2001-2003 Mustang 4R70W Trans & Torque Converter For $300 - Reasonable Price? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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2001-2003 Mustang 4R70W Trans & Torque Converter For $300 - Reasonable Price?

I have a '97 T-Bird sport with a 4.6 liter V-8 that has 162,000 miles on it and I am currently experiencing what I believe is moderate-to-severe case of torque converter shudder, and I want desperately to cure that problem! I have a chance to purchase a 4R70W trans & torque converter from a 2001-2003 Mustang for $300. The person selling it is a tech at a L/M dealer and he says he replaced a customer's trans under some type of warranty and that this unit was the core. He claims the trans/torque converter has about 30,000 miles on it and that the trans has had the overdrive band replaced.

Is this a reasonable price for this trans/torque converter?

My goal is to have this trans modified to fit my T-Bird, slightly strengthened and installed in my car by Alan at DirtyDog performance (as I live in an apt and have no place to do this work myself). I am also probably going to buy a new Mark VIII converter & flex plate from DirtyDog and have that installed at the same time. I am trying to eliminate the torque converter shudder and I am also not too confident in the trans that is currently in my car, especially considering my car has 162,000 miles on the odometer and I have no idea if anything was ever done to it!

My car is a daily driver and I don't drive it like a race car, however I do, from time to time, get on it a little hard.

Dennis
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 10:21 PM
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That's a good price, alot of the upgrades will already be in a 01+ trans

-Matt
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 08:22 AM
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Before you do this check your plugs/wires.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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My plugs were replaced about 6 months ago with Autolites, as were my plug wires (with Motorcraft wires) - it made no difference at all in the shudder. I also replaced my EGR valve (also Motorcraft). The shudder has just continued to get slightly worse since then.

I am convinced it's the torque converter, especially since the shudder ceases the instant I touch the brake pedal just enough to turn on the brake lights.

Dennis
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 10:20 PM
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Test your wires first it may be them.

Also another test, and neither me or tccoa are responsible if anything goes wrong, but:

Put your car in drive keep foot all the way on the brake, and hit the gas until the rpm range of the shudder, if it shudders during this it is most likely a ignition/electrical problem. It could be an ignition coil.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CougarChaserXR7 View Post
Test your wires first it may be them.

Also another test, and neither me or tccoa are responsible if anything goes wrong, but:

Put your car in drive keep foot all the way on the brake, and hit the gas until the rpm range of the shudder, if it shudders during this it is most likely a ignition/electrical problem. It could be an ignition coil.
As I mentioned earlier, my plugs (Autolites) & my wires (Motorcraft) are less than 6 months old. My coil packs (BOTH of them) were also replaced at that time (with Motorcraft).

Dennis
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 11:19 PM
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Get the transmission like Matt said that's a good price .

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 11:21 PM
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Agreed, I'd grab that even without issues. Low mile 99+ 4R's are ideal for upgrades or just replacement

-Matt
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2010, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderChecken View Post
Get the transmission like Matt said that's a good price .
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Agreed, I'd grab that even without issues. Low mile 99+ 4R's are ideal for upgrades or just replacement
I will be buying it on Friday, as both myself and the seller are off work that day. Then, when I get enough money in a few more weeks, I'll be taking it & the car down to DirtyDog where Alan will do a few things to it, then install it & one his Mark VIII torque converters & flexplates into the T-Bird.

Hopefully, I will then be able to kiss that damn torque converter shudder goodbye once and for all!! Man, that shudder is freaking annoying!!

Dennis
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmw_4814 View Post
I'll be taking it & the car down to DirtyDog where Alan will do a few things to it, then install it & one his Mark VIII torque converters & flexplates into the T-Bird.
I think you are going to be really happy on the drive home!

A jmod on a newer tranny is a wonderful thing; adding a tune will make it snap like a manual, lol.

Talk to him about the tru cool tranny coolers like I bought. No fade next summer will be nice...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 04:37 PM
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In the northern climate a tru cool may be a bit much considering a markVIII converter shouldn't really produce a ton of heat. A hayden 679 routed before the radiator should help to keep both engine temperatures and transmission temperatures at a normal operating range. A 180 thermostat will help as well. I prefer to run them running 3/8 lines however I am going to have to maill order fittings the parts store fittings are getting hard to find lately for some reason.
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