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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-09-2007, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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mystery trans fluid leak

after swapping my transmissions i went through the usual repairing leaks as i go and I have one left that I cannot seem to locate. Its dripping around the trans pan. I cannot seem to locate the exact leak as whenever i jack the car up it stops (even with the car running) its very very slow, pretty much when i go for a drive and stop for a while there will be about a 6" wide spot underneath the car. the trans line connectors going into the trans are dry. for the most part it seems like the wet is around the trans pan bolts. they are just wet mostly towards the front. all of them are torqued tight. the pan is a deep sump aluminum from supercoupe performance that i had on my 94 trans and it was leak free. the new trans is a 2000 mustang. is it possible that the new seal is crap? thanks, Dave
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-09-2007, 06:44 PM
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Did you put a bead of RTV around the o-ring on the dipstick tube?

If not then go do it.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-09-2007, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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no i didn't, i just put a lil silicon to help lube it up then that was it. is there much i can do if the bolt that holds the dipstick to the head is broke off? i've got the tube tied in place so it can't move but it woudl be nice to have it perfect
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-09-2007, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coggonobrien View Post
no i didn't, i just put a lil silicon to help lube it up then that was it. is there much i can do if the bolt that holds the dipstick to the head is broke off? i've got the tube tied in place so it can't move but it woudl be nice to have it perfect
Like Darrin said the leak is probably coming from the dip stick o-ring, Get a new o-ring, seal it good and get the mount bolt repaired. You cannot just tie tubes to the engine because vibration will moved them no matter how good you tie them.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-09-2007, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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is it possible to extract the bolt without removing the head or engine?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 09:37 AM
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I have the same leak, had it for a while and thought maybe it was leaking out of the pan gasket. Just put on a new pan and gasket saturday and it still leaks the same place. So time for a new O-ring. Do I need to drain any fluid off, or just jack up the passenger font? One bolt holding it in? I assume you can remove the bolt, pull the tube up, new O-ring with some RTV and back together.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 11:29 AM
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sry guys i can't help you, i took out my auto and never looked back, m5 for me


uhh, the bolt is in the side of the tranys not the engine, no need to rip in to it

yeah dusty, jack the passenger side front up, bust that nut, jerk the tube, slip on the new rubber, lube it up, and reinsert ~presto complete!

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
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bust that nut, jerk the tube, slip on the new rubber, lube it up, and reinsert ~presto complete!
Wow....i think you might have it a little out of order
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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the stud itself that holds the tube to the cylinder head broke off clean with the head so that's my problem
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 06:32 PM
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I had a simular problem. The cork gasket would not seal to the aluminum pan correctly. I then bought a Ford replacment gasket and that corrected the problem. I also found that the tranny holes were stripped a bit on two bolt holes. Could not tighten the bolts 100% at those two locations but the Ford replacement gasket still worked. Even so a 1/4" longer bolt will still fit and run up tight, which would have been the corect fix, but I did not do that and the pan gasket to this day does not leak. But tomorrow never knows.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-10-2007, 08:24 PM
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Confirmed the leak is from the O-Ring. I just sprayed some PB Blaster on the nut. It is attached to the engine. I will give it a try tomorrow. I can see if if breaks off you would be SOL getting the broken stud out. Looks like it will be a b*tch to even get a ratchet up there and turn it. Cake if you had the engine and transmission out.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-12-2007, 09:24 AM
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Put in the new O-ring last night. No more leak sitting overnight. I will drive it and park it to be sure. O-ring was flat and stiff. I did not do the RTV as the fluid was seeping out the hole when I pulled the tube. Tried to get it in with just trans fluid on it, but didn't want to go. Used a dab of silicone grease on the O-ring and it popped right in. Reaching the bolt is kind of a PIA, but I have had this small leak for 3 years. It had the leak when Alan pulled my transmission to put in the new converter. We thought it was maybe coming from the front seal, so he replaced that. I should have put a new O-ring on the tube while he was working on the transmission. Bottom line, anytime you pull the tube get a new o-ring. These things are cheap and if you search the internet, this is a source of hard to find tranny leaks on many Ford products.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 04:24 PM
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How about an update? Still no leaks? I've had the same leak for years now-- replace the o-ring, the pan gasket, and still it leaks. Maybe I need a thicker o-ring...

PJ

btw: I doesn't necessarily look like the leak is coming from the tube--- the pas gasket is new, yet the leak seems to come from right below where the tube is...

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Last edited by PJ-4.2L; 09-25-2007 at 04:28 PM. Reason: btw
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 09:51 AM
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Just drove the car 1800 miles last week. No leaks at all. I bought the $2 o-ring from Ford.

My leak looked like it was also coming from the pan. It comes out the bottom of the tube and drips over on the pan.
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