Solid V6 Engine/Trans Mounts? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Solid V6 Engine/Trans Mounts?

I want to make some solid mounts for my engine and trans. Has anyone done this, or am i gonna have to pioneer this?

Anyone know the height of the stock mounts? I'm wanting to do the 'hockey puck' type deal.

Thanks for any help.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 04:15 PM
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Chuck W makes solid poly motor mounts. Don't know of anyone that has done a trans mount yet.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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i dont want to buy them, i want to make them. it's much cheaper that way. i may have to mess with it a bit.

oh yeah, chris i sent you an email back on the cooler.

1994 Thunderbird - 2000 4.2L M5R2 now has 55k

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 05:21 PM
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I hope you aren't planning on "solid" solid mounts, as in just steel brackets for instance.

You could have the motor mounts solid, but don't ever do that with the tranny mount. Leave that one rubberized, even if the motor mounts aren't. If you put a solid steel mount on the tranny, you'll crack the case.....not good at all.

Just a heads-up.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 06:05 PM
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Thomas is selling some custom mounts for a 6 that should satisfy what your looking for. They are half solid half poly mounts.

heres the link
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...ght=3.8+mounts

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-24-2008, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Thunderbird XX View Post
I hope you aren't planning on "solid" solid mounts, as in just steel brackets for instance.

You could have the motor mounts solid, but don't ever do that with the tranny mount. Leave that one rubberized, even if the motor mounts aren't. If you put a solid steel mount on the tranny, you'll crack the case.....not good at all.

Just a heads-up.
did not think of that. but i've seen solid trans mounts before, i do believe...

all i know is that the OEM type mount has got to get out of there. i hate it. it's a POS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Splattered View Post
Thomas is selling some custom mounts for a 6 that should satisfy what your looking for. They are half solid half poly mounts.

heres the link
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...ght=3.8+mounts
as for the mounts that Thomas has, they look nice and i'm sure they are exactly what i'm looking for but thats way more than i'd like to put into this project. I think i can make them myself (albeit a bit different) for much less. Anyone have any suggestions for the trans if solid is not the way to go? And will hockey pucks be way too stiff for the motor?

this is just something i want to tinker around with.

1994 Thunderbird - 2000 4.2L M5R2 now has 55k

1995 Thunderbird - 2002 Alum 4.6L SVO - Awaiting transplant... (Parts donor)

1996 Cougar - 2004 3.9L 4R70W
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-24-2008, 07:32 PM
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I do know a lot of people use hockey pucks for body lifts on their 4x4s. Not sure if that is a good thing or not, but plenty of people use 'em.

I'd venture to say that if they are indeed stiff enough to use as body/frame spacers, they should be fine for engine mounts if you want to go that way. Maybe some others have more insight on hockey pucks....I've never even touched one let alone inspected it's properties. FWIW, the 4.6 seems to be one smoooth running motor with proper tune. Solid mounts shouldn't be a problem even in DD status.

But spose I should ask this: Why do you feel you need solid mounts for your car?
Lots of torque? Worn out stock mounts?

Addressing those two possible scenarios, I can say that the cars I've had that I felt needed solid mounts only received a solid mount on the driver's side anyway; the rest stayed with stock specs and no more trouble came from that kind of setup. For instance, I used to break the driver's side (stock) motor mount on my 78 Cutlass every weekend I went out to play. Had to hammer out the dents in the hood that resulted from the motor mount breaking on the holeshot more times than should be legally allowed.....not to mention having to baby the thing back home with tail firmly tucked between legs.
What I ended up doing (after being told by the local salvage yard that the one they are selling me this time was the very last available mount they had for my car) was to make that one solid. That problem was then solved once and for all.

The engine stayed put, the remaining stock mounts on pass. side and tranny still allowed my teeth to stay put, and Camaros were sent to go lie down by their dish and keep quiet.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Thunderbird XX View Post
I hope you aren't planning on "solid" solid mounts, as in just steel brackets for instance.

You could have the motor mounts solid, but don't ever do that with the tranny mount. Leave that one rubberized, even if the motor mounts aren't. If you put a solid steel mount on the tranny, you'll crack the case.....not good at all.

Just a heads-up.
how do you figure that? theres tons of mustang drag cars with solid mounts all the way around using the same 4R70w case/tailshaft housing our cars have. IMO with solid metal mounts on the motor and the stock or rubber one on the trans sounds like a good way to damage the k-member or even block.

-Matt
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
how do you figure that? theres tons of mustang drag cars with solid mounts all the way around using the same 4R70w case/tailshaft housing our cars have. IMO with solid metal mounts on the motor and the stock or rubber one on the trans sounds like a good way to damage the k-member or even block.
I'm simply trying to help steer towards the "better safe than sorry" policy here. Sure plenty of people solidmount the three points. But why? There is absolutely nothing to be gained by using a solid tranny mount over a flexible one and chances of cracking the tranny case/tailshaft increases a hundredfold over the flexible one. It's all about torsional stress and leverage.
The powertrain tries to turn over on itself under power, due to Newton's Law.
The engine mounts are spaced at a much greater distance from the crankshaft centerline than the tranny mount is. Plus, there is two of them; one on each side of the block. They will use that leverage advantage to hold things in place much more effectively than the shorter distance of the tranny mount-to-centerline.
In my previous Cutlass example (albeit a somewhat extreme one), if I had a solid mount on the tranny when the drivers side mount broke, fixing the resulting dents in my hood would've been the very least of my worries.

The tranny mount is only there to support the rear of the tranny....not to hold off any kind of torsional stress. It will need to "give" to tolerate the torsional stress from the powertrain itself, normal vibrations, and chassis flex.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-27-2008, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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haha, no my 3.8l isn't ripping up pavement with the torque. i just want it to have a hard, stiff launch. i'm not gonna be drag racing though. just looking to stiffen it up. what alternatives for trans mounts are there other than the OEM type?

1994 Thunderbird - 2000 4.2L M5R2 now has 55k

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-27-2008, 04:19 PM
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As far as direct replacement goes, the only alternative is a solid rubber mount.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-27-2008, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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i think that will work fine. where do i get one? just a parts store?

1994 Thunderbird - 2000 4.2L M5R2 now has 55k

1995 Thunderbird - 2002 Alum 4.6L SVO - Awaiting transplant... (Parts donor)

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-27-2008, 05:31 PM
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Yes, most places should be able to get it for you.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2008, 01:01 AM
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I got solid motor mounts, I bought them at Napa. The only realy difference is you can definitely feel more engine vibration and less engine movement with solid mounts.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 03:27 PM
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Rigid steel rear transmission mounts = cracked case.

I used to race circle track with small block Chevy engines/drivelines. We did use rigid steel engine mounts and rigid mid mounts that mated between the rear of the iron engine block and the front of the aluminum transmission bellhousing. The rear mounts, however, were either rubber or missing entirely. 99% of the racers used this type of setup and never broke either, though a lot of the homemade mount-to-frame brackets didn't hold up so well (either the result of poor design or poor welding). Those who ran a rigid rear mount without the mid mount (equivalent to the MN-12 setup) snapped tailshafts until they changed their design or changed their hobby.

Solid rubber mounts would reduce flex and help transmit power slightly more quickly as a result. The stock ones are price competitive unless you price your time and labor way below minimum wage. The tradeoff in switching is in increased vibration in the chassis.

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