the weight is off that corners stand. Torque!
Repeat as needed.

OR

When I am checking toe & camber(string & ruler) I put the car on Building blocks.
That gives you about an additional 8in.

If you torque when the suspension is unloaded the car will act funny.
The rubber bushings are holding the car up.

:D
 
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