aod into a 4r mn12 - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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aod into a 4r mn12

before we get into the aod vs 4r pissing match, i have a built aod sitting in storage that will be going into the 95. my current 4r has water in it, so its going south.

disregard the eec/wiring issue for now. what has to be done to get the aod to work?

i believe i need to use the aod driveshaft and tranny mount bracket.

i assume i will ditch the 4r throttle/cruise cables and use the aod ones.

how will i get the 4r shifter to work with the aod?

what else am i missing?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 05:11 PM
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Problem #1 you have to make it bolt up, you can use an early 4.6 block.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g View Post
Problem #1 you have to make it bolt up, you can use an early 4.6 block.
Alan
Shouldn't be a problem if he's bolting the AOD up to a 3.8, should it?

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 06:28 PM
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Dunno why I was thinking 4.6, on a 3.8 it will bolt on, flexplate is fine too. the important piece of the puzzle is the tv cable parts, just put the 4r extension housing on and use the 4r driveshaft. TV cable is critical, if you get it wrong your aod will become a paperweight quickly.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g View Post
Dunno why I was thinking 4.6, on a 3.8 it will bolt on, flexplate is fine too. the important piece of the puzzle is the tv cable parts, just put the 4r extension housing on and use the 4r driveshaft. TV cable is critical, if you get it wrong your aod will become a paperweight quickly.
Alan
same thing as the tailshaft housing? it will bolt onto the aod case? interesting.

how about getting the shifter to function?

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 02:48 PM
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Or just run a driveshaft for a 89-93 AOD MN12. The engine mounting locations didn't change from 93-94 so if you run the regular length AOD, the stock 89-93 driveshaft will be the right length.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 03:11 PM
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I don't know what you will have to do with the shifter, it may work as is. The driveshaft I would just change the housing, you get better stuff and don't have to buy anything at all.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 04:40 PM
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Wouldn't a constant pressure or manual valve body remove the TV issue?

If all else fails get a bigger hammer!

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 05:31 PM
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Yes, but isn't the idea of this to do it inexpensively? if money is not the issue fix the 4r.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 06:35 PM
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Well then need brackets form a MN-12 (tranny and TB) for the TV and the cable. Assume get them all at pull-a-part. Though they may be a bit hard to come by since Dan(silverfox) doesn't even have them

If all else fails get a bigger hammer!

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